chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

I thought I would start my own thread for this since this seems really odd....

Some of my posts concerning this issue can be seen HERE

So basically, here's a quick synopsis:

I took my car for drive after updating my AccessPORT with the latest firmware that included the Dyno feature, so I wanted to try it out. I had just mounted an oil catch can and hooked it all up right next to the AST (and subsequently above the power steering harness connectors for the torque sensor and motor power).

During my spirited drive I apparently purged some oil into the catch can. Turned out the catch can wasn't 100% sealed so some oil leaked directly onto the power steering connectors. Now, oil doesn't conduct electricity and it should actually seal my connection better, so this is weird.

I cleaned everything and the next time I went the drive the car (a few days later) engine fires up and there is a CEL and the PS light is on, no power steering at all in either direction. The CEL is for the EPS module, B1342, the ECU doesn't read the EPS module basically.

So I get out of the car and double check the connectors and clean them. Still nothing. So I shot some electrical contact cleaner on them. Nothing. I disconnect the battery and do the reset by turning the wheels to lock to lock, then back to center. Nothing. I reset the ECU with the AP. Nothing.

So I check for continuity in the sub-harness, as I know that has been an issue well documented. All good. Then, just to make sure, I cut out the connectors in the sub-harness and solder everything together. This time the power steering motor (I assume) makes a knocking death noise everytime I turn the key on and off. So I undo my harness bypass surgery and the noise is gone....but still no power steering.

I got the FSM and ohm out the torque sensor per it's specs. All good. I ohm out the motor, all good. I double check the EPS fuse, all good. So I was just about positive my EPS module fried in some freak way.

I have a friend come over with his 8 and we swap EPS modules and the noise filters- mine works fine in his car and his does not work in my car. I also double checked the resistance values across the torque sensor and motor on his car and they are identical with my car. His harness also has the exact same continuity as mine.

In a last resort I updated the AP since the issue didn't happen until I ran an update.....no luck. I then even uninstalled the AP and still nothing....

So I am officially at square one- no idea what to try next. I am out of B2B warranty, plus I would get a hard time them touching my car with the turbo and other stuff.....even tho the PS system is obviously stock.

Any ideas or what to try next? This is beyond perplexing....everything by all accounts seems fine. There must be something stupid I'm missing....maybe a fresh mind will help me out, I've been fussing with this for a week.

Ideas? Please?


Thanks

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if the connector is not the problem, you probably have a short somewhere else, you just dont know it.

have you check the power steering's power source ?

teknics

the wiring there is super sensitive. We're now being advised to replace the entire harness for the P/S when cars come in with this problem.

Most annoying thing is these codes like to come up after motor swaps, you touch that connector once and all of a sudden it becomes bitchy. You probably would've been better off just leaving it alone with the oil on it

kevin.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Yes, there is power in the harness.

I will double check the harness but I have continuity all through it.

How would I have been any better just "leaving it alone"? I needed to take steps to at least attempt to fix it.....

Nubo

The knocking behavior after the soldering doesn't make sense. Any possibility the connections were crossed? Soldering them one at a time and testing operation in between might be revealing.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

^Yeah I did that. Check for continuity each time after soldering and tugged on the wire to make sure it was connected solidly.

I soldered the OEM connector back in and no more noise. I'm positive the connections weren't crossed, and I have continuity in the harness now with the OEM connector back in place, so I dunno

teknics

sorry mustve misread your post i thought the problem didnt arise until after you cleaned it, didnt know it happened as soon as oil was spilled on it.

Here's the god honest truth, sometimes you will test everything and find no problems even tho their is one. I've had this fight a million times and even mazda is currently trying to find an answer as to how to properly find the cause. If you read the exact diagnostic for the problem (EPS ecu failure) it basically says "replace eps module, if that doesnt fix it replace the rack"

I have seen the EPS module fail (no way to test it mind you) and i have seen racks fail (again no test in reality) both have failed seemingly at random. Of course ive seen a lot more wiring problems but not one of those has been an easy to diag problem. most of the times its luck.

kevin.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I thought that oil would conduct electricity albeit poorly . That being the case you need to think back to what could possibly be affected by a short .
That's all I got - sorry

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

I think you need a new rack Dave.

I said rack...haha.....rack=*****. ( o )( o ) <--*****.

*sigh* I'm bored.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

/\ you can't beat a nice rack LOL

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

They replaced the module on mine...then the rack 2 days later.....

I took it apart and cleaned the connectors and put dielectric grease on them...and it has been good for 3 years

That was after I told them about the harness problem that we had all discovered on the forum

Funny thing...the TSB followed

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Cool, thanks for the info guys

A friend told me to see if a dealership can reset my EPS.....apparently a special computer at Mazda has to do it, the battery disconnect for 5 min, then key on, wheel lock-to-lock back to center, key off reset doesn't do it.

