The GOODbox
07-30-2010, 04:24 PM
#202
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iTrader: (46)
No, I mean some of the guys have some skills but I don't know if they could do this, it's kind of a one shot deal I don't want any screwing up the Good Box. Can someone tell me what size/type wire I should buy?
07-30-2010, 04:53 PM
#203
here's a question for you goodbox owners:
twice now i've seen the garbled flickering display. once was the morning after install and it lasted for that trip and went again for the last few weeks. the second was yesterday after some quick turning and accelerating onto a highway from a dead stop. i turned the car off and on a couple times and it went away.
I thought loose connection but why would it stop happening after a couple power cycles? No, I have not taken it apart yet to look at the connections.
twice now i've seen the garbled flickering display. once was the morning after install and it lasted for that trip and went again for the last few weeks. the second was yesterday after some quick turning and accelerating onto a highway from a dead stop. i turned the car off and on a couple times and it went away.
I thought loose connection but why would it stop happening after a couple power cycles? No, I have not taken it apart yet to look at the connections.
07-30-2010, 05:22 PM
#205
The wire should be long enough......if you do solder them...make sure you immobilize the soldered areas...they tend to vibrate and break if they are rattling around
If you can pull the pins from the OBD connector to solder them..you can use proper heat shrink on the connections..otherwise you are stuck with tape
07-30-2010, 05:31 PM
#206
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@Hiflight and others, sorry for dropping the ball on you guys with the electrical stuff. work got temporarily insane, and my interests have shifted entirely with the plans to swap the 8 for the bike. but it looks like you guys are all working things out anyway 
07-31-2010, 06:47 AM
#207
Post #156, Item (6) = 18 gauge. As I said, electrically, it's much larger than what is needed, but it give a mechanically solid joint. Pick a color that's not red or black. There's really only one way to do it, but I'll put up a pic in a couple days when I have an excuse to take the box out again.
07-31-2010, 10:41 AM
#208
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i had the same issues as dondo. It looked like a damn slot machine at a casino with the thing scrolling and all messed up. It took a while for it to get back to normal. I had to unplug the harness from the box and then plug it back in.
07-31-2010, 04:32 PM
#209
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Post #156, Item (6) = 18 gauge. As I said, electrically, it's much larger than what is needed, but it give a mechanically solid joint. Pick a color that's not red or black. There's really only one way to do it, but I'll put up a pic in a couple days when I have an excuse to take the box out again.
Thank you sir. Just wanna give someone a visual so they don't screw it up.
07-31-2010, 05:29 PM
#210
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Okay, those two Race-Tech Bosch sensors are actually waaay expensive, so I think I will go with the AEM sensors posted previously, because I found a retailer here in the UK that does them for a reasonable price (along with an appropriate oil filter sandwich plate).
I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.
For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either.
For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.
One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?
In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?
If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week.
I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.
For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either.
For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.
One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?
In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?
If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week.
07-31-2010, 09:12 PM
#211
Okay, those two Race-Tech Bosch sensors are actually waaay expensive, so I think I will go with the AEM sensors posted previously, because I found a retailer here in the UK that does them for a reasonable price (along with an appropriate oil filter sandwich plate).
I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.
For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either.
For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.
One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?
In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?
If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week.
I consulted with my father, who is a retired electronics engineer, about the best way to: a) get a 5V supply for the sensors, and b) transform the temp. sensor's resistance into a 0-5V output.
For the 5V supply, he suggested a common 1-amp 7805 regulator, which should be overkill for the draw even from both temp and pressure sensors (AEM say their pressure sensor is rated for 6mA, and the temp. sensor should similarly be mA draw). No heatsink required, either.
For the temperature sensor, according to the temp->ohms table given, if we use a 1K pull-down resistor (for that sensor, resistance is inverse to temp), it should work out to about 0.5V output at 0C and 4.8V output at 150C. He said you could futz around with combinations of smaller-valued resistors (or even an op-amp), but that seems like too much trouble.
One suggestion he had was that the pull-down resistor could be wired-up completely inside the GOODbox, between the ground pin of the box's connector and the relevant aux. connection. Perhaps ran on the underside of the board, heatshrink-wrapped to avoid shorting. Good idea?
