Yep, I'm good to go on that.

 

Nice!

 

I'm already a member but looks like I'm going back for seconds. My engine was replaced 3 years ago and I've put 12K miles on it. Dyno'd strong against other RX8's a year and a half ago. Now getting significant hot starting issues.

Premix with .5oz/gal Idemitsu and run 5-30 oil.

Did a compression test with an official Mazda compression tester and registered 5.5 @270 and 5.6 @274 on the lowest faces. Adjusts to 5.0 and 5.1 @250. Time to make an appointment with the dealer.

At this point I'm really stumped on the best way to take care of these motors.

 

Just sayin... its been well documented that 10-30 is the way to go. also I'd look at getting a sohn adapter.

Other than that the clearances Mazda set on their side seals are rather large IMO, I'm a noob builder so I don't have much to compare to. But I do know what came out of my engine had loose **** clearence in it, and thats why my engine didnt pass compression. The one OEM precut seal slide around way to much for me as well so I can only assume.

I went with cut to fit seals and we gave it .002-.003 on each face.

 

Yeah and what effect has engine temps have on Side Seal clearances?..

Mazda Japan Engineers and Makers have continued over the last decade (almost) with their "large" side seal tolerances...Why?..there must be a reason?, the ONLY update has been side seal springs in 2009.

 

Ash - have there been any series 2 engine failures from low compression yet ?

 

Howdy...Funny you should ask..

I was just talking (emailing this week) Mario who works as a Parts Supervisor for Mazda Australia VICTORIA (been there for over 30 years) on this subject and Series 1 Rotor Housings (which have not Stopped Production BTW and DO NOT go over to Series 2 Housings...never will, yes there is limited supply.. to use Mario's words "We have very limited quantities of this housing coming in for back orders. Japan have a large quantity on back order but are still producing them probably can’t keep up with production."

Sorry I digress....
NO, No Failures yet, BUT in Australia and NZ there have been 3 engines replaced in 2 years for free BTW, 2 because owners ripped out Sumps and kept driving (they did not see warning light and Buzzer??, yes apparently there is a buzzer when OIL gets too low??), the other one in your country had a loose Radiator Hose (Bottom) and owner cooked engine...that one only did 30 KMS.

There has been no run or use on "Key" Parts indicators like S2 Rotor Housings or Irons which are different by Part Number and design.

But none yet from Low Comprssions...too soon IMO.

 

Neither of which really have an impact IMHO.

The 10-30 is a subset of 5-30 oil right? 5-30 is faster flowing at low temp but still holds up the same at high temp correct. 10-30 should be less protective at startup if I understand SAE ratings.

Sohn is still limited by the coverage the OMP injection provides. It just injects better oil. Premixing Idemitsu should do one better than the Sohn IMHO.

 

10 and 5 are both for cold so 10 would be more preferable being that it will have more viscosity at startup and through the warm up process. you are right the the 30 is at operating temperature. From my understanding 10w-30 is the way to go. Or it might be 10w-40 I'm kind of hazy on that.

The sohn is limited in the sense that the omp doesnt crank out much, but that can be adjusted via an AP or ecu flash.

The key selling point for the $96 sohn adapter is that it pulls clean 2 cycle oil that is meant to be burnt in the combustion process and leaves little to no carbon residue. However the stock OMP will pull dirty carbon rich oil that is not meant to be burnt and sprays it into an engine that cannot deal well with carbon.

And that leads to premature engine failure.

Lubrication isn't always the issue its more the quality that the engine is seeing. With Mazdas suggested 7k oil change intervals I see that as the main problem.

 

Im sure the heat has a large effect on the clearances. Not sure what kind but I do know the looser the clearance the more chance it has for low compression and those things are loose.

Maybe I'm completely wrong but I'm pretty sure mazda switched to precut to maximize production and make the rebuilding process easier.

 

I have 3 in my gge 2nd hand but .....

That is good to hear all the same . Is the failure rate of the series 1 anything like what they see in the states ?

 

In in this cluuub

 

3am east coast time on a Saturday of a 3 day weekend... I vote drunk post.

 

Looks like I might be joining the club too.

Here is my thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/97-000-mile-rx8-checkup-200355/

 

 

LOL we've all been there. Cheers!

