I appreciate your input Charles.... put I like to verify myself instead of just taking people's word for it.
No offense to you or BHR.
In my line of work, I see oversights all too often from "educated engineers" that I'm left to correct.

 

With all due respect, I don't know how "far off the mark" we can be. What is it you mean by that?

It's simple. Pedal switch worked. Took it off, welded, put it back on, doesn't work. I don't know what makes that off the mark. I also don't think it's a huge issue. We're just trying to figure out why it happened.

It has nothing to do with the pedal adjustments. They have nothing to do with the switch and plate positions. Something in the process of the handling of the pedals caused the switch plate to come out of tolerance with the switch. I don't know if any of us knows why. Neither the pedal height adjustment, nor the FREE-PLAY adjustment should have anything to do with that.

On top of it, you made a post stating that several of your bracket replacements required adjustment of the switch plate. Doesn't make sense, but that's what has happened.

 

My bad. I negelected to mention that three other things happen; (where ELSE do you get this kind of help even when you didn't buy the pedal from me?)

1) When removing the pedal the slave cylinder can sometimes shift, causing changing free-play settings and such.
2) There is a carpet pad under the carpet that can sometimes also shift around causing installation issues.
3) There are washers that sometimes get lost, too.

How any of this effects the activation of the cut-off switch, I do not know (because it "should not"), but the pedal is a weird issue in that the welding we are discussing isn't "supposed" to matter (from a mathematical/engineering standpoint) but it certainly helps.

The only other suggestions I have are;

A) Pay me to fly to OH and do the swap/adjustments for you.
2) Bring your car to AZ and I will do it in my garage.

Just kidding around and trying to help, Guys.

 

I did notice this while reinstalling my pedal assembly.
I had to go into the engine bay and push the slave cylinder back against the firewall...............

Steve- when you do your pedal assembly, mind if I'm present to observe the removal, welding, and installation of the assembly?
Maybe then we can work on your kill switch too.

 

Hell, I'll even let you do the whole project while I have a margarita!

no... partially kidding... I'll help while having a margarita.


This Saturday is possible unless I get slammed with another viral infection.

 

I just read your post again and this caught my eye.
I have to disagree 100% on this statement.

Observing Doc's pedal closely I could see that the pedal travel was obstructed by the firewall.
There was still enough travel for the pedal if it wasn't for the firewall.
If the assembly was skewed in the theta (counter-clockwise looking from the center of the car), the pedal would hit the firewall sooner and prevent further travel.
Preventing further travel would also prevent the interlock switch from fully depressing.

 

I'm sure there is some minor tweak that can happen from the order that the bolts are tightened from pushing the slave cylinder back into place from the metal slightly pulling as the weld cooled.

Jon - maybe when we do mine we can be more scientific about this.... measure distances pre and post weld to see where we're getting variations.

 

1966 Wankel Spider for sale in Cleveland:

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1037052849.html


Now that is a proper rotary enthusiasts car! (someone here should buy it)

 

I was already thinking about that.
I have calipers and a speed square to use.

 

One last point then I gotta go build coil kits; I have done dozens of swaps of BHR-welded pedal assemblies and, aside form having to slightly tweak the switch pad, I have not experienced what you guys are discussing. Perhaps we are not on the same page and I apologize for not being able to offer anything further.

 

That is what makes me think perhaps the weld on the top only is warping the metal more than we're anticipating.

Jon and I will get to the bottom of this.

 

Just to add in I took apart my clutch again. Checked the master cylinder to make sure it was able to get flush against the firewall. Reassembled starting with the upper front (nearest to driver) to lock that in, then tightened the upper left against the master cylinder, upper right, and finally the generic plastic one below.

Same movement against the switch. I just ordered the new clutch switch today (tho I have the old one glued and taped to the clutch temporarily) so I'll do the 'bend don't break' next weekend when I get the new switch and I'm sure of the distance it needs to travel.

While I was in there I finally punched through the firewall and now have all my sender wires fed through to where my gauges sit. Unfortunately the power wiring harness from the gauges to the cig lighter is a little short so I'm going to have to splice two of my power cables together and then run it to the cig lighter. I also don't seem to have ground cables from my adapters. It appears that the prosport premiums have grounds built into the sender wiring (it's kinda a harness). Also the harness it comes with isn't long enough to get from the water adapter (which I haven't installed yet) to the gauges so I may need to do some trickery to get that all set up. I'm draining my coolant first thing on Saturday so I should have the water adapter installed by noon.

Anyway if Jon or Vex feel so inclined next weekend/week and want to help me finish up the gauge wiring I'll pretty much be free and in Akron all week. I think Brian is gonna stop by on Sunday to try to get my struts/springs set up.

Hopefully the car will be good to go by the end of the first week of March. Still need to figure out the starting issue so if that's still not working by the end of that week I'll either buy a new starter and swap it or have Mazda do it for me if it's still under warranty.

PS. I also may have accidently bought the MS front strut tower bar when I was ordering my clutch switch. Oops.

 

The master cylinder isn't attached to the clutch (physically).
You probably meant the slave cylinder (to the right of the master cylinder).

 

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Don't get all technical with me.

I was curious if it's just possible that the clutch needs to be bled. I'm planning on bleeding my brakes next week anyway so I'll make sure I bleed out the clutch SLAVE cylinder too.

 

Ryan you mind if I join you on Sunday? I'm on vacation for a week again.

 

Not at all. Plus you can help with any wiring if Jon or Noel aren't able (they're just down the street so I started with them). Anyone who wants to come down is more than welcome tho I gotta double check with Brian to make sure he's still game.

 

when I talked to him last night he was coming down.

 

TSB for plugs? I didn't see that on the finishline sight - is is a new TSB? If so, please direct me to it. Mine is an '07.

 

Ryan,

PM me the directions or address.

 

It was one of the flooding TSB's. Came out I want to say late 06 early 07?

 

Marked myself down for march 7th at work to get the day off. I also had a chance to talk to the guy that works at bestbuy with me, i guess hes only there part time on the weekends. He does accounting primarily.

He seriously needs window tint.

Speaking of im thinking of getting mine re-done. It was done before i got control of the car and its film tint. There are a few nicks here and there and a nice line of it splitting across my back window. Not very noticable from the outside, but i have to look at it in my rear view mirror

 

I'm still game. Did you end up getting the air compressor? If not I can see if megan can toss mine in here car and bring it up there. (it's a bigun) I already have all my air tools and assorted impact sockets in the trunk of the 8 ready to go, as well as my spring compressors.

The only thing left is for you to send me directions Oh, and decide on a time. Pm me either here or over on c6c and we can work out the finer details.



Mark, you gonna bring red racer down or the 40th? BTW, welcome back to the states

 

I'll have a good air compressor. No need to lug that around. I may be leaving to go ski around 3 or so which means the earlier you get there Sunday morning the better. I'll have the car on jacks and ready to go. No idea how long this is supposed to take.

 

You guys doing suspension work (I've already replaced mine twice)? Where and when...maybe I'll swing by to meet you all.

James

 

Yeah. Finally putting on my shocks and springs. They've been sitting in my living room for ~6 months now. Tokico D-specs and Tein H-techs.

It'll be down in Fairlawn near Akron. Here's the address for anyone coming down:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&sour...=16&iwloc=addr

The street view even works.