Royboy96

and by any chance does a quarter of a tank get you 40 miles? or more? i feel as though my mpg is worst then what i remember

cpenner

I have read this whole thread with great interest - and feel I've eliminated most (all?) of the things in it. Sadly, I'm still not running.

My RX8 is a 2007 GT (MT) with 81,000km (50K miles) on it. It has been running very well - with no quirks or symptoms of any kind until Friday night. The only modifications to it are a Mazdaspeed CAI (had since I bought the car 3+ years ago) and a BHR ignition (coils plugs and wires installed last year). Nothing else has been added or deleted. It has NEVER been hard to start or flooded - warm or cold. No misfires since replacing coils last year (had a defective coil).

Friday
- drove for about 20 minutes
- Backed into a parking spot, and turned off and locked the car for half an hour
- upon return, the proximity key unlocked the car
- when I turned the **** to start it the dash lights came on, but the car did not seem to even try crank the starter - no chugging/whirring/clicking
- dash lights were bright - no sign of battery drain
- push start was attempted - sounded like the engine turned over, but no sign of firing
- noticed the word "KEY" on the dash was green when I turned the car to accessory (and radio came on) - but was RED (KEY)when I turned it the next notch to start
- noticed that the security icon on the bottom of the left gauge (the key in the car icon) was flashing quickly
- tried the physical key instead of the remote - no difference
- moved the proximity key fob out of range of the car and used the physical key for everything from entering the car to trying to start - no difference
- my son had a puking migraine, and it was midnight, so I left the car and got a ride home.

Today (Saturday was too busy, and the car is a half hour drive away from me)

- brought a different key fob/key - same behavior
- hooked the battery up to a freshly fully charged battery booster - no difference
- disconnected the positive terminal on the battery, stood on the brakes to drain residual power, and reconnected the battery - no difference
- searched the entire interior of the car for another key fob that might be interfering (long shot - since the problem happens with the physical key too) - nothing found
- searched though the fuses under the hood - and found the 15A Engine fuse - 5th one down the row - was blown. I didn't notice any other blown ones under the hood. I also didn't know about the fusebox by the driver's door - so I didn't check there.
- swapped the fog light 15A fuse with the blown Engine fuse. As soon as I turned the key to start the car, the fuse blew (after getting home, I read about people blowing fuses when they went into reverse - but I'm certain I was in neutral and didn't touch reverse at all)

I'm trying to imagine where there would be a short. All of the wiring (except the BHR ignition) is stock. All of the lights/stereo/etc. are stock. Nothing in the configuration of the car has changed in a year.

The hardest part for me is the fact that the car is stranded a half hour drive away. I have to guess in advance which of my tools to bring and drag a second driver out with me in case I get it running!

At this point in time, I'm stumped. I can't figure out why the KEY icon goes from GREEN to RED when I change from ACC to START - and what could have made the security icon flash quickly? Perhaps those are normal behaviors that I've never noticed before and are a red herring? In retrospect, my big feet might have hit some wiring under the dash at some point in the getting in and out of the car?

I've probably got one more trip in me to go out to the car and try stuff before having to get it towed. I'm not really keen on it being left in a dark, secluded, unattended parking lot for too long. I have my old (stock) coils in my garage, and I suppose I could bring those out to rule out the BHR ones - but that doesn't seem like the source of the problem.

What have I missed?

cpenner

Anybody have any ideas? I've got one last trip out to the car before I have to get it towed to the dealer. Thanks!

(bonus points if you can tell me which tools to bring with me in the tank bag of my wife's motorcycle)

cpenner

It appears to be coil related. I swapped back an old set of coils from my garage and the car started. Got it home and will be able to narrow it down much better from my own driveway.

Ksandman64

I have a 2010. I'm not sure if you can help, but Im dealing with a no crank, no start on it. I have a new battery and a new key fob battery. My father went to school for an auto mechanic but never dealt with a rotary engine. He has tried everything he knows that could be the cause. I have been told it may be my security because the battery going bad and I may need to reset the codes in my car. The problem is, I never had my security light flashing or my key light 'red' or any key light on. We check all fuses, all cables are clean and tight, lights on dash come on, windows roll down, stereo doesn't come on or interior lights work (which all worked prior). When I try to start there is a click in the fuse box, but all fuses are good. It doesn't even try to turn over. We're stuck on what to do next and if anyone could point us in the right direction to fix the issue. I read all comments and your original post, but nothing seems like my problem and if there is I do apologize. If you have any information it would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Inframack

Hi
I have 2004 mazda rx8 it has 100k on it.
I don't know why but the engine keeps flooding all the time, in the last week i deflooded the engine 4 times but the last time it just wont start at all, the deflooded procedure won't work anymore, any ideas?

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

how old are your plugs, wires and coils? how old is the battery? cca? what starter is in your car? stick or auto?

Ksandman64

For my post?!

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

no inframack

kingkhan

I'm pretty new here, but from previous experience on different cars a suggestion would be to check out the alternator. When the alternator went in an older corolla we had, the car ran, but none of the electronics inside worked. IE interior lights, radio etc.

It could also be the clutch interlock switch if yours is a manual.

