Mysticstylezrx8

So I just had to have my car towed home. I was driving down the highway when I shifted gears my clutch went to the floor and never came back up. I had to pull it with my foot to get it off the floor. It did that a few times and then I had pressure in the pedal again. As I pulled to a red light my motor struggled and then died. It won't start back up. When I turn the key it try to turn over but just spins and you can hear metal rubbing as it spins. Did I break a throw out bearing or did my apex seals take a crap

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Clutch failure. Either the pedal, the throwout bearing, the clutch master cylinder, the clutch slave cylinder, or a burst clutch disc. All are possible with those symptoms. Close diagnosis will be needed to determine which is the problem point.

Mysticstylezrx8

When I try to start it all I hear is metal spinning and feels like a I have no compression

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Inspect the clutch pedal to see if it has broken. The engine not restarting wouldn't be related to that though... Could be a bad coincidence, but see if it starts while in gear, or if the car moves when you try. If it does move, there's a clutch problem. If it doesn't move and doesn't start, there is an engine problem. Pull and inspect the spark plugs. You're looking for fouling, metal bits or coolant. If you can, look through the spark plug holes while turning the engine over bit by bit to verify if all 3 apex seals are in place. It's not easy to get all 3 to line up, maybe disconnect the accessory belts and try to turn the engine by hand.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

While there is meaning attached to that, it doesn't actually rule out any of that, because trying to start will have the clutch system starting to spin, and if something busted in there, it could be metal spinning against metal.

I had a clutch burst (pedal went to floor, stayed there), and the shrapnel of the clutch disc embedded itself in the starter nose, preventing the starter from engaging the flywheel, keeping me from starting the car. Lots of wierd things can happen when metal explodes at 9,000rpm.

No engine failure would result in the clutch pedal going to the floor and staying there.

Of course, you might have already had failing compression as a separate problem, many 8s do, but it isn't connected to the clutch pedal symptom.

Mysticstylezrx8

I bought an extended warranty with mazda and I'm having it towed up there. They will cover anything transmission and engine wise. I'm going to let them take a Crack at it and let me know what it is

Mysticstylezrx8

Ok so I got my car to the shop and they said my clutch went out. I'm going to do the work myself so I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the slave cylinder and stuff while I'm at it what are some thoughts on what all I should go ahead and replace while I'm doing this.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

if the slave failed, replace it.. if not, don't
if the master failed, replace it. if not, don't
if the clutch failed replaced it. if not, don't

Mysticstylezrx8

I already had a slight leak on my master cylinder. But mazda just said it was my clutch but they never the transmission apart to check so I bout everything so I'll have it if I need it. If I don't need it well it will go on a shelf in my garage until I do

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

If it was me, and I had to replace the clutch, I would do all of it.
I'd consider it a preventive maintenance/time saving issue.
I mean, while everything's easily accessible and all your tools are out and all.

*edit* oops, Mazda's doing it.
Nevermind.