So Who belongs to the New engine club?
Thread Starter
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,136
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From: Surprise, Arizona
I'd hoped I'd never be posting in this thread, but...
New engine for me next week at 79,000 miles (failed compression test). Classic symptoms: difficult to start when hot, loss of power when engine hot.
2004 MT, no modifications, regular oil changes at dealer, driven normally (commuter car).
New engine for me next week at 79,000 miles (failed compression test). Classic symptoms: difficult to start when hot, loss of power when engine hot.
2004 MT, no modifications, regular oil changes at dealer, driven normally (commuter car).
Perfect timing indeed!
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Joined: May 2011
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From: New Jersey
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 380
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From: New Jersey
This is probably a really naive question lol, so don't laugh but...
A new engine doesn't need to be "flashed" with the latest software, right?
Meaning, a new engine just plugs into the existing software version already in my car's computer (which isn't replaced?), correct?
A new engine doesn't need to be "flashed" with the latest software, right?
Meaning, a new engine just plugs into the existing software version already in my car's computer (which isn't replaced?), correct?
Thread Starter
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 5
From: Surprise, Arizona
You're right. the engine does not get "flashed" unless you have a perv mechanic. However the PCM will have to re-learn some of your driving characteristics. Most times when the battery is removed, the PCM loses its stored info of your driving style.
Last edited by 09Factor; May 28, 2011 at 08:57 PM. Reason: rusty gramatical structure
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Georgetown
Fixed??
So I now have 1,400 klms. on my re-built, new cat and thermostat all replaced under warranty.
I replaced omp lines and nozzles, motor mounts and new coils, plugs and wires and the updated SSV were done just before re-built was put in.
The following has happened:
1) at about 400 klms. the engine completely cut out on me after about 1 hr. of driving. I was able to pull her over let it rest for about 10 mins., re-started it and drove the remaining 10 mins. home with no troubles. No cel's when this happened.
2) just today, after keeping the re-built under 4K rpm for the first 1,000 klms. I began bringing her slowly up to about 6K rpm at times.
Well; driving in 2nd at about 2K rpm I decided I'd go about half throtttle and bring her up to 6K rpm and when I did this the car just started bucking wildly and hesitating just like it did with the previous engine.
Again no cel's when this happened.
I have her booked into the dealership first thing Tuesday morning.
Right now it remains a mystery??.....we'll see what happens.....
other than the obvious - bad set of plugs, coils or wires and the possibility that I received a dud of a re-built engine from Mazda....... is there a possibility of a bad/malfunctioning CPU (or whatever the brains of the car is) ?? and has anyone else experienced a malfunctioning CPU?
getting a little frustrated now with this beautiful car......
I replaced omp lines and nozzles, motor mounts and new coils, plugs and wires and the updated SSV were done just before re-built was put in.
The following has happened:
1) at about 400 klms. the engine completely cut out on me after about 1 hr. of driving. I was able to pull her over let it rest for about 10 mins., re-started it and drove the remaining 10 mins. home with no troubles. No cel's when this happened.
2) just today, after keeping the re-built under 4K rpm for the first 1,000 klms. I began bringing her slowly up to about 6K rpm at times.
Well; driving in 2nd at about 2K rpm I decided I'd go about half throtttle and bring her up to 6K rpm and when I did this the car just started bucking wildly and hesitating just like it did with the previous engine.
Again no cel's when this happened.
I have her booked into the dealership first thing Tuesday morning.
Right now it remains a mystery??.....we'll see what happens.....
other than the obvious - bad set of plugs, coils or wires and the possibility that I received a dud of a re-built engine from Mazda....... is there a possibility of a bad/malfunctioning CPU (or whatever the brains of the car is) ?? and has anyone else experienced a malfunctioning CPU?
getting a little frustrated now with this beautiful car......
I had a new OEM fuel pump installed in March 2010 so this one didn't last long at all.
I premix at most with about 4 oz. of a good 2-cycle oil about 85-90% of the time.
So I will go ahead and get a new OEM pump installed and look into ordering a good aftermarket pump that doesn't clog with pre-mixing to keep as a back-up.
At least I received a full fuel injector cleaning at no charge, and the tech installed my BHR ignition kit at no charge too!
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 390
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From: Montreal,QC
Possible member of the new engine club.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/hard-starting-problems-possible-engine-replaced-217191/
Just got the news that the compression is bad. Waiting to find out what Mazda Canada says. I'm still under the extended warranty for the engine.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/hard-starting-problems-possible-engine-replaced-217191/
Just got the news that the compression is bad. Waiting to find out what Mazda Canada says. I'm still under the extended warranty for the engine.
