Alignment Specs
#28
If your car oversteers like crazy I would suggest just changing the front bar to bigger and leaving the rear stock, that should add some understeer. As far as alignment I would run about -1.3 to 1.5 front camber and -1.8 to -2.0 rear camber and run some toe in, maybe 3/8 total for the rear. Also soften up your rear shock settings with the Flex's and stiffen up the rear and you should be good.
#29
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iTrader: (3)
I've been running -2.7 front, and -2.0 rear...with zero toe front, and 1/16 toe in in the rear. This has consistantly given me the best tire temps on the tracks that I run. When I had more rear camber...the insides were too hot...
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
#30
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I've been running -2.7 front, and -2.0 rear...with zero toe front, and 1/16 toe in in the rear. This has consistantly given me the best tire temps on the tracks that I run. When I had more rear camber...the insides were too hot...
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
#31
Got Another Rotary
I've been running -2.7 front, and -2.0 rear...with zero toe front, and 1/16 toe in in the rear. This has consistantly given me the best tire temps on the tracks that I run. When I had more rear camber...the insides were too hot...
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
Mine is street driven only, with lowering springs, and my settings are as follows:
-.5 Front Camber (minimum I could obtain with my springs)
6 Front Caster
-.75 Rear Camber (minimum I could obtain with my springs)
0 toe F/R
I am very pleased with the handling at these settings - just a touch of understeer with great turn-in and no stability issues at speed. I also am seeing just a little inside tire wear, but nothing major.
If you want to even up some of the inside wear from high camber settings, some toe-in (1/32 to 1/16) at each end will help (wears the outside more to even up). Toe on the rear will add a little stability and may be beneficial, but toe on the front will hurt turn-in response, but it will even out the tire wear some.
#33
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
I've been running -2.7 front, and -2.0 rear...with zero toe front, and 1/16 toe in in the rear. This has consistantly given me the best tire temps on the tracks that I run. When I had more rear camber...the insides were too hot...
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
So far this works well for me with the tires that I use ( Azenis) That would all change with different tires and wheels....
Great spec for the track with an excellent split IMO, tone that down 1 deg front and rear for a great street spec
#34
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
^^^ All the love...I'm honored
I street drive it...but I'm willing to put up with the tire wear. I have track days every few weeks and changing it is even too much for me....
I get a bit of inside tire wear on the street...but with the low toe..it isn't really that bad
I street drive it...but I'm willing to put up with the tire wear. I have track days every few weeks and changing it is even too much for me....
I get a bit of inside tire wear on the street...but with the low toe..it isn't really that bad
#35
Got Another Rotary
#36
I am running rb sways front and rears and tein s tech springs. My alignment is set to -1.0 camber in the front (seized camber bolt) and -1.9 in the rear. I forgot what my toe figures were but my car plows on the track, playing with tire pressure still wasn't enough to remove all of it, anymore suggestions before I yank the front sway out?
#38
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I am running rb sways front and rears and tein s tech springs. My alignment is set to -1.0 camber in the front (seized camber bolt) and -1.9 in the rear. I forgot what my toe figures were but my car plows on the track, playing with tire pressure still wasn't enough to remove all of it, anymore suggestions before I yank the front sway out?
#39
Got Another Rotary
I am running rb sways front and rears and tein s tech springs. My alignment is set to -1.0 camber in the front (seized camber bolt) and -1.9 in the rear. I forgot what my toe figures were but my car plows on the track, playing with tire pressure still wasn't enough to remove all of it, anymore suggestions before I yank the front sway out?
On the camber, you need to bring the relationship between the front/rear more in line. Setting them both to the same setting will create a pretty neutral car (depending on other factors), but most add .25 to .5 degree more camber in the rear to create just a little push (which is a little safer at the limit) and to compensate for the camber increases you get in the front when the wheels are turned due to Caster.
Front Caster needs set as high as possible after you have set your front Camber. This will vary depending on springs and camber, but usually is around 5.5-6.5 degrees. Caster provides a good "on-center" feel (tendency for wheels to straighten and stay that way) and will make the front camber increase at a greater rate when the wheels are turned for better front end grip on cornering.
#40
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I notice my settings are a bit different from most people's. I'm running 1.1/1.5 F/R negative camber with 6.6 caster and zero toe at the rear. However my fronts are toed in about .09 degrees each. I was a bit skeptical of running front toe in instead of rear, but the speed shop I was at suggested it would be better. So far it has worked out really well, despite my misgivings.
#42
Got Another Rotary
When toe is provided in inches, they measure the distance at the back of the front wheels and the distance at the front of the wheels - a 1/16" toe-in means it is 1/16" shorter distance in the front of the wheels - as simple as that.
Last edited by Jax_RX8; 06-09-2007 at 10:21 AM.
#43
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
as a rough rule of thumb
degrees/2 = inches
example
1/4 deg = 1/8"
please don't try to start an arguement on accuracy, it's a rough rule of thumb that get's more inaccurate as the angle increases, it's good enough for typical alignment purposes though and toe does not require precision accuracy on our cars, being in the ballpark is good enough
degrees/2 = inches
example
1/4 deg = 1/8"
please don't try to start an arguement on accuracy, it's a rough rule of thumb that get's more inaccurate as the angle increases, it's good enough for typical alignment purposes though and toe does not require precision accuracy on our cars, being in the ballpark is good enough
#44
road warrior
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oakland and Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,861
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as a rough rule of thumb
degrees/2 = inches
example
1/4 deg = 1/8"
please don't try to start an arguement on accuracy, it's a rough rule of thumb that get's more inaccurate as the angle increases, it's good enough for typical alignment purposes though and toe does not require precision accuracy on our cars, being in the ballpark is good enough
degrees/2 = inches
example
1/4 deg = 1/8"
please don't try to start an arguement on accuracy, it's a rough rule of thumb that get's more inaccurate as the angle increases, it's good enough for typical alignment purposes though and toe does not require precision accuracy on our cars, being in the ballpark is good enough
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