apotocki

OK - as some of you are probably aware, I've been battling a noise problem coming from the rear of the car ever since changing the springs to Eibach's. As a refresher, the noise occurs whenever going over sharp bumps anywhere from 5-35mph. Kinda sounds like the car is bottoming out....but is isn't.
Well, after much communication with Phil (DPE) - GREAT GUY and resource, I did the following:
Completely took apart the rear suspension and removed the springs. Checked everything to be sure it was installed correctly and nothing loose. All was fine but the noise was still there.
On a whim, I decided to loosen the lower control arms (the rear ones with the alignment nut) and the lower shock mount while the car was on the ground - did this with the suspension loaded. Upon doing this, there was a loud noise - the kind where it sounds like something was binding and it lets loose. I noticed that the alignment really changed......on the right control arm, it moved 5 marks and on the left it moved 1 mark. I decided to tighten everything and try driving the car. Well, the NOISE IS GONE.....but, my alignment appears to be all screwed up. The car feels funny and the steering wheel is way to the left.
I decided to move the alignment back to the original marks I made prior to the spring install. I did this while the car was on the ground - suspension loaded. It was difficult to get the right moved as there was quite a but of resistance, but I did it and tightened everything. Took the car for a test ride.......and.....the NOISE IS BACK.....but, the alignment appears fine and the car drives great.
My question/concern is....I probably need to take it in for a full alignment, right? But....when they do the alignment, will the alignment be done in a fashion as to not place the control arm back where it cause the noise? I think the noise is/was due to the control arm binding.....I think I'm close to solving my noise problem but worried about what an alignment may do to bring it back.
Also, can't believe I'm the only one with this problem!?! This has been extremely frustrating!

Thanks
Alan

apotocki

Thought I'd just follow-up with a couple new developments/updates.

I had a full alignment done last week. Front was pretty good. Rear was out (as expected). The Tech was able to set the camber on the left to 1.0 and only able to bring the right to 2.2 degrees. Toe was also out but brought into specs without difficulty. Explained the noise issue. He then inspected all the suspension components and found nothing out of the ordinary. He also indicated he knew of no problems with Eibach springs.
My noise continued. Really sounded like the suspension was/is coming through the trunk.
I decided to 'try' something over the week-end. I removed the rear Eibach springs (I know, I just wasted alignment money) with the stock OE rear springs. At least I 'think' they were the rear as no one marked my OE springs when the Eibachs were put on. My '8' now looked like it had Gabriel Hi-Jackers on the rear as the stock springs lifted the rear while the front was/is still dropped with the Eibachs. But.....the noise is gone.
Now.....idea hits....I had lots of time on my hands this week-end.....So, I then removed what I think are the stock OE rear springs and replaced them with the stock OE front springs. Ahhhh....my drop is back and the car looks good. Ride is good......NOISE IS STILL GONE.
Now, can anyone confirm how to ID the OE springs so I can be sure that I actually have the Front OE springs on the rear? They appear to be the smaller springs in both height and coil thickness and are marked with a pink dot (versus the larger springs having a purple dot).
Also, will this set-up work ok? I may just leave it.
and.....one more....any ideas as to what this noise 'problem' is? Shocks? bad Eibach rears?

Alan

canaryrx8

iTrader: (3)

if it was me, I'd take all the Eibachs out, put the stockers back in, and have Eibach send you a new set. front springs and rear springs have different rates and are designed to handle differently, and I'm very surpirsed there was no obvious difference as I can definitely tell the difference in mine. your problem could be alot of different things, but I'd start with replacing the Eibachs. By putting the fronts in the rear you may have killed your noise or whatever, but you just defeated the purpose of having aftermarket springs in the first place.

brillo

First, don't reverse the springs, they are rated for differient weight biases and will through the handling totally off.

The rear suspension in our car with lower springs is kinda lose, for lack of a better word. I have the MS shocks and springs and I can hear noises occationally. I noticed that when putting the stock rear spring strut combo's back together, I didn't even need to recompress the MS springs, I could put the top on by hand and push it down and get the nut on on the shock. your drop is even bigger than mine. I did install these, on the advice of a tech

http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/clunk.pdf

which also helped out.

hope that helps some

apotocki

The noise I was experiencing was not occasional....it was occurring on just about any - what I would term as larger bump at 5-35mph. The Eibach springs (rear)come with noise suppression silicone tubing. I had the tubing at the top of the spring and then added more tubing to the bottom....no change with the noise so I don't think the M6 solution would make a difference (but THANKS for the info)
Now....as to the use of the OE front springs in the rear. I'm having a difficult time understanding why this would/could pose a problem. I understand the differences in spring rates. And....when you go to aftermarket springs, the rates vary all over the place. Examples are:

OE stock front = 156lbs/in
EIBACH rear = 130lbs/in (but these are progressive so its hard to really put a figure on it)
TEIN S-TECH rear = 145lbs/in
TANABE GF rear = 146lbs/in
RB rear = 130lbs/in (I believe these are also progressive)
MAZDASPEED rear = 190lbs/in

Sooooo...with the above information, using the front OE springs on the rear would be alittle stiffer than most but certainly well under the MazdaSpeed which I know would require a shock upgrade. I don't really think there are other factors that come into play here with springs other than rate and drop. So, using the OE fronts should be fine, right? Am I missing something else? The drop in the rear using the OE front springs is right in line with those listed above - about 1 inch.
I know that this sounds really messed up, and more than likely I'll call Eibach and see what they say. I really didn't want to remove the fronts and put OE back on and then do it all again....but, that may be what I do.
The real question I still have is why do I experience the noise with the Eibachs when other with Eibachs have NO noise? (I could try replacing the shocks but everyone says I shouldn't have to and no one feels certain this is the problem either.....but it for sure seems to be either the springs or shocks.

Alan

Alan

Romeo

Just got my springs in and experiencing the same issue
squeeky and that "bottoming out" feeling.

I left my car at the shop, having them work it out.
When i find out what they did, i'll be sure to let you know.

Romeo

Found the problem....

we noticed that one of the shocks through the engine bay was ridding about half an inch higher than the other and knew right away that that was the problem.

we jacked the car up, pulled out the shock and noticed that the dude that put my shocks/springs back together had assembled the whole thing in the wrong order. (THis is VERY important), so we fixed the order, took it for a spin, and BAM!
Awsome. Looks good, feels great (Espilirs).

Now I got to find out what they did that is making my ABS and eBrake light not go away....
... I hope they didnt break anything.