SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

A few weeks back, I had an alignment done. Turned out to be a whole dilemma because it was done poorly and was off spec. Not to mention some noise from the rear after the alignment and off-center steering. I made a thread on that:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/after-%24150-alignment-dilemma-advice-needed-please-help-218582/

Fast forward to my AutoX event on 6/25 (hardly driven my car between the alignment and AutoX). The steering was still off in addition to a bunch of understeering/oversteering. Towards the end, I noticed a buckling and knocking sound from the front suspension. I cannot pick out which side, but I am sure it is coming from the front. On my way back home, my off-centered steering got noticeably worse. To the point where I was taking left bends on the roads with the wheel straight. All this in addition to the buckling/knocking sounds.

Fast forward to last night. I haven't driven the RX-8 since the AutoX, so I took it around the block for a spin. As I moved out from my drive-way, I heard the sound. Any 45*+ turns of the steering wheel, I would hear the knock on initial turning. Left, right, doesn't matter. It was even more noticeable when taking 90 degree slow corners. Even pulling to the side of the street. At a stop, when turning the wheel, I can feel it through the steering wheel in accordance to the buckling. It is not a long and constant creak/knock. It would knock once or twice if I am turning in one direction, then come back if i make any sudden movements to the opposite.

I haven't gone under the 8 to check out any loose suspension components yet. Knowing that 2004s have TSB out for the end-links, I doubt my end-links are making the noise. I have been suggested that it may be a loose camber bolt. No idea, yet since I haven't checked. Before I do, would anyone like to make a knowledgeable assumption?

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Wow, near the bottom of the page already.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'd be willing to bet that one of the locking nuts on one or several of your front suspension adjustment points is loose or missing.
Barring that, noises are caused by rust on the rotor to wheel mating surfaces, worn brake caliper pins, broken or loose end links, worn ball joints, torn camber or caster bushings, worn tie-rod end joints, bad wheel bearings, etc.
Some of those things can even cause alignment issues.

ASH8

The two front stabiliser bar end links can break in time and will cause a knocking noise.

Yes, there is a TSB which includes All Series 1's and early Series 2's.
Modified ones came into S2 production from August 28, 2008.

Worth a look?

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the heads up. I bought myself a torque wrench today. Any idea what specs I should be torquing major nuts/bolts down there?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You should take it to a good alignment shop and put it up on a hoist so you can check what is out of alignment...

You might find it easier to find the broken part that way

Otherwise you will have to guess...or look at everything before you can figure it out

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Clunk is still there when I move the wheel the slightest bit. Almost feels like a snap through the steering wheel. I finally got to take a look this morning. Did what I can with a cheap torque wrench and tightened every bolt. No missing bolts as far as I can tell. All bolts connected to the A-arms are tight. Brakes are fine. No noticeable wheel bearing issues either.


Took a look at the right sway bar end link. Tried to loosen the top bolt first and after a hard loosening torque, there was a slight snap, and the bolt just spun with the nut... Didnt try the bottom nut yet. Going to check the left endlink now.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That's why there is an allen key on the end of the bolt part

If the ball and socket joint is sloppy then it needs to be replaced..but just turning is normal

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, figured that out the 2nd time I look a look at it .

Every nut seems to be tight as far as I can tell. Took a torque wrench at ~65 pounds to them, and they didn't budge. End links seem fine also with a slight amount of play, not enough to be on alert.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Up. Any thoughts? I have driven it twice (some what short distances), and obviously the buckling and clanking hasn't gone away. On rumble strips (approaching tolls), the suspension rattles like tin cans shoved against moving spokes of a bicycle. I havent checked the shock tower mount yet, but I will do so. All major connecting nuts and bolts for the suspension are tight. Same with the brakes.

maffatato15

if your steering wheel got worse from day one, i would make sure the jam nut on the tie rod is snug. When a jam nut is loose the inner tie rod can move as desired and it can/will make a clunking or looseness noise. I know this because at my shop i will loosen rusty jamnuts up in one bay and drive them over to the alignment bay. I would have it checked out like what was mentioned above. If the tie rod comes out....say goodbye to turning which ever wheel.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Looks like this might be the problem. Much thanks to to JCrane for updating me since he had a similar issue.

JCrane82

iTrader: (3)

Hey SayNoToPistons......hopefully you can track down this gremlin. I am extremely happy to have solved this, and everything is still great even after an autocross weekend. The front lower control arm bushings were siezed to the cam bolt and needed to be cut out. Hilariously, the Mazda dealer I took it to was unable to press out the stock bushings using their press. They needed more press force, so they had to take them to a local machine shop and they were able to press out and press in the new bushings.

I am glad I didn't try cutting the bolts out myself, since I would have been screwed with pressing the bushings out with my vice. I was pissed to have spent $600 at a dealer when I pride myself in doing all my own work. I think I need to start making friends with a local machine shop.

Good luck and I hope you solve it soon.

tonik

thread bump...any update?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

It would make more sense to buy/swap in a new control arm and get a new ball joint in the process rather than install new bushings in a used control arm.

I had a hard time understanding the thread because the term buckling relative to a suspension means collapsed/bending/warping etc. rather than a sound, which would better described as clunking/clanking/knocking etc.



.

JCrane82

iTrader: (3)

tonik,

The noise is still gone for me. I agree with Team to some degree. Since the bushings are very difficult to get out and press in new bushings, getting a new lower control arm seems like a better option. It will cost more, but you will also be able to do all of the work yourself if you just get a new control arm.

tonik

That's my plan.. to replace the whole lower arm as i don't have the tools to remove the bushing.
I want to make sure that the bushing is one of the culprit.
I did replaced the shock/spring and end links with no luck.