Dan, what did you put dielectric grease on? The torque sensor and power harness under the hood?

I'm going to hit up dealerships tomorrow and see if anyone will help me 495 exact miles out of b2b warranty. If no dealership wants to help me I can try MNAO. If my car was stock I think this would be no problem....sigh

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

All the connectors from the EPS computer to the rack....

the VCM will pull codes and do a good diagnosis that you can't do without it....I'm borrowing one next weekend to see if I can fix my throttle problem. To bad you live so far away

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Hey you can ship it, right?!

Well I called a friend at a dealership but he said his hands are tied. He told me to call MNAO and not mention any of my mods

The person at MNOA was not very helpful. Basically she said I have to take it in to a dealership to have them "officially" diagnose it then we can talk about them extending my warranty. Nothing is guarantied, and I have to pay out of pocket for at least one hour of labor. Oh well, it could be worse, I guess.

angeljoelv

I had the same problem. this is what I did...
first i did exactly what you did with no results
and then.... I found it.
There is a sensor where the steering "pole" conects to the rack. I called mazda and the wont sell it alone so I dismantelled it and cleaned it. Vuala, never had any problem again... the oil most probably went in there and its getting a faulty signal.
All it doea is tell the computer you are turning and activates the rack.
Check it and you will see it works. unless ofcourse your rack is no good.

angeljoelv

It worked for me. Let me know what happened.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Thanks man. That's the torque sensor, correct? I ohmed it per the FSM and it's within spec (12-15 ohms is the spec, mine is at 14.6) but I will take a look at it.

Thanks!

angeljoelv

Im telling you man, I went nuts. you know i have the 20B swap so I had so much crap to check, and I did... That sensor was my problem. So id say check it. I dismantelled it and cleaned it with a conector cleaner. I hope it helps you, so you dont have to buy a ne rack.
I know a guy that has a couple and he is tha bomb. Let me know

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Alright, so I checked it and holy **** there was a metric crap ton of dirty in there. There was also a large chunk of oily dirt in a ball pretty large I got out. I didn't remove the torque sensor but I used a few q-tips and an old toothbrush to clean it out.

So I reconnected the battery and my CEL 1342 (can not read EPS module) is gone, but now I have CEL 2278 (Torque sensor) so I dunno.

I see there two 10mm bolts holding on the torque sensor but then I don't see how it comes off without removing the shaft which I really don't want to do....Joel, how did you get yours off?

angeljoelv

you need to take the cover off, for that you need to disconect the shaft. Man I cant remember exactly, it was very long ago. Do you have a pic of the conector? my car is in my shop and I need some refreshing... If not I can tell you tomorow

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

OK, I got the torque sensor out. Three bolts (one is a PITA since the PPF is in the way preventing you from getting a ratchet on it) and got it out. It was pretty clean after I went thru it but I hit it with some contact cleaner and put it back in.

No go. I ohmed it out on my bench and it's within spec. I'm not sure if I cleaned the right part- I cleaned the plastic casing (with the electrical connector potted on it) and it had a bearing in the top....I couldn't get anything else off.

Still have the new CEL tho, 2278. The fact that it changed from the 1374 to 2278 CEL after I cleaned the torque sensor originally has me thinking that has something to do with it....not sure

angeljoelv

after you clean it, disconect the batery so it resets. If that doesnt help you might need a new rack. let me know, I know a guy that has a couple. But hopefully it works.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Yeah I disconnected the battery while working on it, reconnected, key on, key off, d/c battery for 5 min, then reconnect, and still the same CEL. I even reset the PCM with the AP. \

How much for one of those racks? PM me bud

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

So I thought I had my issue fixed....

I remembered when I drilled the holes for the rivets for the oil catch can bracket my drill bit went behind the metal and actually into the harness. I checked at the time and didn't notice anything.

So I decided nothing else has fixed this, what the hell.....so pulled the harness that tucks up in the front lip area of the hood....sure enough two holes where my drill bit punched through. So I cut open the harness and yep, three wires were cut and twisted together. I cut and soldered in new lengths of wire to repair the damage. None of them looked to PS system wires, tho.

But, the big fat red power cable for the PS motor was cut, just so I could barely see the copper wire. I put some heat shrink on it and wrapped it up. After completing everything I reconnected the battery and key on....still no PS. WTF!!!

So yeah, still no idea what's going on. I might just see if a dealer can reset my EPS (has to be done with a special Mazda computer) so I dunno. This sucks!

dozer

iTrader: (3)

are you sure the little prongs on the inside of the connector are not corroded? since the placement of the PS connector is right about the radiator, moisture tends to build up and corrode the metal on the inside...