Confirmed : NYCGPS's Motor is dead~
04-02-2009, 04:39 PM
#1
Confirmed : NYCGPS's Motor is dead~
Its confirmed. They will replace my motor because the ft rotor has low compression.
Dunno why. I did my job, change oil like nutz, Engine is clean (decrab so many times), so its not carbon.
Maybe faulty parts in the first place?
Anywayz, my car will be out for a few days ...
Argh
Update : Car is back ! Engine is strong !
Pictures : http://gallery.me.com/teknics#100065&view=mosaic
Dunno why. I did my job, change oil like nutz, Engine is clean (decrab so many times), so its not carbon.
Maybe faulty parts in the first place?
Anywayz, my car will be out for a few days ...
Argh
Update : Car is back ! Engine is strong !
Pictures : http://gallery.me.com/teknics#100065&view=mosaic
Last edited by nycgps; 04-16-2009 at 06:01 PM.
04-02-2009, 04:51 PM
#4
Mileage : 49.3 K
Yeah yeah I know people gonna be like "Synthetic oil killed it!" but All I can say is even regular oil-engine gets low compression. so dont even try to blame it on Synthetic oil !
I guess the failure has a lot to do with "early" OMP rate, too low (or maybe some faulty parts)
Too bad there is no way to know what is wrong inside. Maybe we can "leave a mark" somewhere on the old motor so if Sleepy-Z sees it at his plant he can tell us ? LOL
Yeah yeah I know people gonna be like "Synthetic oil killed it!" but All I can say is even regular oil-engine gets low compression. so dont even try to blame it on Synthetic oil !
I guess the failure has a lot to do with "early" OMP rate, too low (or maybe some faulty parts)
Too bad there is no way to know what is wrong inside. Maybe we can "leave a mark" somewhere on the old motor so if Sleepy-Z sees it at his plant he can tell us ? LOL
Last edited by nycgps; 04-03-2009 at 12:20 AM.
04-02-2009, 04:53 PM
#6
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Just curious, how did you notice to check for a compression loss? Was there a CEL or was there anything very noticeably different about the engine when driving?
04-02-2009, 04:56 PM
#8
Its a 2005
There were no CEL
But from time to time my motor just stalled at red light or when I try to hot-start it (meaning a driving it for a while, turn it off at gas station or something, come back and start it, it starts but then it stalls right away),
and of course, I get rough idle all the time (dropping below 700rpm)
But from time to time my motor just stalled at red light or when I try to hot-start it (meaning a driving it for a while, turn it off at gas station or something, come back and start it, it starts but then it stalls right away),
and of course, I get rough idle all the time (dropping below 700rpm)
Last edited by nycgps; 04-02-2009 at 05:02 PM.
04-02-2009, 05:35 PM
#10
Certified Mazda Tech
motor had 8.5 all around on rear rotor, front rotor was 7.0, 6.4, 5.4
(IIRC i just pmed him the right #'s and already forgot them)
Basically he had come in a few times for stalling concerns and other things. We had already decarbed and all. No CEL's. Car was running lean (about 11-12% LFT, normal SFT) just not enough to set off a CEL. Couple other data points I noticed that wouldn't be useful for you guys lol but there were small signs. Noticed a quick short start when warm would throw it to 750rpm, stumble down to 500 sometimes stall, then catch itself and idle at 700. Test drove it and it felt off to me, not too bad but something was missing down low, to me it was more noticeable in the "i have to pass this guy real quick and get over" power range.
As for what actually failed internally, nothing broken it seems. Personally I doubt it had anything to do with oil, generally we see rear rotor failures because the rear rotor always runs hotter internally. I'm thinking simply abnormal excessive wear of combustion surface and apex seals, most likely not really traceable to a specific reason.
i'll see if i find anything when replacing it.
As for a "mark" on the motor....it has a serial number I can write it down and post it when i pull it out.
Also, yes your car will be down for a while due to timing and the trans. Basically authorization and shipment of the motor can't start until I can fully diag the trans which takes a lot of back and forth between me and mazda.
About the trans, forgot to PM you this question, have you ever replaced your clutch? your pedal is very soft and the clutch grabs when its like 1mm off the ground which is abnormal. If you havent replaced the clutch, are you sure the clutch line was bled properly when the braided line was installed? In all honesty a pedal like this could cause hard shifting, since you have no problem with the other gears it's not going to be the cause of your reverse problem but just wondering whats up with the clutch.
kevin.
(IIRC i just pmed him the right #'s and already forgot them)
Basically he had come in a few times for stalling concerns and other things. We had already decarbed and all. No CEL's. Car was running lean (about 11-12% LFT, normal SFT) just not enough to set off a CEL. Couple other data points I noticed that wouldn't be useful for you guys lol but there were small signs. Noticed a quick short start when warm would throw it to 750rpm, stumble down to 500 sometimes stall, then catch itself and idle at 700. Test drove it and it felt off to me, not too bad but something was missing down low, to me it was more noticeable in the "i have to pass this guy real quick and get over" power range.
