Received bad reman motor from Mazda
09-17-2012, 03:58 PM
#26
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Yup. I know 200F is fine. Only hit it a few times, either under severe flogging or idling in >95F heat. It's not that 200F worries me, it's that I only have 20-30F of buffer before it's damage time.
I prefer 170F, since that is 50-60F of buffer
I prefer 170F, since that is 50-60F of buffer
09-17-2012, 04:07 PM
#27
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Yeah I get a bit of over cooling now with my secondary radiator in the cooler weather we have been seeing in the morning but that is only at cruise, as soon as I get into boost it heats everything up nicely. But I have to be really pushing it to get above 210F.
09-17-2012, 05:02 PM
#30
My car is normally around 180 when I'm just cruising, and easily gets to 200 and above when I step on it during the day. I live in Miami, so everyday is pretty much 98 degrees more or less. Not much I can do about it though, I mean I live in subtropical climate location it's hot all year long...
09-17-2012, 05:04 PM
#31
09-17-2012, 05:35 PM
#32
I used to leave in Texas, in Houston to be exact. So I know what both climates are like. Houston and Miami are both very hot places, but the difference is that Houston is dry and hot, so it's like just feeling the raw heat on your back, just pure heat. But at least in Houston I could actually experience winter! In Miami we have humidity, so like you said it kinda "helps", but at the same time no. Humidity + heat, is like feeling hot and sweaty. It's not dry, but it's a nasty muggy like feeling that just sucks lol, and Miami is almost the same all year long. Winter in Miami? We have winters? 
09-17-2012, 05:41 PM
#33
Yeah I am from Florida and Hawaii originally so the Texas heat was an eye opener for me as well to say the least. But past a certain temperature hot is hot.
09-17-2012, 05:59 PM
#34
You have just been lucky is all and if you have temps in that range even on the track then you need to do some work. On factory coolant seals you are playing with fire at anything above 230F. My last reman died of a failed coolant seal and I know exactly when the damage occurred and it was one short lived trip to 240F at redline when the water pump belt failed mid corner. It was only for a minute until I found a safe place to pull over but that was enough to do it.
I agree the temps are high and maybe I'm lucky. Its tough to keep temps down in AZ on the track and there's not anything else I can do besides getting a better radiator or adding a secondary one or removing the A/C condenser but I don't have money for that and I'm not giving up A/C till summer is over. My motor is the original and has over 100k and has seen 240F water temps more than two dozen times. Has never overflowed and doesn't consume coolant. Engine is coming out for a rebuild after this season so hopefully it lasts till then.
09-17-2012, 06:40 PM
#37
FWIW my first reman died around 1200 miles. First issue was the water pump was not installed correctly which was replaced under warranty at around 800 miles. Then the motor had major issues at 1200. The dealership said it was a bad build so I got another reman. All the work was done at the dealership so it was covered.
09-17-2012, 06:44 PM
#38
Here's wht happenned when I had a bad engine installed in a Chev .....it was a factory short block..that had problems with the valvetrain. After Chev checked out that it was indeed a problem with the shortblock that involved using incorrect parts...they paid to have the motor Re/re'd......they paid the whole bill...and it wasn't done at a dealer either.
I wouldn't let them off the hook too easily...why should you have to swllow a loss like that because they did a poor job on the engine
I wouldn't let them off the hook too easily...why should you have to swllow a loss like that because they did a poor job on the engine
09-17-2012, 06:46 PM
#39
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Back in June was on a trip up the Cali coast to SF area for the US Open.
Going up along the coast HWY 1 etc.. bangin it hard when I had the opportunity
and maybe saw 200-205F ambient at 80F. Coming home we took the
inland route (its faster) down I-5 thru San Joaquin valley with ambient at 100-105F
Cruising at 70-75mph and 185F water temp, oil about the same.
Going up along the coast HWY 1 etc.. bangin it hard when I had the opportunity
and maybe saw 200-205F ambient at 80F. Coming home we took the
inland route (its faster) down I-5 thru San Joaquin valley with ambient at 100-105F
Cruising at 70-75mph and 185F water temp, oil about the same.
10-05-2012, 11:00 PM
#41
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Update
Alright here is an update. I had to pay to send the motor to Mazda and they told me the installer dropped debris in the motor and damaged it. I highly doubt that as my shop does impeccable work and make sure everything is clean before installation. Anyways here are pictures of the damage.
10-06-2012, 06:22 AM
#43
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Unless that debris was a long and thing piece of metal about the size and shape of a seal, no, I wouldn't call that "foreign" debris. More like "domestic" debris from it's own seals.
There are some pics around here of what a small nut does when dropped into the engine. The damage is far far far worse.
There are some pics around here of what a small nut does when dropped into the engine. The damage is far far far worse.
10-06-2012, 11:18 AM
#45
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To me, those marking are obviously from a side seal. I am betting that the seal came out when they were stacking the engine, which is why it never worked for you. Either the people who are looking at the engine don't know what the hell they are looking at or they are intentionally lying. Check the exhaust to see if the seal is in there somewhere, it could be lodged in the header or cat (unless it was still in there when they took it apart and are not saying anything)... Then again if it never started it may not have had the power to eject it very far... either way you getting screwed man, sorry to hear it...
10-06-2012, 03:43 PM
#46
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Alright guys thanks for the input. I have contacted my lawyer and we're drawing up some paperwork. I'll try to reach them on Monday and see if we can sort this out without taking any legal action. Everyone, thanks for the second opinion. It's sometimes hard to think straight when you're in the middle of it.
10-06-2012, 03:47 PM
#47
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Also do you guys think that the gash is too big to be a side seal and might be from the apex seal? They noted that all the seals on the front rotor were stuck so that might be why they're saying it wasn't from the seal.
10-06-2012, 03:49 PM
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2nd row, center picture. The side seal on the right is missing from the groove. The one on the left is still there. You can see that the groove right across there is about the same size as the groove that is missing the seal.
10-06-2012, 05:57 PM
#49
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RIWWP good call!!! I just noticed that. I'll keep you guys posted with the situation. Might be an opportune time to take advantage of some porting.
10-06-2012, 06:03 PM
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I'm still hunting for the thread of the pics of when someone dropped a small nut into the intake and started the engine anyway... Damage was several orders more catastrophic. Yours is exactly in line with seal failure.
From apex seal failure (note the similarities, though this one was clearly apex seals)
rx7club thread: http://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-.../#post10600475
Yes, those are from an RX-8 engine, the guy was starting a REW swap
From apex seal failure (note the similarities, though this one was clearly apex seals)
rx7club thread: http://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-.../#post10600475
Yes, those are from an RX-8 engine, the guy was starting a REW swap
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-06-2012 at 06:12 PM.