The GOODbox
Possibly could be a bad/loose connection ( Ie. spade connector not in all the way or not crimped properly.)
Check your ground wire too. Could be a bad ground to the box cause a flakey 12v to it.
Install of Oil Pressure Sensor with Native 0-5v output
Using this type of sensor is an option if you want to have a Goodbox display of something that you don't already have a gauge for. The slight downside is that you have to power the sensor with +5v which is not supplied directly by the car. The solution is to install a voltage regulator that takes 12v and outputs 5v. I used this one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...99#tabsetBasic
I also bought a small project box that has interior mounts for what would normally be used for a circuit board. I took a small scrap of aluminum to provide both a heat sink and a common ground. The pics tell the story. Be a little careful, inputting the 12v onto the 5v out pin won't damage the device, but getting the ground and 12v reversed will. On the bench 6-12V in gave 5v out. The regulator is rated to 500 mA and the sensors generally only need 10 mV so the box could power multiple sensors if you wish to do so. I'm using the AEM 0-150 psi pressure sensor because my oil system is modified and often runs over 100 psi. The tradeoff is it's a little "soft" calibration wise at ~30 psi. If you have a stock oil system, use the 0-100 psi model. I verified the supplied calibration curve by feeding the sensor with air pressure and comparing the readings with a couple of different air pressure gauges. Pics are shown below.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...99#tabsetBasic
I also bought a small project box that has interior mounts for what would normally be used for a circuit board. I took a small scrap of aluminum to provide both a heat sink and a common ground. The pics tell the story. Be a little careful, inputting the 12v onto the 5v out pin won't damage the device, but getting the ground and 12v reversed will. On the bench 6-12V in gave 5v out. The regulator is rated to 500 mA and the sensors generally only need 10 mV so the box could power multiple sensors if you wish to do so. I'm using the AEM 0-150 psi pressure sensor because my oil system is modified and often runs over 100 psi. The tradeoff is it's a little "soft" calibration wise at ~30 psi. If you have a stock oil system, use the 0-100 psi model. I verified the supplied calibration curve by feeding the sensor with air pressure and comparing the readings with a couple of different air pressure gauges. Pics are shown below.
Using this type of sensor is an option if you want to have a Goodbox display of something that you don't already have a gauge for. The slight downside is that you have to power the sensor with +5v which is not supplied directly by the car. The solution is to install a voltage regulator that takes 12v and outputs 5v. I used this one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...99#tabsetBasic
I also bought a small project box that has interior mounts for what would normally be used for a circuit board. I took a small scrap of aluminum to provide both a heat sink and a common ground. The pics tell the story. Be a little careful, inputting the 12v onto the 5v out pin won't damage the device, but getting the ground and 12v reversed will. On the bench 6-12V in gave 5v out. The regulator is rated to 500 mA and the sensors generally only need 10 mV so the box could power multiple sensors if you wish to do so. I'm using the AEM 0-150 psi pressure sensor because my oil system is modified and often runs over 100 psi. The tradeoff is it's a little "soft" calibration wise at ~30 psi. If you have a stock oil system, use the 0-100 psi model. I verified the supplied calibration curve by feeding the sensor with air pressure and comparing the readings with a couple of different air pressure gauges. Pics are shown below.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...99#tabsetBasic
I also bought a small project box that has interior mounts for what would normally be used for a circuit board. I took a small scrap of aluminum to provide both a heat sink and a common ground. The pics tell the story. Be a little careful, inputting the 12v onto the 5v out pin won't damage the device, but getting the ground and 12v reversed will. On the bench 6-12V in gave 5v out. The regulator is rated to 500 mA and the sensors generally only need 10 mV so the box could power multiple sensors if you wish to do so. I'm using the AEM 0-150 psi pressure sensor because my oil system is modified and often runs over 100 psi. The tradeoff is it's a little "soft" calibration wise at ~30 psi. If you have a stock oil system, use the 0-100 psi model. I verified the supplied calibration curve by feeding the sensor with air pressure and comparing the readings with a couple of different air pressure gauges. Pics are shown below.
I did mine today and I love it. I am having an issue with my head unit power off but the issue was present to this mod and not related. My face place is slightly cracked on the inside due to the amount of times I have had the head unit out so I need to source a new head unit.
Anyway, I am loving this mod.
