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Old 09-13-2015, 01:17 PM
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Replace automatic transmission starter with an manual starter?

I have a 2005 mazda shinka automatic transmission and i need to upgraded the starter motor is it possible for me to added a Manual transmission stater to my car ?
Old 09-14-2015, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Von Walker
I have a 2005 mazda shinka automatic transmission and i need to upgraded the starter motor is it possible for me to added a Manual transmission stater to my car ?
No. They are two different part #'s and fit differently.
Old 10-01-2015, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hadjidamus
Ok guys, brought in a Mazda technician to overlook the car....Found the MAF or IAP to be the cause of the problem....Forced engine to start and reset the computer....Car starts and runs but I can feel power loss. I will replace with a new MAF sensor and see if all is resolved.

Hi guys, got the car to start with a new MAF sensor but now it continues to start by cranking longer than it used to. I have since changed to new spark plugs but no fix. The battery is giving a reading of 12.63 volts when car is off and 13.6 when car is on and running. The car drives ok once started but I feel some hesitation when trying to move off from a stop, especially if there is an incline.

Any suggestions?
Old 10-16-2015, 03:33 AM
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hello, so my Mazda wont start itself, it's starting with a rolling, in second gear with no problem, the guy from i bought it told me that engine has no compression. The car has 100k+ km on chassis.

So any ideas what it can be ? battery, flooding or i need a new engine ?
Old 10-16-2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by iamtngg
hello, so my Mazda wont start itself, it's starting with a rolling, in second gear with no problem, the guy from i bought it told me that engine has no compression. The car has 100k+ km on chassis.

So any ideas what it can be ? battery, flooding or i need a new engine ?
You need air, fuel, spark, and compression for an otto cycle engine(rotaries fall in this category) to run. You actually have just enough compression to run for a short time, but I bet you if you let the engine warm up completely it will stall frequently. You need an engine.
Old 10-16-2015, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Love_Hounds
You need air, fuel, spark, and compression for an otto cycle engine(rotaries fall in this category) to run. You actually have just enough compression to run for a short time, but I bet you if you let the engine warm up completely it will stall frequently. You need an engine.

Actually when it's warmed up runs normally. that's why i asked
I'm gonna try to start again today. is there any chances that engine will be just flooded? or any other small issue ?
I definitely don't want to swap any other engine.

and about previous owner, actually he don't know nothing about this car except it's a rotary engine.

Last edited by iamtngg; 10-16-2015 at 07:52 AM.
Old 10-20-2015, 11:34 AM
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Hi guys! Seems since I'm new I can't make a separate thread. Anyway. Long-time lurker, finally now also an owner of an RX8 since a relatively short while back. Now the issues have began

I'm having starting issued with my Manual transm. 2004 RX8. And the workshop couldn't really experience it themselves. They blamed the battery and the connectors, and replaced all of it. However, this didn't really improve things for me. Maaybe a tiiiny bit in that I now not ever run into a situation where it won't start, but I will still have some really slow starts once in a while.

So, hot or cold start? How about "random"? I really haven't been able to pin it down to that it would truly be "hot" starts. Thing is, hot or cold, mostly it can start just fine. This is maybe every fourth hot start, if that makes sense? I can also have some really fast starts while it's hot, so I'm a bit confused.

Trying to find a pattern I can explain to the mechanic. Because they changed the battery and felt like it was fine. But in everyday use I don't notice much of a difference.

What I'm suspecting right now, is when I get really gritty into making a perfect parking. Don't want anything to scratch it, and often have to parallel park, so sometimes I adjust this, going back and fourth and maybe regretting my parking decision (with engine running), going away to another spot. I think maybe my "slow" parking is the culprit. Does that make any sense? Note that I don't mean re-parking, the engine has been running hot and this is at the end of journeys. Can it still be that I'm fludding it?

It does get better if I leave it alone to go and start it up later. But once in a while it can also get better if I just pull out the key and 5 seconds later put it in and start again. Perhaps ignition issues?

I feel I need to poke the mechanic in the right direction when it comes to troubleshooting this, but am a bit confused myself. So if anyone have any idea, I'm all ears
Old 10-20-2015, 11:37 AM
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do you know what size starter is in it? how old is your ignition? did you get a compression test when you bought it?
Old 10-20-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
do you know what size starter is in it? how old is your ignition? did you get a compression test when you bought it?
I actually asked them to check the model number of the starter while in there. But they seemed so sure it was the battery so they skipped that.. Little disappointed as it would have been good to know. Don't know the age of ignition. I imagine they're the sad stock coils as all service have been done by certified Mazda shops, but some logs are bit thin unfortunately.

