New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
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Thanks I have two examples of them
AIT Racing Body Kits : 2004-2011 Mazda RX8 Front Bumpers | Body Kits & Aerodynamics
this one says that their front bumpers will fit 04-10. By the pictures I can tell for sure that some of them are series 1 and I'm not sure about the others.
AEM Cold Air Induction System: Mazda RX8 2004-09*|*Air Intake*|*Mazda RX-8*|*Mazdaspeed Parts - Mazda Speed Store
This one says this induction system will only fit 04-09
Which years will these actually fit?
AIT Racing Body Kits : 2004-2011 Mazda RX8 Front Bumpers | Body Kits & Aerodynamics
this one says that their front bumpers will fit 04-10. By the pictures I can tell for sure that some of them are series 1 and I'm not sure about the others.
AEM Cold Air Induction System: Mazda RX8 2004-09*|*Air Intake*|*Mazda RX-8*|*Mazdaspeed Parts - Mazda Speed Store
This one says this induction system will only fit 04-09
Which years will these actually fit?
Thanks, adding.
I have a question, couldn't find an answer anywhere. When I take a left ramp in higher than suggested speed my rear i guess right tire sort of skids and feels like it will come off. However, if I take the exact same right curved ramp at same or higher speeds it just swings smooth like a hot knife slicing thru the butter butter. Any idea what this could be. I hav an 04 6MT, all stock, 230k kms on it. Most likley some kind of bushing or bearing in the back wheel? or faulty tire?
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanx
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanx
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To be honest, I have no idea how to answer that. Your description is entirely about subjective feel without any quantifying factors.
I'd have the same trouble if you asked if it was normal if when touching your nose to your knee it felt like two month old avacado leaves.
I'd have the same trouble if you asked if it was normal if when touching your nose to your knee it felt like two month old avacado leaves.
Can someone give me a link to a site where I can find a decent size selection of body kits for my series II where I don't have to order from Japan? (shipping is expensive) So far the only kit I can find in America is the M-1 by extreme dimensions
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Look for the Calling all Body Kits thread and look for the brand names, then go to those company websites directly.
There isn't any reputable vendor selling kits enmass in the US.They are all shady, selling terrible knock offs, and/or bad reputation.
There isn't any reputable vendor selling kits enmass in the US.They are all shady, selling terrible knock offs, and/or bad reputation.
What would you get personally? I just don't like the front bumper on the s2, everything else is great
Last edited by naze; Aug 27, 2013 at 08:51 PM.
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Use google, not the search bar. Google this search text: site:rx8club.com calling all body kits
The R3 bumper for the S2 looks good to me. The non-R3 with fog lights looks ok, but not great. The non-R3 without fog lights looks blah.
The R3 bumper for the S2 looks good to me. The non-R3 with fog lights looks ok, but not great. The non-R3 without fog lights looks blah.
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"Best" is subjective. I hate all of the normal gauge locations. 
The 3 most common are:
- Next to A-Pillar (replaces the vent)

- Center Dash Hood

- Ashtray

The 3 most common are:
- Next to A-Pillar (replaces the vent)
- Center Dash Hood

- Ashtray
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Oh, you asked about the gauges, not the senders 
We don't really have a "block".
Oil pressure and temperature is typically done with a plate under the oil filter. Water temp is already installed in the car stock, so just use the factory sender.