I bought mine off of Deadfoenix52 and installed it last night. Pretty neat contraption so far.
coincidentally I just finished up my EE degree and the code for the aux. inputs is nearly identical to the algorithm I used for my senior project (temp sensor probe for avalanche detection)
coincidentally I just finished up my EE degree and the code for the aux. inputs is nearly identical to the algorithm I used for my senior project (temp sensor probe for avalanche detection)
I bought mine off of Deadfoenix52 and installed it last night. Pretty neat contraption so far.
coincidentally I just finished up my EE degree and the code for the aux. inputs is nearly identical to the algorithm I used for my senior project (temp sensor probe for avalanche detection)
coincidentally I just finished up my EE degree and the code for the aux. inputs is nearly identical to the algorithm I used for my senior project (temp sensor probe for avalanche detection)
Cool, I like it so far. I also like the fact that it does not use the OBD port so I can still plug in my Hymee or my Cobb. I just wish it could display voltage though.
Oh, and I don't know why anyone would mount it in the coin tray, that would be a PIA.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Aug 16, 2010 at 09:37 AM.
This was after sitting in the garage for 2 hours after a drive, hence the really hot IAT.
Last edited by Lord ET; Aug 16, 2010 at 11:49 PM.
Conditionals:
You have a gauge already installed.
That gauge does not have seperate 0-5v (datalogger) outputs.
Then:
1) Splice into the signal wire between the gauge and the sensor.
2) Turn on the ignition (but don't start).
3) Set the goodbox to display the AUX Rawdata on the display unit using the AUX setup menu.
4) Turn ignition to "off".
5) Connect the signal wire to a Goodbox AUX input.
6) Turn ignition "on" and check the RawData value. If it's > 1000 or so, the signal voltage is over +5v. If it's reading exactly 0, it's the wrong polarity. Both cases mean the Goodbox won't work with this gauge without additional measures.
7) Next is recording the RawData reading at different gauge readings. For temperature, start the car and write down the RawData reading vs gauge reading as the car warms up. The larger the range you can sample, the better the resulting calibration will be. (My starting oil temperature was 80 deg, and I was able to get to temp of 190F just idling with the A/C on.)
8) Ignition 'off', and whip out your slide rule.
I show the process of getting the numbers required into the Goodbox in the two attachments. As a side-note, you can deduce from the data, that I haven't yet gotten proper grounding for my oil temp sensor. At the upper range of the temps, the RawData readings got noisy as the AC compressor and fans started turning on and off.
Easy right?
You have a gauge already installed.
That gauge does not have seperate 0-5v (datalogger) outputs.
Then:
1) Splice into the signal wire between the gauge and the sensor.
2) Turn on the ignition (but don't start).
3) Set the goodbox to display the AUX Rawdata on the display unit using the AUX setup menu.
4) Turn ignition to "off".
5) Connect the signal wire to a Goodbox AUX input.
6) Turn ignition "on" and check the RawData value. If it's > 1000 or so, the signal voltage is over +5v. If it's reading exactly 0, it's the wrong polarity. Both cases mean the Goodbox won't work with this gauge without additional measures.
7) Next is recording the RawData reading at different gauge readings. For temperature, start the car and write down the RawData reading vs gauge reading as the car warms up. The larger the range you can sample, the better the resulting calibration will be. (My starting oil temperature was 80 deg, and I was able to get to temp of 190F just idling with the A/C on.)
8) Ignition 'off', and whip out your slide rule.
I show the process of getting the numbers required into the Goodbox in the two attachments. As a side-note, you can deduce from the data, that I haven't yet gotten proper grounding for my oil temp sensor. At the upper range of the temps, the RawData readings got noisy as the AC compressor and fans started turning on and off.
Easy right?
So what temp sensor were you using for this?
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 77
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From: NYC
I believe from HiFlite999's posts he has only hooked up the pressure sensor and is using this one http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-ps...sensor-kit-659 .
To further this discussion I used my google skills and found the following, looks like they should work:
1/8" 150 psi pressure sensor - needs 5v input voltage - HiFlite999's R-Shack solution?
http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_sensors_oil.html
manual http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/A...g_Oil_Fuel.pdf
3/8" kit with 5v regulator for output, uses 12v input.
http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_sensors_temp.html
manual http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/A...structions.pdf
Manuals have the factors needed for the conversion of volts to psi and degrees.
$109.95 plus a sandwich plate and we should be in business, thoughts? I'll probably be the guinea pig but not for another month or two, have something else I should be focusing on.
To further this discussion I used my google skills and found the following, looks like they should work:
1/8" 150 psi pressure sensor - needs 5v input voltage - HiFlite999's R-Shack solution?
http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_sensors_oil.html
manual http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/A...g_Oil_Fuel.pdf
3/8" kit with 5v regulator for output, uses 12v input.
http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_sensors_temp.html
manual http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/A...structions.pdf
Manuals have the factors needed for the conversion of volts to psi and degrees.