The dealership did not have the equipment to do compression test on a rotary seeing as they usually don't sell them. So yeah I bought it without a test and took a stupid risk I know :/ I'm actually in my mind prepared for the idea that I'll have to find someone to rebuild or replace the engine at some point, but was hoping for some year before that. So here's hoping!

Have been in talks to a mechanic that can do a compression test for me now, though. Even certified Mazda mechanics have been a bit "no we don't want to help you with the engine" when I've asked them about that, but I finally found one that was used to renting the tools as they had some rotary clientele. It won't stop by itself at idle or anything of that nature, though.

Last edited by Elusi; 10-20-2015 at 04:46 PM.
Old 10-20-2015, 11:56 AM
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the upgraded starter is longer than the original one. 1.4kw vs 2.0kw iirc. if you dont know the age/mileage of the ignition i would replace plugs, wires and coils. also clean the ess, maf and 20 brakes stomp
Old 10-21-2015, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Elusi
Hi guys! Seems since I'm new I can't make a separate thread. Anyway. Long-time lurker, finally now also an owner of an RX8 since a relatively short while back. Now the issues have began

I'm having starting issued with my Manual transm. 2004 RX8. And the workshop couldn't really experience it themselves. They blamed the battery and the connectors, and replaced all of it. However, this didn't really improve things for me. Maaybe a tiiiny bit in that I now not ever run into a situation where it won't start, but I will still have some really slow starts once in a while.

So, hot or cold start? How about "random"? I really haven't been able to pin it down to that it would truly be "hot" starts. Thing is, hot or cold, mostly it can start just fine. This is maybe every fourth hot start, if that makes sense? I can also have some really fast starts while it's hot, so I'm a bit confused.

Trying to find a pattern I can explain to the mechanic. Because they changed the battery and felt like it was fine. But in everyday use I don't notice much of a difference.

What I'm suspecting right now, is when I get really gritty into making a perfect parking. Don't want anything to scratch it, and often have to parallel park, so sometimes I adjust this, going back and fourth and maybe regretting my parking decision (with engine running), going away to another spot. I think maybe my "slow" parking is the culprit. Does that make any sense? Note that I don't mean re-parking, the engine has been running hot and this is at the end of journeys. Can it still be that I'm fludding it?

It does get better if I leave it alone to go and start it up later. But once in a while it can also get better if I just pull out the key and 5 seconds later put it in and start again. Perhaps ignition issues?

I feel I need to poke the mechanic in the right direction when it comes to troubleshooting this, but am a bit confused myself. So if anyone have any idea, I'm all ears

If you let the car sit for a week, does it have a really long start? Any white smoke coming out the tail pipe as soon as it starts after a long start?

sounds a bit like my coolant leak issue I had where it would start fine most of the time but then intermittently it would take a long time. (but my compression tests all passed). Dealer also replaced my battery as first step. 04 as well.
Old 10-23-2015, 02:46 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by TBAGG
If you let the car sit for a week, does it have a really long start? Any white smoke coming out the tail pipe as soon as it starts after a long start?

sounds a bit like my coolant leak issue I had where it would start fine most of the time but then intermittently it would take a long time. (but my compression tests all passed). Dealer also replaced my battery as first step. 04 as well.
Never left it to sit for a week But I'll be on the lookout for white smoke!

Or would be. Maybe it is compression after all. Or I don't know. Had a long trip this morning and the check engine light turned on. Nothing felt weird and all gears were fine, no weird sounds or any physical indication that something would be wrong. I drove and parked and about 30 seconds later I started the car again, and it started really fast :S

I just happened to be close by the mechanic where I left it last time, so I went by there again.

They're gonna check it out and call me, and I'm going to ask them for a compression test.


EDIT: They got back to me. Not so great news. Bloody expensive news.. The CAT is busted. Only the receptionist called and the mechanics will speak to me on Monday. But from what I hear the cat had been mounted by some cowboy sitting with only one bolt, and I won't be surprised if they on Monday claim it's not the original one.