As for what actually failed internally, nothing broken it seems. Personally I doubt it had anything to do with oil, generally we see rear rotor failures because the rear rotor always runs hotter internally. I'm thinking simply abnormal excessive wear of combustion surface and apex seals, most likely not really traceable to a specific reason.
i'll see if i find anything when replacing it.
As for a "mark" on the motor....it has a serial number I can write it down and post it when i pull it out.
Also, yes your car will be down for a while due to timing and the trans. Basically authorization and shipment of the motor can't start until I can fully diag the trans which takes a lot of back and forth between me and mazda.
About the trans, forgot to PM you this question, have you ever replaced your clutch? your pedal is very soft and the clutch grabs when its like 1mm off the ground which is abnormal. If you havent replaced the clutch, are you sure the clutch line was bled properly when the braided line was installed? In all honesty a pedal like this could cause hard shifting, since you have no problem with the other gears it's not going to be the cause of your reverse problem but just wondering whats up with the clutch.
kevin.
Last edited by teknics; 04-02-2009 at 05:37 PM.
04-02-2009, 05:41 PM
#11
I'm Delaware Fast
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Its a 2005
There were no CEL
But from time to time my motor just stalled at red light or when I try to hot-start it (meaning a driving it for a while, turn it off at gas station or something, come back and start it, it starts but then it stalls right away),
and of course, I get rough idle all the time (dropping below 700rpm)
There were no CEL
But from time to time my motor just stalled at red light or when I try to hot-start it (meaning a driving it for a while, turn it off at gas station or something, come back and start it, it starts but then it stalls right away),
and of course, I get rough idle all the time (dropping below 700rpm)
04-02-2009, 05:44 PM
#12
motor had 8.5 all around on rear rotor, front rotor was 7.0, 6.4, 5.4
(IIRC i just pmed him the right #'s and already forgot them)
Basically he had come in a few times for stalling concerns and other things. We had already decarbed and all. No CEL's. Car was running lean (about 11-12% LFT, normal SFT) just not enough to set off a CEL. Couple other data points I noticed that wouldn't be useful for you guys lol but there were small signs. Noticed a quick short start when warm would throw it to 750rpm, stumble down to 500 sometimes stall, then catch itself and idle at 700. Test drove it and it felt off to me, not too bad but something was missing down low, to me it was more noticeable in the "i have to pass this guy real quick and get over" power range.
As for what actually failed internally, nothing broken it seems. Personally I doubt it had anything to do with oil, generally we see rear rotor failures because the rear rotor always runs hotter internally. I'm thinking simply abnormal excessive wear of combustion surface and apex seals, most likely not really traceable to a specific reason.
i'll see if i find anything when replacing it.
As for a "mark" on the motor....it has a serial number I can write it down and post it when i pull it out.
Also, yes your car will be down for a while due to timing and the trans. Basically authorization and shipment of the motor can't start until I can fully diag the trans which takes a lot of back and forth between me and mazda.
About the trans, forgot to PM you this question, have you ever replaced your clutch? your pedal is very soft and the clutch grabs when its like 1mm off the ground which is abnormal. If you havent replaced the clutch, are you sure the clutch line was bled properly when the braided line was installed? In all honesty a pedal like this could cause hard shifting, since you have no problem with the other gears it's not going to be the cause of your reverse problem but just wondering whats up with the clutch.
kevin.
(IIRC i just pmed him the right #'s and already forgot them)
Basically he had come in a few times for stalling concerns and other things. We had already decarbed and all. No CEL's. Car was running lean (about 11-12% LFT, normal SFT) just not enough to set off a CEL. Couple other data points I noticed that wouldn't be useful for you guys lol but there were small signs. Noticed a quick short start when warm would throw it to 750rpm, stumble down to 500 sometimes stall, then catch itself and idle at 700. Test drove it and it felt off to me, not too bad but something was missing down low, to me it was more noticeable in the "i have to pass this guy real quick and get over" power range.
As for what actually failed internally, nothing broken it seems. Personally I doubt it had anything to do with oil, generally we see rear rotor failures because the rear rotor always runs hotter internally. I'm thinking simply abnormal excessive wear of combustion surface and apex seals, most likely not really traceable to a specific reason.
i'll see if i find anything when replacing it.
As for a "mark" on the motor....it has a serial number I can write it down and post it when i pull it out.
Also, yes your car will be down for a while due to timing and the trans. Basically authorization and shipment of the motor can't start until I can fully diag the trans which takes a lot of back and forth between me and mazda.