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From: Georgetown
A MAF code was coming up.
There is a lot of residual oil in the air intake, I know this is a common problem. They cleaned the MAF and the code has gone.
I got them to put a new screw that holds in the IAT/MAF sensor as one of them was stripped.
I guess this weekend I'll be cleaning the oil out of the air intake and possibly the throttle body.
There is a lot of residual oil in the air intake, I know this is a common problem. They cleaned the MAF and the code has gone.
I got them to put a new screw that holds in the IAT/MAF sensor as one of them was stripped.
I guess this weekend I'll be cleaning the oil out of the air intake and possibly the throttle body.
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From: Montreal,QC
So this Rotary thing...?
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
He gave me the averaged reading. I'm not terribly interested in the nitty gritty details. They felt it was bad enough to file a warranty claim, so I'm not going to tell them they're wrong.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Just picked up the 8 with the "new" engine today and I am cautiously optimistic.
I drove about 60 miles after picking it up (to get back to the office), and my fuel gauge just barely dropped.
Either they screwed up me fuel gage, or the new engine is getting over 25 mpg on the highway.
So….. idk. Maybe my previous engine was f’d from the get go.
Oh- and the new (higher power) starter starts it like a high speed drill.
Anybody still on the original 04/05? starter should upgrade for sure.
The compression thing doesn't make sense- a freshly rebuilt Wankel has low compression until it breaks in. Maybe Mazda runs the rebuilds before putting them in customer cars? (shrug)
Oh, and this time I am premixing from the start. But I am giving the middle finger to the supposed break in cycle bull****. I treated the original engine exactly like the old car guys suggest... and it was worn the **** out at 40k miles with proper service and even premixing in the last 15k miles.
I drove about 60 miles after picking it up (to get back to the office), and my fuel gauge just barely dropped.
Either they screwed up me fuel gage, or the new engine is getting over 25 mpg on the highway.
So….. idk. Maybe my previous engine was f’d from the get go.
Oh- and the new (higher power) starter starts it like a high speed drill.
Anybody still on the original 04/05? starter should upgrade for sure.
The compression thing doesn't make sense- a freshly rebuilt Wankel has low compression until it breaks in. Maybe Mazda runs the rebuilds before putting them in customer cars? (shrug)
Oh, and this time I am premixing from the start. But I am giving the middle finger to the supposed break in cycle bull****. I treated the original engine exactly like the old car guys suggest... and it was worn the **** out at 40k miles with proper service and even premixing in the last 15k miles.
Just so everyone is clear your remans are built using precut side seals and from what I've read and witnessed with my own eyes the clearance on those side seals is... well its like a hot dog down a hallway, in the tolerance world.
Over time the side seals shrink causing low compression and when you start off with really loose seals you will wind up with low compression in a very short time. The idea of the engine break in to to get all the seals,springs, o-rings, etc matched up and broken-in properly so the engine at least has a chance. I'd keep it under 4k for at least 500 miles then do an oil change and the other 500 miles slowly bring the revs up.
Others have different opinions and experiences, my POV is it's only 1000 miles not like a while year you can do that in a month and it may give your engine some extra time.
I wasn't directing that at anyone in particular just letting everyone know.
Over time the side seals shrink causing low compression and when you start off with really loose seals you will wind up with low compression in a very short time. The idea of the engine break in to to get all the seals,springs, o-rings, etc matched up and broken-in properly so the engine at least has a chance. I'd keep it under 4k for at least 500 miles then do an oil change and the other 500 miles slowly bring the revs up.
Others have different opinions and experiences, my POV is it's only 1000 miles not like a while year you can do that in a month and it may give your engine some extra time.
I wasn't directing that at anyone in particular just letting everyone know.
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From: New Jersey
Oh terrific... someone said it was probably a side seal that failed on my original 04 (one rotor was OK, while the other failed compression test). So basically with the "new" engine going in right now, I'm just back in the same situation or risk? I'm not gaining any reliability over the original 04 with the "new" engine?
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From: New Jersey
I wouldn't. Oh I get it, I'm pretty frustrated too that mine gave out at 79,000 miles even though I followed the Owner's Manual for everything. But while babying it during break-in might not help, redlining it sure could hurt something.
But right, babying it during break-in didn't save mine either, nor regular oil changes. It might truly be a hit or miss thing, depending on the engine you get, and nothing we do or don't do can make much of a difference.
