compression at 250 rpm according to the tech. Original post updated.

 

how fortunate that your starter is at the exact perfect rpm every time

 

Highly unlikely. And the the numbers need to be normalized as well. But who gives a crap if they are replacing it under warranty,

 

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...2/#post4577400
thread jacking!

 

Its not thread jacking... lol, Its a lounge (and an empty one at that)

 

Brandon, are you trying to break my build time record?

 

Maybe

Brief update:

Last Saturday, Team and I attempted to get the engine in with the Tranny still bolted in along with the PPF etc. We couldn't get the angle right so we are going to install the motor mounts, bolt the engine in, drop the PPF and we will try to fit the trans to the motor without draining the oil or pulling the driveshaft.

After that, all thats left is to install the new fuel pump, attach the new end links, and finish some small stuff on my own and this build will be complete. All I have to do is find a new upgraded pressure cap for my radiator, bleed the brakes with some new ATE bronze, and change the Diff fluid with Redline (more than likely).

 

You couldn't get the engine in with the trans attached? Why not? Although installing the engine and then the trans is no biggie. And do you mean trans oil or engine oil? Why would you fill either prior to install?

 

^^^ Just saw this... LOL...

Okay so I don't think I explained it perfectly but we had problems...

For the motor, we didn't have the right setup on the engine hoist so it would always be leaning one way or another, and as I'm sure y'all all know, for the engine and trans to mate up, it has to align perfectly... For some reason we could just not get that bitch aligned. For hours we tried and to no avail. So we decided to just drop the PPF and bolt up the engine first on mounts so we could have room to move the tranny onto the engine.

We never drained the (fresh) oil in the transmission because we planned to keep it bolted up to the PPF etc. and to try to get the engine in there without it causing any problems (which it did). Team, on his own time, dropped the PPF but kept the oil in the transmission as we had a trans jack to make sure nothing happened or damaged the CF driveshaft. So we bolted the engine in, and had room to mate the engine to the trans as we could freely move the trans some... Hope this clarifies what we did...

Ordered new Redline diff fluid and ATE type 200 brake fluid to complete the fluid flush. My HKS radiator cape from Arca shouldn't be long behind. Now all I have to do is figure out what kind of foam to use for my radiator. I have it narrowed down but I am ridiculous in what I buy and I feel my OCD is draining me of my already low funds...

No worries, I love this beast, and it should be up in no time...

 

Hey, Crazy 8's! Yeah, I haven't been around since Zilba died. Sucks.

May I still ask for your votes in the contest I'm in?

I'm trying to win some hearing aids.
I see you, Sheen. Thanks for your vote!


Nominate someone for the Gift of Hearing! (over $6,000 value) | Audio Recovery, Inc.

That's the link. I appreciate every vote I can get!

Bobby

 

it's been my fault with finding the time & motivation, my own car has been buried in the back corner for 6 months as a result

latest update, the trans is out. The pilot bearing was damaged & making noise. New one ships in tomorrow. Fortunately the input shaft end and e-shaft cavity appear fine otherwise. Never had this happen before. The best I can figure is it got hosed up trying to get the engine fitted to the trans. In retrospect it should have been easily obvious to me that trying to mate a 200+ lb engine to a 60 lb trans rather than the more logical opposite is about as @ss backwards a move as they come IMO.

Have a few codes coming up too, but can't fully investigate them until the car is back together. Engine seems to run strong otherwise.

 

It will get sorted, I am sure it got damaged during the mating process. But at least it was something rather simple even though pulling the trans is kind of a bitch.

Finding time and motivation has been a huge challenge for me lately as well. It doesn't help when I go to Porsche dealers looking at Caymans either,

 

got the trans removal thing down to a science now, especially since kickerfox recently sent me the sawed off front part from the drive shaft to use as a tailshaft plug, don't have to drain the oil to drop it out now. Didn't have that option previously

tried to drop the trans without pulling the driveshaft and it comes up just short of clearing the clutch with the input shaft

 

think it's good to go now, but we'll have to wait for Mr Motor Killer's feedback after he picks it up Monday night

 

Hey everybody. Im from keller and just recently purchased my RX8.

I am car illiterate, especially rotary illiterate. So im looking for a reasonably priced auto shop around the DFW area that specializes in the rotary build. Im having minor problems with the car that I would like to get diagnosed by someone who actually knows the ins and outs of the car.

Any Suggestions?

 

what do you need done?

 

Well currently I have the
P2097
P0171

codes popping up. I was just informed that I made a pretty dire mistake in having just any old aftermarket cat welded on to my midpipe, so that is first and foremost. I know I could probably do it with the right tools, but would just feel more comfortable with someone who has worked on them for awhile. Other than that, something is going on intake wise... not too sure what.

refer here on page 4 and 5 for more in depth of whats going on...
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...-223349/page4/

 

First, jchrest, welcome. Sounds like that dealership bent you over. As you're already finding out, aftermarket parts for the 8 can be very specific, so make sure to do your research first, as generic items tend to not work out for one reason or another.

Regarding a good shop, I'd suggest that you give Rotary Performance a call. It's not nearby (Garland), but as their name indicates, all they work on are rotaries. Chris (owner) can help you out, and in my experience, he charges fairly for the work performed. (972) 530-3335

 

I appreciate the reference, I gave them a call and explained what was going, they do not believe it is a good idea to drive the 50 miles to their location since the last time I drove, the overflow coolant bottle was steaming a bit. But, since then I have added 1/2 gallon of coolant.... dont know if its okay now. I ran the car to temp with the coolant cap off and it didnt boil over. Trying to figure out if the car is safe for transport...

 

Also, a heads up: most of the gauges on the 8 are dummy gauges. The oil pressure gauge just says you have pressure, not whether it's high/low. Similarly, the temp gauge will report the same area of temp once it warms up, for a wide range, and only when it starts getting 220+ will it start moving up again. Usually, at that point, you've already got yourself a problem that you need to be addressing.

 

Okay well all of these problems arose after I put a cat on. Someone is coming by today to take it off and we will see if that fixes any issues. Maybe the cat is clogged and is causing the exhaust not to flow properly and it is causing all of these problems...

 

Welcome!

Like Creto mentioned, definitely keep Rotary Performance in mind...They've gone up in price a tad bit, but the price is worth the time and effort they put into their work.

The codes you posted are fairly common and usually simple fixes...If you don't get the problems sorted out, feel free to PM me and I'll see what I can help with.

 

Well, I dropped er off at Rotary Performance on Thursday and they identified the problem. Bad front o2 sensor and a high resistance solenoid... they are fixing everything and the car should work great. Now, they mentioned they have designed their own cat, and since I took mine off, im kind of looking for a suitable one... anyone have any news on their cat? Also, the SOB was awful to drive 50 miles to their shop... haha, died on me on the highway like 3 times...

 

I've got their cat (actually on my 3rd one from them, but not of their doing). Just make sure you change out your coils/plugs every 20k miles and you'll extend the life of your cat.

If you have an MT, there's no issues with it. If you have an AT, they'll need to adjust the positioning a bit due to the transmission housing, otherwise you'll have a rattle issue.

 

I have a MT, so thats good. As far as the plug/coil change? is it a pretty simple process? I would like to be able to do alot of the maintenance myself, but as mentioned before Im super car illiterate, so a reference to a DIY would be awesome.