Official SARX Lounge
almost makes you want to just buy a replacment....almost
By the way thanks 9k....I had an amazing hour long coversation with Rob @ pineapple....great guy! and way better than anyone else so far.
Did you end up going the ceramic route? I am pretty sure I will be since I have a "drivable" car ATM and the delay isnt a big deal.
By the way thanks 9k....I had an amazing hour long coversation with Rob @ pineapple....great guy! and way better than anyone else so far.
Did you end up going the ceramic route? I am pretty sure I will be since I have a "drivable" car ATM and the delay isnt a big deal.
almost makes you want to just buy a replacment....almost
By the way thanks 9k....I had an amazing hour long coversation with Rob @ pineapple....great guy! and way better than anyone else so far.
Did you end up going the ceramic route? I am pretty sure I will be since I have a "drivable" car ATM and the delay isnt a big deal.
By the way thanks 9k....I had an amazing hour long coversation with Rob @ pineapple....great guy! and way better than anyone else so far.
Did you end up going the ceramic route? I am pretty sure I will be since I have a "drivable" car ATM and the delay isnt a big deal.
I did not go ceramic, I didn't feel it was worth the extra cost and from what I read no one has put more into the development of great apex seals than Mazda has. I mean if money were not really an issue i would have but what I would have spent on ceremic seals was less than what I paid for my upgraded turbo.
I was shocked that there was an estimated 40% life added to the motor by going that route. I will certainly be researching before I commit to that expense....whats the MIRR
Yeah on a NA engine I think 40% might be possible but with FI there are so many variables that I don't think you could say that really since many FI failures are due to crappy installations, crappy tunes, stupidity, etc.

I will most certainly be weighting that one very heavily that is a big chunk out of funding for the addition of boost.
No you understood right, they can be a huge advantage but what i am saying is that it depends on your tune, build, etc. With an NA engine detonation is much less likely to occur and so an NA engine is typically much more reliable.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Sep 9, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
gotcha, well we will see how this goes, I am going to continue on the "nickel and dime" route (figuratively speaking) until this motor craps out and then get the ball rolling pineapple more than likely.
getting all your parts squared away?
Well thanks to the weather on the East Coast my turbo and some other parts were delayed.
Saw a picture and a comment over on audizine that gave me a good laugh... figured some of you guys might appreciate it as well:
Picture:

Comment:
Picture:

Comment:
Nice SMIC block-off plate. Is that custom fabbed?
Thread Starter
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,851
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From: San Antonio, SARX Garage
Well thanks to the weather on the East Coast my turbo and some other parts were delayed.
I understand mounting it off center for some cars... it just seems to look better and sometimes allows for flow to a front mount intercooler. The problem is... S4's have side mount intercoolers. It doesn't really look better AND it hurts performance!
I'm interested in seeing his reply.... I wonder if it just slipped his mind or if he just completely doesn't know what's wrong with that set up.
I'm interested in seeing his reply.... I wonder if it just slipped his mind or if he just completely doesn't know what's wrong with that set up.
So I am trying to finalize cooling (in prep for new engine) and would like some feedback.
Definitely going:
BHR Rad
MM pump and thermo
Thoughts/Experience with:
Eliminating passenger oil cooler
replacing with 2nd rad (fluidyne from what I read but not certain what size gave best fit/results)
I think my eyes are crossed from all the radiator talk pertaining to applications that don’t fit Texas.
At this time I am N/A and my drive daily is almost all +50mph (very little traffic) and hill country drive every couple of months (willow city loop more often than not... so some “slower” speeds).


Definitely going:
BHR Rad
MM pump and thermo
Thoughts/Experience with:
Eliminating passenger oil cooler
replacing with 2nd rad (fluidyne from what I read but not certain what size gave best fit/results)
I think my eyes are crossed from all the radiator talk pertaining to applications that don’t fit Texas.

At this time I am N/A and my drive daily is almost all +50mph (very little traffic) and hill country drive every couple of months (willow city loop more often than not... so some “slower” speeds).


Don't delete an oil cooler unless you plan on replacing it with a equal or bigger oil cooler elsewhere. Keep the stock oil coolers and if needed, place a secondary radiator elsewhere. But at stock power levels I doubt you will need anything better than what the BHR/Griffin can handle.
Remember oil temps in the rotary are critical and are as important as coolant temps. A rotary uses oil to cool many more things than a piston engine does.
Remember oil temps in the rotary are critical and are as important as coolant temps. A rotary uses oil to cool many more things than a piston engine does.
Don't delete an oil cooler unless you plan on replacing it with a equal or bigger oil cooler elsewhere. Keep the stock oil coolers and if needed, place a secondary radiator elsewhere. But at stock power levels I doubt you will need anything better than what the BHR/Griffin can handle.
Remember oil temps in the rotary are critical and are as important as coolant temps. A rotary uses oil to cool many more things than a piston engine does.
Remember oil temps in the rotary are critical and are as important as coolant temps. A rotary uses oil to cool many more things than a piston engine does.
if I was to delete an oil cooler I would "enlarge" the other one to compensate (didn’t know which was most effective route). I assuming there will be a noticeable benefit with the BHR and the fact my OE coolers are pretty beat up I am not sure fin straightening will be an option to save them.
Keep what you have and work from there. The fins can be straightened so just do that and clean them and you are good. Mine were beat up bad and two hours of fixing them with tweezers and a pick equals this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6133233312/
I really wish i could keep my large Fluidyne but I just don't have the room.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6133233312/
I really wish i could keep my large Fluidyne but I just don't have the room.