About the trans, forgot to PM you this question, have you ever replaced your clutch? your pedal is very soft and the clutch grabs when its like 1mm off the ground which is abnormal. If you havent replaced the clutch, are you sure the clutch line was bled properly when the braided line was installed? In all honesty a pedal like this could cause hard shifting, since you have no problem with the other gears it's not going to be the cause of your reverse problem but just wondering whats up with the clutch.
kevin.
I had a 2nd Gear problem couple years ago. Dont think its related. Back then the dealership didnt do anything(not yours) and just told me to go home.
Last edited by nycgps; 04-02-2009 at 05:55 PM.
04-02-2009, 06:00 PM
#14
Registered
Sorry to hear about your engine, but you've seen this coming for a while, right? Let's assume your apex seals were starting to wear early on 'cause of insufficient OMP injection and lack of center oil injector. When did you start premixing? Did you notice immediate improvements when you started premixing? Better idle, better fuel economy? If that's the case, I think that would be a pretty good indication that you had some early wear issues.
04-02-2009, 06:18 PM
#15
Sorry to hear about your engine, but you've seen this coming for a while, right? Let's assume your apex seals were starting to wear early on 'cause of insufficient OMP injection and lack of center oil injector. When did you start premixing? Did you notice immediate improvements when you started premixing? Better idle, better fuel economy? If that's the case, I think that would be a pretty good indication that you had some early wear issues.
then I stopped about 2-3 months (cuz I wanna see how will it effect my motor and mpg)
over the "almost 4 years" of ownership, MPG has been going lower and lower.
When I got my car new, I think I can go 220 before fuel light comes on.
About a year later, 180-200
2 years later, 160-170
3rd year, 150-160 ---- start premixing, Gone back up to around 160 stable.
now, ever since I stopped premixing couple months ago, I've been seen a OH MY GOD level of 120 per tank, but usually around 130-140.
When that 120 miles tank happened. I was about to just crash my 8 into a wall and be done with it. Sheesh.
04-02-2009, 06:44 PM
#21
Power!!
It would be good to see if the side seal springs are failing like they are on the race motors. It would be really great for all involved if Mazda could start breaking down the failure modes and causes so the community could do the right thing to preserve our motors.
Premix will help the apex seal issues but not the side seal spring failures. Only a new part number will help that.
Premix will help the apex seal issues but not the side seal spring failures. Only a new part number will help that.
04-02-2009, 06:53 PM
#24
Premix about A year something ago.
then I stopped about 2-3 months (cuz I wanna see how will it effect my motor and mpg)
over the "almost 4 years" of ownership, MPG has been going lower and lower.
When I got my car new, I think I can go 220 before fuel light comes on.
About a year later, 180-200
2 years later, 160-170
3rd year, 150-160 ---- start premixing, Gone back up to around 160 stable.
now, ever since I stopped premixing couple months ago, I've been seen a OH MY GOD level of 120 per tank, but usually around 130-140.
When that 120 miles tank happened. I was about to just crash my 8 into a wall and be done with it. Sheesh.
then I stopped about 2-3 months (cuz I wanna see how will it effect my motor and mpg)
over the "almost 4 years" of ownership, MPG has been going lower and lower.
When I got my car new, I think I can go 220 before fuel light comes on.
About a year later, 180-200
2 years later, 160-170
3rd year, 150-160 ---- start premixing, Gone back up to around 160 stable.
now, ever since I stopped premixing couple months ago, I've been seen a OH MY GOD level of 120 per tank, but usually around 130-140.
When that 120 miles tank happened. I was about to just crash my 8 into a wall and be done with it. Sheesh.
for reference, my '04 with 89700 miles usually gets 240 miles before the fuel light comes on in mixed 50-50 driving
at least you're patient about the car, i'll give you that, lol
best of luck with the new motor, and tranny too!
04-02-2009, 06:59 PM
#25
Registered
Premix about A year something ago.
then I stopped about 2-3 months (cuz I wanna see how will it effect my motor and mpg)
over the "almost 4 years" of ownership, MPG has been going lower and lower.
When I got my car new, I think I can go 220 before fuel light comes on.
About a year later, 180-200
2 years later, 160-170
3rd year, 150-160 ---- start premixing, Gone back up to around 160 stable.
now, ever since I stopped premixing couple months ago, I've been seen a OH MY GOD level of 120 per tank, but usually around 130-140.
When that 120 miles tank happened. I was about to just crash my 8 into a wall and be done with it. Sheesh.
then I stopped about 2-3 months (cuz I wanna see how will it effect my motor and mpg)
over the "almost 4 years" of ownership, MPG has been going lower and lower.
When I got my car new, I think I can go 220 before fuel light comes on.
About a year later, 180-200
2 years later, 160-170
3rd year, 150-160 ---- start premixing, Gone back up to around 160 stable.
now, ever since I stopped premixing couple months ago, I've been seen a OH MY GOD level of 120 per tank, but usually around 130-140.
When that 120 miles tank happened. I was about to just crash my 8 into a wall and be done with it. Sheesh.