Can that have been the problem, you guys think? Previous owner having cat issues (oor what does the material inside the original Mazda cat go for? maybe he just wanted moneh), mounting a shitty regular cat instead knowing it would work for a while enough for him to sell it?

Big question for me is if this can have affected my irregular starting issues, cat not letting the engine clear or something? Also, couldn't there be irreparable damage to the engine caused by this?

Last edited by Elusi; 10-23-2015 at 11:12 AM.
Old 10-25-2015, 10:48 AM
  #188  
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hey everyone, i have been looking all over and cant seem to find anything similar to this issue im having... i have an 05 RX8 and most of the time (when its warm) after i go into say a store for a minute or two i hop back in and the car will not turn over. i then have to get out, lock it with the key, and unlock it and then hop back in and most times it will start, however, sometimes it takes 2-3 tries locking and unlocking the door. also the lights will not blink at this point to lock or unlock the doors with the keyfob when this is happening. im guessing it is the immobilizer in the alarm system being triggered often somehow so if that is the case anyone have a clue on how to permanently disable it so i can just hop in and drive my damn car?! lol


side note: i have checked all battery connections and the starter is brand spanking new with good connections on those also.... and also unsure if this could be related or even causing the problem but the lock mechanisms seem to be broken on both doors and they do not lock or unlock with any buttons only manually.

side note 2: this is a manual 6 speed tranny and yes i am fully pressing the clutch down all coils n such look newer also and i dont even get a click as if the starter was shot/not connected properly it simply does nothing at all...

any help is greatly appreciated! :D

Last edited by Johnie Blaze; 10-25-2015 at 10:57 AM.
Old 10-25-2015, 11:34 AM
  #189  
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Starting Issues? START HERE.

What do you mean by: the coils look good?
Have you had them tested? Have you had all ignition components checked and verified?
It could be that by the time you get in and out of your car a few times that the engine has had enough time to cool off. Have you had your compression checked?
Last, have you verified all electrical connections with a volt meter?
Old 10-25-2015, 01:04 PM
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rx8 soldier im honestly unsure if your reply was to me or not, however, i will give some added info. i didnt say the coils look good i said they look newer like brand new to be specific, however, i see no reason to test them as the car starts and drives with no problems after i get back out of the car from when i first get into it and nothing happens and lock, then unlock the doors with the key(disarming alarm manually). as i stated prior all electrical connections have been tested and are fine as far as starter/battery. i have not however done connection tests on the ecm. and as far as bad compression the motor would not have driven 150 miles the other day if that was the case. also as far as the motor cooling down, going into a store for 1-5 minutes will not cool any engine down unless ya have nitrogen blowing on it lmfao and also this does not happen on the first startup of the day.... my best guess is the alarm immobilizer is activating hence(having to lock and unlock the doors manually) in order to get it to "turn over" and start. again it runs perfect after it "turns over" and starts it simply will not turn over after it is warm when i turn it off and get back in either shortly after or have had times when came back hours later and it still did it but rarely(the temp guage still read warm at these times) is mostly after i get out and get back in within 5mins to an hour. also i have not done connection test to the ignition, however, having to get out and manually disarm alarm with key in door makes me think it is something else like the immobilizer but im happy to learn something new lol and as far as i know with the 100k cars ive worked on and sold u can disconnect the coil and the vehicle will still turn over, however, rotary's certainly are a dif breed lol

btw sry for all the () and "" im just trying to make sure i am as clear as i can be
Old 10-25-2015, 01:16 PM
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Starting Issues? START HERE.

You could have a key fob related issue.

But coils "looking good" unfortunately doesn't mean squat. Only a coil tester will let you know for certain. I'm not saying you have a coil issue. But it's a potential problem with all starting issues.
You could drive thousands of miles on an engine with failing compression.

But I don't want to get off track. This thread details a checklist for you to follow in order to troubleshoot your issue. If none of them work, (and ACTUALLY VERIFY WITH PROVEN RESULTS, NOT JUST GUESSES) then come back here and tells us what you did.

Easiest way to determine via the Internet. ..
Old 10-25-2015, 01:25 PM
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if you can tell me that a bad coil will make the car not turn over then i will check them, however, i have worked on thousands of cars and all of them i can unplug and take the coil completely out and the vehicle will still turn over so what it the point of checking them??? i have done everything else listed on the first post so ummmm is this site to help people or tell them they have no place here bro? and furhter more again i NEVER SAID THE COILS LOOK FREAKING GOOD BRO WTF!?!?!?!?!
Old 10-25-2015, 01:33 PM
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Starting Issues? START HERE.