In fact, I thought, why not go the whole hog, and run the 7805 off the voltage supply pin coming into the GOODbox, and feed the 5V lines out from the GOODbox. Of course, this is assuming the input supply to the box is 12V... is it? Which pin?
If this all seems okay, I might go ahead and order my GOODbox this week.
08-01-2010, 09:26 AM
#213
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Could someone who's n/a with a vac/pressure line to monitor mp please let me know how well the goodbox boost gauge is performing (refresh rate and whether the readings seems accurate).
Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.
Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.
Last edited by Specialpowers; 08-01-2010 at 10:07 AM.
08-01-2010, 04:04 PM
#217
Could someone who's n/a with a vac/pressure line to monitor mp please let me know how well the goodbox boost gauge is performing (refresh rate and whether the readings seems accurate).
Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.
Also, are the guys with screen problems running additional gauges to the aux inputs?, and has anyone had the goodbox installed for a while and not had any issues with the display?.
I'm confident that these teething pains can be dealt with. My day job involves what is essentially a giant goodbox with 20,000 Aux inputs. It's very hard for a programmer to anticipate all the variables which occur in the field. Pieter's been very responsive so far in what I've given as feedback, so I'm anticipating this will be sorted out soon.
08-01-2010, 07:34 PM
#223
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Hi guys, I just had mine installed last week, and I'm reasonably happy so far. EDIT: Australian model.
It was significantly more difficult than the instructions showed for a RHD model with no TPMS unit. I wish I could say that I did it myself, but I handed it off to my mechanic so I didn't break anything.
I'm looking at hooking up an aux sensor within a few weeks, but for the moment just happy with original data.
I have had the garbled screen twice so far in the last week (of probably a dozen drives). Taking the key out and trying again can get rid of it, but not always.
The AFR coming from the ECU seems meaningless at a near constant 14.7, but this is probably more to do with how my Microtech is controlling the second injectors, as opposed to actual fueling.
Finally, I'm not sure I'm zeroing correctly for the boost gauge. If I set it to 0 with the engine off, it will rangfe from -10 to say +3 psi while driving. If I set it at idle, it will go down to -2.5 when engine breaking and up to 12ish at full boost. The second seems more correct to get an idea of "extra" boost provided by the turbo, but it seems odd that at idle the absolute pressure is only 1/4 of the normal atmosphere pressure (-10 psi = -0.75 bar relative to outside).
Comments on the last item would be great, and updated firmware for the garbled input would be even better, although postage will become a killer.
It was significantly more difficult than the instructions showed for a RHD model with no TPMS unit. I wish I could say that I did it myself, but I handed it off to my mechanic so I didn't break anything.
I'm looking at hooking up an aux sensor within a few weeks, but for the moment just happy with original data.
I have had the garbled screen twice so far in the last week (of probably a dozen drives). Taking the key out and trying again can get rid of it, but not always.
The AFR coming from the ECU seems meaningless at a near constant 14.7, but this is probably more to do with how my Microtech is controlling the second injectors, as opposed to actual fueling.
Finally, I'm not sure I'm zeroing correctly for the boost gauge. If I set it to 0 with the engine off, it will rangfe from -10 to say +3 psi while driving. If I set it at idle, it will go down to -2.5 when engine breaking and up to 12ish at full boost. The second seems more correct to get an idea of "extra" boost provided by the turbo, but it seems odd that at idle the absolute pressure is only 1/4 of the normal atmosphere pressure (-10 psi = -0.75 bar relative to outside).
Comments on the last item would be great, and updated firmware for the garbled input would be even better, although postage will become a killer.
Last edited by AusAndrew; 08-01-2010 at 07:39 PM.
08-01-2010, 09:10 PM
#224
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
for those of us that already had ours... is the slot machine issue something we should be concerned about? Do I need to ship mine back for a firmware update? tsk tsk we didn't push for a simple uart or pl2303 for hot firmware flashing
pieter let me know the best course of action. I can play russian roulette if that is what its going to amount to.. just say the word!
Shell
pieter let me know the best course of action. I can play russian roulette if that is what its going to amount to.. just say the word!
Shell
