The GOODbox
Registered
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 63
Likes: 3
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Can anyone tell me whether they think the following temp and pressure sensors would be appropriate? They are 3-wire and take a 5v input.
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ors/OilAndFuel
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ors/OilAndFuel
Can anyone tell me whether they think the following temp and pressure sensors would be appropriate? They are 3-wire and take a 5v input.
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ors/OilAndFuel
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ors/OilAndFuel
Here's an alternative:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659
AEM also has 5V temp sensors, but it's not clear if they include the pull-up resistor in the harness like your link does.
Last edited by HiFlite999; Jul 28, 2010 at 10:11 AM.
I can confirm this! the OBD2 port wires work just fine and can be reached with the wiring harness without extension of the wires.
Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.
2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*
3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.
Good product!
Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.
2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*
3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.
Good product!
Last edited by HiFlite999; Jul 29, 2010 at 11:11 AM. Reason: My bad!
I can confirm this! the OBD2 port wires work just fine and can be reached with the wiring harness without extension of the wires.
Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.
2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*
3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.
Pieter3d:
Got the goodbox today in good shape. Thanks for shipping as we had discussed.
Good product!
Couple hints!
1) Do as HiFlite999 says and check the spade connectors when inserting them. Check through the plastic on both sides to make sure it goes "in". I had to check all my wiring twice as I missed one.
2) Unclip the OBD2 connector and let it hang. much easier to splice the wires on that way.
*I'll post pics of this step if someone wants*
3) If you are hooking up the goodbox as per the instructions and are placing the unit in the ashtray area. I didn't drill any holes. I just unscrewed the metal tab that holds (snaps) in the ashtray and there is more the enough room to run the wiring harness up there. I haven't put a vacuum line through, but may at a later date.
Pieter3d:
Got the goodbox today in good shape. Thanks for shipping as we had discussed.
Good product!
Medic-8-'d
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Found another pressure sensor that looks as if it may be suitable
http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf...s/FPEPRB-1.pdf
http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf...s/FPEPRB-1.pdf
Found another pressure sensor that looks as if it may be suitable
http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf...s/FPEPRB-1.pdf
http://www.feteriscomponents.com/pdf...s/FPEPRB-1.pdf
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
I think they would work in principle. Both have rather strange thread sizes so you'd have to come up with an adapter. Also, the current draw for that pressure sensor is given as 7A(!) - surely they meant 7 mA, but better be sure 'cause otherwise it will take a pretty hefty power supply.
Here's an alternative:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659
AEM also has 5V temp sensors, but it's not clear if they include the pull-up resistor in the harness like your link does.
Here's an alternative:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/150-psig-brass-sensor-kit-659
AEM also has 5V temp sensors, but it's not clear if they include the pull-up resistor in the harness like your link does.
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
Mazda part number...B593-18-840A Sensor (DENSO) $31.33
Last edited by ASH8; Jul 28, 2010 at 04:29 PM.
The Oil Temp Sensor of HwAoRrDk from Race Tech Looks Identical to the OEM Coolant Temp Sensor behind your Water Pump, that is also a 3 Pin...
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
Mazda part number...B593-18-840A Sensor (DENSO) $31.33
http://www.race-technology.com/wiki/...ureSensors/Oil
Mazda part number...B593-18-840A Sensor (DENSO) $31.33
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
The B593 Coolant Temp Sensor for ALL RX-8's is a 2 Pin not 3...I was getting confused with the OIL Pressure Sensor for the Series 2...That is a 3 PIN (N3R1-18-541)..
See pics..sorry about the Blur..You have to trust me the S2 OP Sensor has 3 pins, it measures Oil Pressure at #1 EMOP, Range from 7 to 21 PSI...and NO I do not know Voltage...sorry.
For the Goodbox alone, besides hogging out the removable part of the coin tray, all that's required is a ~3/4" hole straight back for the wire/vacuum line passthru. (The hole as shown should be ~ 1/4" further to the left). I'll get some black adhesive-backed felt later (instead of the checkerboard shelf paper). The two power lines back to the cigar lighter area may or may not have to be lengthened a little depending how you route the goodbox harness there. The hack job on the tray is kinda brutal, so I put painter's tape on the visible surface to avoid scratches. basically one slots the sides of the tray back deep enough for the tray to close. You can get the idea by looking at these pics. If one cut up into the area above the tray, one wouldn't have to go back so far, but I wanted to restrict the cutting to the tray and not alter the dash proper except for the pass thru hole which can be closed up with a hole plug to go back to stock. The box also has to sit a little turned to the outside if one does not want to cut up, so the tray can close with the goodbox inside it. The Goodbox itself doesn't need to be altered in any way to fit.
Still in the planning phase here. I'll probably follow your lead on tapping into the IM like you show, just cause it looks so simple.... even with my existing boost gauge.
For those using the coin box, has anyone considered hacking the Goodbox rather than the coin box? I haven't sized them up myself yet but am considering hacking the sides of the GB rather than the CB. My only fear is that the GB circuit board needs the extra clearance by cutting out the sides of the CB... if that's the case perhaps all that is needed is a 10mm slit on each side that the GB board can snap into.
pieter3d, would you be willing to send me an empty GB case in case i frak mine up?
You still have to hook up the display unit which means unstacking the center dash anyway. If you have the TPMS, there's no advantage to using the OBDII wires really.
Medic-8-'d
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
I think that the MAF/Intake Air Temp sensors run from a 5VDC source. If this helps.
Last edited by Specialpowers; Jul 29, 2010 at 12:51 PM.
Medic-8-'d
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
I think I've found some sensor modules that would be perfect for use with the GOODBox. Let me know what you think.
http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html
http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 13
From: Indialantic, Florida
I think I've found some sensor modules that would be perfect for use with the GOODBox. Let me know what you think.
http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html
http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html
So I would like to get the wires soldered for the aux inputs, do you guys have any ideas where I could get this done properly? Can any post a pic of how this is supposed to look?