 

one month 2 days waiting for my car at the dealer finally got it and if anyone has every owned the new pontiac cars that crank in like one second you barely have to crank it well thats how mine is now i love it it cranks in less then 2 seconds yes i counted and even my tranny feels like butter now and i took my friends old/new clutch with 20k on it better then my 55k one and well worth the wait and wow it felt weird from going from my grand prix back to my 8 love it kinda hope it goes before the 100k so i get another one lol

 

I am considering my first RX8, a '10 R3 or GT manual, should I be worried about motor problems ?

I already know I'll be giving up a lot of power, especially torque compared to my LP9 9-3 Aero(V6Turbo motor by Holden/SAAB of course). It's a rocket on the highway.

 

I had my 9-3 2.0T at like...........22 psi. Neat cars, I wish I would've had a V6.

 

I just had mine done this week (low compression). With 65K on the ODO it was a good opportunity to change out a couple well worn clutch parts and motor mounts too. My overall experience at the dealership went very well.

I'm going to miss the Mazda 3 loaner car though - the radio worked REALLY WELL with my iPhone via Bluetooth!

Fingers crossed going forward.

 

I just got a call today saying i needed a new enigine under warranty and i just have to buy new coils , plugs,wires. He than said he has to wait for the people upstairs to give them ok amd id get a call from the manager nextweek. He than said i would need oil recepts which i onnly have 4 , because i have only owned the car 1 year and 10,000 km , He said that was fine. Is that true. He also said i could pick the car up and still drive it until the new engine arrives being the car still drives fine to me anyways just had a hard start. I guess i was used to it running klike ****.

 

Do NOT drive on an engine with low enough compression to claim the warranty! imy engine ran fine i had no problems with it one morning had a hard start so i booked an appointment for the following day and proceeded to drive to work. about 15 km down the highway without warning my first rotor blew a seal it was so rough that it cracked my clutch in 2 spots in the first jerk before i could disengage it. in the end i had to get a new engine core, cat, and rear o2 sensor from the blow out. if its done dont trust it for a minute i had no misfires or anything wrong other than one random hard start

 

Hi,


Hi,

I just got my Rx8 back today after they replaced the engine under warranty. Some hoses and bolts were also changed which i had to pay around $500 for.

When i went to get the car the air bag light was on (which was taken care of right away) and the check engine light was still on. Astonished at the fact that an engine replacement didn’t get the light to go off, i asked the service person to give me an explanation. He told me that the computer pulled a few codes and basically the light was on because of a shutter valve issue. He listed a few parts on my quote as a recommendation to change:

Shutter Valve
Gasket
Bolt
Cleaner

Parts including labor cost $700-800. He told me that this was nothing to do with the engine and hence couldn’t be covered under warranty. So I’ll need to get this work done in order for the light to go off. I asked him the urgency and repercussions of not doing it immediately, to which he responded “it isn’t very important and will not affect your engine so you can leave it for a while, however it needs to be taken care of.

My question is, does this really not seem like a big deal, and what exactly does the shutter valve do? What’s really the exact problem because the service guy wasn’t able to articulate the issue to well and was insisting that it is not a big deal?

I could really do with some advice from someone who actually knows what this problem is, because the engine light is really bothering me.

Apart from this the car is running really smooth and I’m loving the new engine.


Thanks for your help guys!

 

Info. on Secondary Shutter Valve here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/ssv-stuck-open-code-p2070-79403/

It's a big deal and your dealer should have picked up on the problem and fixed it while the engine was apart. They had to take all the parts off and could have easily swapped the valve for you when the engine was out.

I'd be pissed that he waited until you had to look at the friggin check engine light and tell him that it was on to put effort in to figuring this out. That's bullshit.

You should go back and demand that they swap it for cost of parts only since they should have picked up on it and recommended swapping it out when the motor was out. Who the hell gives you the car back with a friggin' check engine light on??

 

Thanks for the response bro!! i guess you can never trust the Mazda guys. I cant believe he said it wasnt a big deal at all.

I really am not planning on going back and arguing with the B****ds. I'm gonna have a specialist rotary mechanic (Neptune Speed) look at it.

I probably can take care of it till another 15 days. How dangerous could that be ?