Ksandman64

It's not a manual... It's the auto stick or whatever.... My windows head lights and dash lights work, that's why were stumped. No idea why interior lights and radio isn't working. We checked all fuses and have a new battery, but it not running, the alternator won't run/ charge.

tbiggybig

Did you check the starter? and your radio, if you took it out to check anything, if the whole radio isnt seated all the way it may not work so give it a push on it usually in this case some or none of you center console works. how many miles does the car have? Checked all fluids ? I know some cars have things like oil sensors that wont even try to let you start the car if its low. (not sure if the newer rx8s have this)
i would check all the fuses with a meter because sometimes they look fine but arent look at some of the electrical diagrams check and see if everythings fine on that level maybe (im not a mechinic im new to this rotary thing too just throwing in my past expeirences) hope something helps

Ksandman64

Thank you for the response... It only has 37k miles on it, but it ended up being the main fuse. Which we had checked and it was good, the wires connected to it heated up and everything but found out it didnt give enough power to start her up. So just a heads up... Even if u check with a meter and shows its good and power flowing, it may not be enough?!?! But thank you for your input. I appreciate all the help I could get. We were just stumped.

tbiggybig

I meant if you check a fuse by eye it may look good but sometimes theyll pop without even looking like they did so meters come in handy at that point sorry worded it wrong glad you got it fixed though

wendylockliear

I'm getting a code P2101. Car started fine and I moved it about ten feet before it warmed up. It hasn't started since. My nephew put a code machine on it and that's the number he got. Son tried to jump it and wouldn't start. I'm at a loss and miss my car.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

Drive By Wire code.... Guessing there's something wrong with your throttle body. Start by checking electrical connections.

William619

So I see all types of issues but I want to know if anyone else also experiences the same problem I have, my car will not start what so ever. I once got it to fire up with my foot to the floor and it would only go up to 1,000rpm...very unusual. After this, the rx-8 has not fired up once more! It's a 2004 auto model! Maybe it can be the starter but I don't know much of rotarys so if anyone else experienced this problem and fixed it! Please be a helping hand!

Vaughan20

Hey guys wondering where you guys think I should start in trouble shooting my 2004 RX8. It was running perfectly fine with no issues other than it smelled like gas(running rich). I stopped at my girlfriends house for a few hours and after it started just fine. Then I went out to dinner and after that it took an extra second or two to start up but nothing major. Then when I pulled out and stopped at a stoplight the car died and the battery light and anti theft light came on. The car wouldn't start anti theft light was blinking and battery light and check engine light was on but that was for an O2 sensor. After trying multiple thing we disconnected the battery and reconnected it and the anti theft light stopped blinking. The car still wouldn't start though. My friend disconnected the MAF sensor and then it would start but still die when below 1000 RPGs so I had to keep on the gas a little bit. So I got it home cleaned out the MAF but still no luck. Still won't stay idling. I think the O2 sensor that is on is the one after the cat. Could my cat be clogged causing the car to run rich and malfunctioning the MAF and tripping the O2 sensor or could it just be the MAF? So many possibilities I just don't know where to begin. Don't have a ton of money to be putting in it. Cars at 80150 miles and I don't know when the last time the plugs and coils where changed as car is fairly new to me

Vaughan20

Also it's a 6 speed manual and car ran fine all day and night until right after dinner was over, last about an hour. Going to check plugs and fuel lines and for vacuum leaks when I get home

Aston177

I have a weird issue. My car starts up fine when hot, pretty much instantly. But, if I leave it for 20 mins, it takes a while to start. It's like it's not getting fuel instantly. It would start, but it would take 2-3 seconds. Once it does start up, I can stop the car and start it back up instantly. I can repeat it as much as I like. Car would start back up instantly. It's only when I leave it for 20 is minutes. If I leave it for say an hour, things get better again.

What could this be?

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

2-3 seconds is nothing to worry about.

hadjidamus

Hi Guys,
I own a 2006 M/T and have just experienced issues with starting after a little maintenance on the intake. Car drove fine, got it home parked up and began work on it the next day. I removed stock air box and used a recharger kit on a K&N drop in filter. I proceeded to spray the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and then clean in and around the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Upon reinstalling, I noticed that the filter was a bit wet but I placed it back in the box and resassembled anyway.

I was unable to start from here on. The car cranked as normal but would not turn on. So I left it over night and the next day left the filter to dry a bit more then attempted to start again, NO LUCK.

I have since checked the battery, which was strong....Checked the spark of the spark plugs, which was normal....Checked the fuel delivery by disconnecting a fuel line (which sprayed up when car turned on).....Everything seems fine but the car would not start. I looked around to see if there were any loose hoses but did not see any.

Any advice or solutions? Thank you in advance!

hadjidamus

Someone has mentioned that it could be a damaged MAF sensor...Is it possible to start the car with a disconnected MAF? Will a bad or damaged MAF sensore prevent starting altogether? I have been searching different threads but none seem to give solutions to this specific problem. Please note, engine started fine leading up to my work on the air intake parts. So do not believe it to be starting motor, loss of compression, etc.

hadjidamus

Ok guys, brought in a Mazda technician to overlook the car....Found the MAF or IAP to be the cause of the problem....Forced engine to start and reset the computer....Car starts and runs but I can feel power loss. I will replace with a new MAF sensor and see if all is resolved.

Anthony Kevin

Just put in a new flywheel/clutch. Battery has been disconnected practically dead. I need to ******* know what's wrong with the car before I take a sledge hammer to this piece of **** excuse for a sports car. One day it was running fine the next day I couldn't even get it to turn on.