We don't really have a "block".
Oil pressure and temperature is typically done with a plate under the oil filter. Water temp is already installed in the car stock, so just use the factory sender.
Well you know what I meant when I said block, just a normal term I'm used to using, I had been looking at the sandwich plate, but never used one so didn't know if they were decent, so you can use the oem temp sensor for aftermarket gauge?
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Yes, if you tap into it or use a gauge like this that reads OBD2 data:
PLX DM-6 | Auto Meter Car Gauge
PLX DM-6 | Auto Meter Car Gauge
Ok we'll that's great to know, part of my reasoning for doing this is I have problems with my oem gauges, when I turn the key of they will goto the normal resting spot, then they glitch, most of the time when you turn they key back on and they are supposed to be at say the zero spot, they will be at a completly different spot, which in turn has them reading incorrectly, for example my temp gauge when cold is way below the C, at normal temp is right at C. Then oil pressure at zero will read quarter gauge, when running it will read 3/4 guage,
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Weird gauge cluster issues is almost always a bad grounding somewhere. The most common problem point is the battery terminals corroding between the clamp and the posts.
That was my first thought was battery terminals also, but they seem to be ok, I have had experiences in the past with cluster problems, but it wasn't on a 8, the problem there was a bad ground at the cluster. One thing I do know about the car is the previous owner accidentally hooked jumper cables backwards and blew all the fuses in the car, so idk if that may have done something, I'm hoping not. Cuz I also have another issue with abs, traction control and brake light on also. But only in mid day, first thing in the morning it's fine, but I believe my issue there is tires since it has 4 different tires with two bald and has 225/40 Instead of 225/45
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I wouldn't worry about gauges till you get the wrong stuff fixed.
Yes, the tire difference can and will disable your TCS/DSC system, and possibly your ABS.
There has been a rash of crossed jumper cables or battery cables recently, and they rarely end well. Always blown fuses, but usually fried electronics. May not be a grounding problem after all.
Before ruling the battery out though, don't just look at the terminals, since it can be corrpding away where you can't see, between the clamps and the posts. Disconnect them and clean them thoroughly then reconnect, but make sure they are seated as ideally as possible before you tighten down the clamp screws. Free, and it just might solve your problem.
Yes, the tire difference can and will disable your TCS/DSC system, and possibly your ABS.
There has been a rash of crossed jumper cables or battery cables recently, and they rarely end well. Always blown fuses, but usually fried electronics. May not be a grounding problem after all.
Before ruling the battery out though, don't just look at the terminals, since it can be corrpding away where you can't see, between the clamps and the posts. Disconnect them and clean them thoroughly then reconnect, but make sure they are seated as ideally as possible before you tighten down the clamp screws. Free, and it just might solve your problem.
yea ive been though a couple forums on the lights, im having new tires installed Tuesday so I will see what happens there. one more thing on the lights is it don't turn the DCS light on, just the abs, and the squirly tires picture. other than that I don't really see there being any electronics problems cuz I don't have any other issues. brakes work fine, car drives great and runs great, if I did have an electronic problem say with the abs system wouldn't that be a control box for that? and then my gauges would be different, that would be the engine control if it fried that, which I would think would case me running problems, so im kinda ruling that out.
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I'm having trouble understanding what you are asking, but assuming what I puzzled out is correct...
If something did get fried, there is no telling what got fried, or how. For example it could be no more than a blown resistor for a single sensor (I had that happen in a prior car) or it could be anything all the way up to a melted board (which isn't your problem since the engine still runs fine).
It's the thing about electronics where sending voltage backwards through them becomes very unpredictable on which route the current will take, and in what volumes, possibly even splitting between routes, before it hits a fuse and blows that. Damage could literally be anything.
I don't suspect a problem there however.
Your ABS / TCS / DSC problem is due to the tire size difference, and the that module is just disabling itself to prevent causing a problem because it doesn't know WTF is going on. Wait till you replace the tires to worry about that. If it doesn't go away, then yes, come back and troubleshoot further.
If something did get fried, there is no telling what got fried, or how. For example it could be no more than a blown resistor for a single sensor (I had that happen in a prior car) or it could be anything all the way up to a melted board (which isn't your problem since the engine still runs fine).
It's the thing about electronics where sending voltage backwards through them becomes very unpredictable on which route the current will take, and in what volumes, possibly even splitting between routes, before it hits a fuse and blows that. Damage could literally be anything.
I don't suspect a problem there however.
Your ABS / TCS / DSC problem is due to the tire size difference, and the that module is just disabling itself to prevent causing a problem because it doesn't know WTF is going on. Wait till you replace the tires to worry about that. If it doesn't go away, then yes, come back and troubleshoot further.
Anyone have an idea why my CD player wont play CDs? When I put a cd in I just hear noises coming from player. Can load and eject CDs just fine though. Its the Bose system if it makes a difference.



