I am about to move on from stock intaks set up, first step I want to.do is ram air duct !!! But worry about this will block too much air flow cause car to over heat
In 73F day I was able to keep my coolant temp for 210F for whole session !!!

 

It only takes air from the top inlet and most of the air going to the Rad. comes from the bottom one so it doesn't affect cooling at all.

 

I run this. It's fine, made no noticeable difference in cooling performance.

 

... or engine performance ...

 

Also!

 

Hard to believe, I can think in solo2 might not work so effectively, but in track day should had some performance gain

On some of similar product , people report there is MAF G/S gain +20 , more air more power ~

 

Sounds like people have a poorly designed intake. We do not. Believe it or not, dynos and laptimes don't lie.

 

if it's truly a functional RAM air intake, then you really can't measure that performance on the dyno. the fan would have to be blowing air at 100+ mph. as diyman said, you can measure MAF on the track before and after to validate any gain.

 

What I want to say
Ram affect won't be show up on dyno's fan
Really want to add the ram air duct
But in my country with weather spike to 100f all the time with hum to 60%
I neeed all the cooling i get
Let's why I post it to ask any member try it on their car

 

what radiator do you have? i was thinking of switching to 50mm radiator this coming season

 

He has the RX8Performance dual-pass radiator. Been one or two people that have had a subsequent leaking issue with it. Not knocking it, just the facts as I know them. Seems to work well otherwise for racing purposes where it doesn’t have all the factory junk in front of or behind it.

Loki does track his car too. The issue with ram air is it’s not like somebody hooked up an electric supercharger or leaf blower to your intake. Unless you have a really big scoop in a high pressure location the actual effect is minor/subtle and something like a pesky air filter can dampen it.

Pressure is also going to choose the path of least resistance. The air at the nose of the car can likely flow much easier into the large lower radiator opening and other directions rather than try to squeeze into the smaller duct opening. Which has thick plastic mesh in front of it; further decreasing effective flow area, and then followed by a smaller tube that feeds the filter housing. The other thing is a variable like air temperature can greatly impact MAF readings.

So a reading without a temperature is in general meaningless; especially for comparison purposes, and the likelihood of someone being able to do a back to back test under the exact same conditions is perhaps not so likely given the amount of work to change the duct in/out.

.

 

Rx8 performance cross flow radiator
Cnc blade water pump , low temp thermostat
Stock fan , relocate battery , stock intake box

 

The AC condenser too

 

U too remember all my mod(^_-)-?

I Keep AC for deforestation ~

 

I read and research even more than I post

Maybe you should consider relocating the condenser like a v-mount intercooler instead so it’s not blocking the radiator In front like OE is not helping your situation.

 

lol, yeah AC condenser is no good. but you gotta do what you gotta do in that humid climate. you can also use heat as defroster. with the window down while on track, you wont notice the heat much from the defroster vents. when my Evo was running hot in the summer, i would turn the defroster on full blast hot, as a secondary radiator.