The Texas 8 Prepare thread
04-08-2010, 10:00 PM
#151
Nice, I just got 5th gear replaced and should be picking up my 8 tomorrow. Then I gotta redo my tranny fluid change with Idemitsu 75W-90 and then install my new Racing Brake ET500 brake pads, Racing Brake SS brake lines and ATE super blue brake fluid...
04-13-2010, 07:03 AM
#153
www.thetexas8.com
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mars Bitches
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again for all the help Adam! and yeah it does have a nice tone but it is effin loud! On the way home last night I just happened to have a lewisville cop next to me until I hit the flower mound city limit so I was having to drive in 6th as much as possible. Sounds good when you get on it though!
04-13-2010, 03:44 PM
#155
I have to re-bleed my brakes/clutch again after installing speed bleeders for them, ugh... I also have to install a clutch line... not to meantion I need to do a tranny flush right before the Texas 8 so my 5th gear breaks-in a little more (I got a brand new 5th gear) and I need a coolant flush since my light comes on when in the higher RPMS for awhile...
04-13-2010, 04:09 PM
#156
meh.
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: fwb, fl
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds about right... I have to re-bleed my brakes and clutch after installing speed bleeders... gonna be a hassle to install the SS clutch line as well...
Not to meantion I have to do a tranny flush right before the meet (just got a new 5th gear so im gonna let it break in, then tranny flush to idemitsu) and a coolant flush...
Not to meantion I have to do a tranny flush right before the meet (just got a new 5th gear so im gonna let it break in, then tranny flush to idemitsu) and a coolant flush...
I have to re-bleed my brakes/clutch again after installing speed bleeders for them, ugh... I also have to install a clutch line... not to meantion I need to do a tranny flush right before the Texas 8 so my 5th gear breaks-in a little more (I got a brand new 5th gear) and I need a coolant flush since my light comes on when in the higher RPMS for awhile...
04-13-2010, 05:17 PM
#160
Sorry for the confusion... I was freaking out, and still am a little...
Things I need to get done before the Texas 8:
I cant give a good description on the state of the clutch whether it has air in the lines or not considering I cant compare it to anything. Only description I can give is the clutch pedal is SOFTER than it was before and it engages ALOT closer it seems which to me points in the direction that i have air in the lines because the clutch isnt being pushed all the way back...
Im open this saturday which is when im going to install the Speed Bleeders and possibly attempt the SS clutch line if i have it here in time and if I know wtf im doing.
Apparent with Speed Bleeders you just remove the OEM valves, install the new Speed Bleeder valves, connect a hose to them which connects to a bag and pump the brakes a few times to get all of the air out. This process shouldnt take too long. Theres a ball and spring which prevents air from getting back in the Speed Bleeders, look them up to get a better visual...
If anyone wants to help that knows whats going on Id apprecaite it, let me know guys, ill provide food etc. thanks
"If you want something done right, do it yourself"
Things I need to get done before the Texas 8:
- Install Speed Bleeders (replaces OEM valves on brakes and clutch)
- Install Agency Power SS clutch line
- Re-bleed brakes and clutch (my brakes right now are very spongey, I dont know how what the condition of the clutch it, but its not nearly as firm as it used to be)
- Coolant flush
- Transmisson flush
I cant give a good description on the state of the clutch whether it has air in the lines or not considering I cant compare it to anything. Only description I can give is the clutch pedal is SOFTER than it was before and it engages ALOT closer it seems which to me points in the direction that i have air in the lines because the clutch isnt being pushed all the way back...
Im open this saturday which is when im going to install the Speed Bleeders and possibly attempt the SS clutch line if i have it here in time and if I know wtf im doing.
Apparent with Speed Bleeders you just remove the OEM valves, install the new Speed Bleeder valves, connect a hose to them which connects to a bag and pump the brakes a few times to get all of the air out. This process shouldnt take too long. Theres a ball and spring which prevents air from getting back in the Speed Bleeders, look them up to get a better visual...
If anyone wants to help that knows whats going on Id apprecaite it, let me know guys, ill provide food etc. thanks
"If you want something done right, do it yourself"
Last edited by WTBRotary!; 04-13-2010 at 05:26 PM.
04-13-2010, 07:58 PM
#161
A brake bleed is a very simple process when you understand it. All you are doing is chasing bubbles out at this point.
When you pump the brakes you are forcing fluid down to the pistons. Then when you hold the pedal you are keeping it there. Opening the bleeder valves allows that fluid to escape as well as the air bubbles that are within that fluid. Then you close the valve to prevent air from being pulled back in. When you release the brake pedal a portion of the fluid in the MC reservoir is sucked down to replace the fluid you just shot out. repeat the process keeping the reservoir fluid level above the min line, again so air isn't sucked in.
The speed bleeders won't help if you let that reservoir level drop below the min. good luck with the SS clutch, but I really doubt you need it.
When you pump the brakes you are forcing fluid down to the pistons. Then when you hold the pedal you are keeping it there. Opening the bleeder valves allows that fluid to escape as well as the air bubbles that are within that fluid. Then you close the valve to prevent air from being pulled back in. When you release the brake pedal a portion of the fluid in the MC reservoir is sucked down to replace the fluid you just shot out. repeat the process keeping the reservoir fluid level above the min line, again so air isn't sucked in.
The speed bleeders won't help if you let that reservoir level drop below the min. good luck with the SS clutch, but I really doubt you need it.
04-13-2010, 09:06 PM
#162
Thanks alot Adam, I dont know where Jew and I went wrong but I have some serious air in my lines. I think once I get my Speed Bleeders installed im going to shake the lines alot in hopes of forcing attached air from the insides from sticking. Maybe that will help.
But in the future im going to pick up some Autox anyways and will be bleeding the brakes a decent amount of the time. These will help out alot
But in the future im going to pick up some Autox anyways and will be bleeding the brakes a decent amount of the time. These will help out alot
04-27-2010, 10:48 PM
#167
I just want to make a public apology to WTBRotary, I was wrong to say that the brake were not brembos. After making some adjustments to my rear calipers tonight, I came across the fact that they are brembos..... we took pictures of the decal and will be posting them once 9K dl's from his cameras.... again WTB you were right
04-28-2010, 11:43 AM
#170
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I just want to make a public apology to WTBRotary, I was wrong to say that the brake were not brembos. After making some adjustments to my rear calipers tonight, I came across the fact that they are brembos..... we took pictures of the decal and will be posting them once 9K dl's from his cameras.... again WTB you were right
Yeah, Brandon, it appears you were right all along. Sorry I doubted you. It appears that in fact, the factory braking system was and still is designed and built by Brembo.
We removed a caliper a low and behold.........
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