Still, one thing I do plan to try is a routine "decarb" (or whatever you call it) at the dealer every year or so (no, I can't do it myself in a condo parking lot, lol). And I'm guilty of driving it like a grandma (well, a slow grandma) the last few years, so I'll be sure to "redline a day keeps the carbon away" it this time
But right, babying it during break-in didn't save mine either, nor regular oil changes. It might truly be a hit or miss thing, depending on the engine you get, and nothing we do or don't do can make much of a difference.
Still, one thing I do plan to try is a routine "decarb" (or whatever you call it) at the dealer every year or so (no, I can't do it myself in a condo parking lot, lol). And I'm guilty of driving it like a grandma (well, a slow grandma) the last few years, so I'll be sure to "redline a day keeps the carbon away" it this time
What i am saying is by not doing a break in you are just speeding up the process.
They come out of the factory with a pretty large gap, but that doesn't mean the engine wont last you about 80k or so.
I'm just saying baby it for the first 1000 miles then beat the **** out of it daily to keep the carbon away.
They come out of the factory with a pretty large gap, but that doesn't mean the engine wont last you about 80k or so.
I'm just saying baby it for the first 1000 miles then beat the **** out of it daily to keep the carbon away.
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What i am saying is by not doing a break in you are just speeding up the process.
They come out of the factory with a pretty large gap, but that doesn't mean the engine wont last you about 80k or so.
I'm just saying baby it for the first 1000 miles then beat the **** out of it daily to keep the carbon away.
They come out of the factory with a pretty large gap, but that doesn't mean the engine wont last you about 80k or so.
I'm just saying baby it for the first 1000 miles then beat the **** out of it daily to keep the carbon away.
Why would they intentionally build the engines with large gaps?..
But even though I said what I said, I am trying to take it easy for the first few hundred miles. But you gotta do whats you gotta do when merging.....
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From: New Jersey
I pretty much don't know what to think anymore about the "new" engines. Some people in other threads say the quality control is better now, so the engines are quite an improvement. Others say it's worse or the same, and we're no better off than before. Some say starting out with the new flashes from day one prevents the problems we 04's had. Others say the design is just inherently flawed.
So who really knows? Not much you can do except not obsess (yea, wish me luck there) and treat it with reasonable caution and hope for the best.
So who really knows? Not much you can do except not obsess (yea, wish me luck there) and treat it with reasonable caution and hope for the best.
The point I was trying to get at is its inherent in the renesis so do your best to keep it alive.
Personally I didn't start seeing low compression until 126k, others have lasted even longer.
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I pretty much don't know what to think anymore about the "new" engines. Some people in other threads say the quality control is better now, so the engines are quite an improvement. Others say it's worse or the same, and we're no better off than before. Some say starting out with the new flashes from day one prevents the problems we 04's had. Others say the design is just inherently flawed.
So who really knows? Not much you can do except not obsess (yea, wish me luck there) and treat it with reasonable caution and hope for the best.
So who really knows? Not much you can do except not obsess (yea, wish me luck there) and treat it with reasonable caution and hope for the best.
Yeah. Considering what these engine replacements cost Mazda, you would think they would try everything to get the reliability up (to at least pass 100k miles before needing another engine).
On that note- when I picked up my RX8 with the new engine, I did notice they had another RX8 behind the shop covered in goats blood with a ring of fire on the ground around it and some hooded dude in a black cloak waiving a wooden staff around. It was remarkable to watch.
On a serious note- the local Wankel rebuilder said he liked to just let them sit and idle for hours after a rebuild, to let the seals all break in. Should we do that too?
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Montreal,QC
So I just got news from my dealership (Fairview Mazda in Montreal), they just got the ok from Mazda for the reman engine, I guess there is a backlog because they arent expecting it in Canada (Toronto) until June 17th. (Ironicaly thats by B-day).
Which means wont land in Montreal till the following Monday (20th) at the earliest. And that week is a 4 day week (24th June is national holiday).
I'm beginning to wonder if I'll get to drive my car before the end of summer damnit...
Do any of you know if its possible to get Mazda to rush things... Its ridiculous to wait so long. I cant beleive Mazda Canada doesnt hold at least 1 or 2 in stock in Toronto at all times.
Which means wont land in Montreal till the following Monday (20th) at the earliest. And that week is a 4 day week (24th June is national holiday).
I'm beginning to wonder if I'll get to drive my car before the end of summer damnit...
Do any of you know if its possible to get Mazda to rush things... Its ridiculous to wait so long. I cant beleive Mazda Canada doesnt hold at least 1 or 2 in stock in Toronto at all times.