$109.95 plus a sandwich plate and we should be in business, thoughts? I'll probably be the guinea pig but not for another month or two, have something else I should be focusing on.
I'm starting to think the slot machine effect is related to the ac as someone mentioned before. i hadn't seen it for a while and then we had temps in the 90s again this week so i was running ac and have seen it about once a day..
Anyone think this is a viable option for oil temp measurement?
http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-...sensor-kit-639
http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-...sensor-kit-639
I don't see why it wouldn't work. That seems like a reasonable operating temp range and really the math to figure out offset is very simple. It's just a matter of of ensuring whether or not the resistivity is linear through that region, which I'd imagine it would be.
I just bought the RB oil sandwich plate from an FS thread today. Do I need to buy something to plug up the pressure sensor hole? I don't really plan on using that.
I'll search, but if anyone is feeling nice
I just bought the RB oil sandwich plate from an FS thread today. Do I need to buy something to plug up the pressure sensor hole? I don't really plan on using that.
I'll search, but if anyone is feeling nice
I don't see why it wouldn't work. That seems like a reasonable operating temp range and really the math to figure out offset is very simple. It's just a matter of of ensuring whether or not the resistivity is linear through that region, which I'd imagine it would be.
I just bought the RB oil sandwich plate from an FS thread today. Do I need to buy something to plug up the pressure sensor hole? I don't really plan on using that.
I'll search, but if anyone is feeling nice
I just bought the RB oil sandwich plate from an FS thread today. Do I need to buy something to plug up the pressure sensor hole? I don't really plan on using that.
I'll search, but if anyone is feeling nice
You mean plug up the factory sending unit hole? No you leave it as is so you factory gauge works as usual. If you mean plug the other openeing on the oil filter adapter then usually it comes with plugs to fill the extra NPT ports.
Alright cool. If nothing else I was just going to find a bolt to screw in there.
I'm interested to see the temp sending unit the HiFlite used because the AEM is $40 and the prosport is $10 http://prosportgauges.com/temperature-sender.aspx
I'm interested to see the temp sending unit the HiFlite used because the AEM is $40 and the prosport is $10 http://prosportgauges.com/temperature-sender.aspx
Alright cool. If nothing else I was just going to find a bolt to screw in there.
I'm interested to see the temp sending unit the HiFlite used because the AEM is $40 and the prosport is $10 http://prosportgauges.com/temperature-sender.aspx
I'm interested to see the temp sending unit the HiFlite used because the AEM is $40 and the prosport is $10 http://prosportgauges.com/temperature-sender.aspx
I was wondering if my existing prosport Oil pressure sending unit would work with good box as well as my Auber oil temp sending unit but i have been too lazy to research. What is the voltage on the prosport $10.00 unit?
I would like to eliminate the factory oil pressure sending unit (on off switch basically so useless) though and install one in that place but you need a BSP to NPT thread a adapter. That is probably where I will measure from.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 417
Likes: 2
I have an idea for a possible fix. Not sure if it will work, but it is worth a shot. Get a ~5 Ohm resistor that is rated for 1Watt or more, and place it inline in the 12V wire. It will be like this
Car 12V ------------[5Ohm R] -------------- [GOODbox]
Such a resistor costs about 35c on digikey, but they probably sell them at radio shack too.
This should help limit the current pulled on startup, if that is the issue.
Car 12V ------------[5Ohm R] -------------- [GOODbox]
Such a resistor costs about 35c on digikey, but they probably sell them at radio shack too.
This should help limit the current pulled on startup, if that is the issue.
The random characters corruption I was experiencing from time to time before also disappeared.
Works well so far. We'll see ...
BTW using 2x 10 Ohm resistors in parallel from RadioShack.
Last edited by SC-ed; Aug 17, 2010 at 06:20 PM.
Running 4 days with this mod, 30-40 on/off cycles and haven't seen the "slot machine" yet. Never been that long before.
The random characters corruption I was experiencing from time to time before also disappeared.
Works well so far. We'll see ...
BTW using 2x 10 Ohm resistors in parallel from RadioShack.
The random characters corruption I was experiencing from time to time before also disappeared.
Works well so far. We'll see ...
BTW using 2x 10 Ohm resistors in parallel from RadioShack.
I actually think the RX-8 needs a bigger battery. Over the years I have had intermittent electrical issues and so I replaced my alternator and went with a better more powerful battery and I have not had issues since.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 417
Likes: 2
13.83-13.89 V engine running
That's on the GB connector.
Is it going to be any different across the resistors?