Look "bro" I'm here to help. But I can't deduce what's wrong as I am not there to physically see what you have or haven't done.
Hence why I ask you to verify by the normal checklist to get an idea of what you have or haven't done.

But if you don't want to follow a basic standard and jump here there and everywhere trying to chase down your issue, then all the luck to you.

And you're right- these cars are different than others. They may follow the same basic principles of car mechanics, but the logic is somewhat different from the norm.
Old 10-25-2015, 01:39 PM
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Starting Issues? START HERE.

Originally Posted by Johnie Blaze
... all coils n such look newer...
There it is.

Anyways, you're clearly not ready for this. I'm sure the thousands of car's you work on turn out alright. But your personal Internet skills are lacking and you haven't figured how to deal with constructive troubleshooting from some stranger who has no prior knowledge of your car or your abilities to work on a car, and is literally hundreds of miles away from your car.
Calm down a bit, and may the next person offer you the help you need.
Old 10-25-2015, 02:30 PM
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@Johnie Blaze, I would say RX8Soldier has been more than patient attempting to help you out here. It's unfortunate you reacted the way you did.

Please go over - thoroughly - the initial post. Just because items (coils, starter, battery, etc) appear 'brand new', that doesn't mean a thing. An item can render defective at any point, regardless of its age.

If your starter is not even clicking or turning, I would say that there is another issue at play here. As RX8Soldier mentioned, possibly a keyfob.

Anyways, go over the original post and verify everything there first.
Old 10-25-2015, 03:49 PM
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guys as i said i went over everything except for the coils im sry if i did not give specific numbers on what the readings are as i dont feel i should have to im not a noob in mechanics and just assume you would not think i was by the detailed information i gave already. the only thing i have not tested was the coils and well the ecm but i do not currently have a diagram for it in order to trace leads(which isnt listed on the first post. and il say it again i have already done all listed on first post but the coils but again i have to say it makes no sense to me at all in anyway that they could be the culprit as i drove the car 150 miles yesterday and it drives and runs 100% it simply is the no crank issue when i hop back in after locking it up going into a store im not the type to waste time looking into things im 100% sure couldnt be the issue and i stated if u told me the car would not turn over with a bad coil then i would be wrong and check it but u didnt u went ahead and started on with i didnt do this or that when i already told u i did so whats good man? im just looking for help not to be spoken to like im ignorant fool. so im sorry if i get a little edgey when someone gets caught up on one line of an entire paragraph and puts words into my mouth i def dont appreciate that at all. also the keyfob is working if i click it twice then the horn beeps as it should please read all of what i put guys im not typing for my health :P lol and the fob will also open trunk n send into beep/panic mode anytime


just to reiterate i have done all in first post and tested all leads i could with a meter besides coil packs as i feel that is useless for this certain issue if you can give me reason as why it would be important i am happy to get them tested tomorrow

Last edited by Johnie Blaze; 10-25-2015 at 03:54 PM.
Old 10-25-2015, 03:58 PM
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or how about even this... i am unable to find a post that shows/explains how to disable the immobilizer and/or entire alarm system from the factory which i feel is the issue so if anything ignore everything that was said and maybe could tell me how to do that? lol im happy to start there considering everything i have tested besides coils ofc is all good all around.
Old 10-25-2015, 06:32 PM
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man, your posts are a wall of text. I can't get past more than the first couple sentences.

So your car won't start, it won't even crank, and something goes weird with the alarm system that requires you to reset it in some manner.

Ok, got it.

Do you have an actual alarm with a shock sensor? Is it a factory alarm? If so you should find it in your passenger footwell.
Old 10-26-2015, 06:39 AM
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Factory alarm

after i return from store after only a few minutes it wont crank when car is at normal operating temp

if i hop out and lock door with key and immediately unlock with key it will then crank over


keyfob works but car doesnt register it properly when warm does when cold
Old 10-26-2015, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnie Blaze
Factory alarm

after i return from store after only a few minutes it wont crank when car is at normal operating temp

if i hop out and lock door with key and immediately unlock with key it will then crank over


keyfob works but car doesnt register it properly when warm does when cold
What happens if you slap your hood or quarter panel with your alarm engaged? We've yet to establish if you have a shock sensor, which many 8s don't have...


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