You can get a plate that covers the exhaust pipe fitting and then remove the entire assembly. Search for "air pump delete" for a pointer to the little plate, and procedures. Be sure to unplug everything from the harness, or it will generate an error. I would link them, but I have to head out.

It is possible to reach the bolts for where the pipe comes off the exhaust through the wheel well on that side with a lot of socket extensions. That is the hardest part.

I do not recommend running with it failed unless you are sure that the exhaust pipe valve is closed. I do not know how that valve works, or if you can just disconnect the vacuum line to force it closed (someone help here please). If exhaust blows up that pipe, and the valve is open, it will melt the pump.

 

Here is a picture of a simple blocking plate from my car:


Air pump delete:
- disconnect the cable from the pump and from the red connector and remove it entirely
- remove screws from air pump and his "support"
- BE CAREFUL not to loose the 3 washers which are between the pump and the "support"
- detach ignition module cable from support and leave cable+module there
- remove support
- remove the vacuum hose from air valve and close the hose (or remove hose from solenoid and close solenoid)
- remove 2 screws between the pipe and the air valve (you can slightly bend the hose between pump and valve, no need to remove it)
- remove pump+air valve (BE CAREFUL with metal gasket between valve and pipe), don't remove vertical air pump support with baro sensor (or at least don't remove or disconnect baro sensor)
- find the location in my picture detach pipe (don't loose the other metal gasket) and remove it from the hood, put gasket again in place and add the blocking plate

ok, all done and remember that if
- air valve solenoid is working, so no CEL for it
- air pump relay is working, so no CEL for it
you will anyway have a P0410 because when you start the car, and ecu starts air pump, front lambda sensor feels that there's not enough oxygen and ecu cries.

also, instead of old "false" lean afr (18-19) you will see "real" car startup afr without air pump cheating, which is rich (like 11).

Sorry for errors but english is not my main language.

 

MAO your idea is great but IS the problem only at AIR PUMP what else can start the air pump?
At what parts of engine do it depens?

 

Please take look at:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...68#post4142168

 

I have solved problem. It was wire who went from battery ( - ) to car mass( mass is under battery you will see it) , when the car lose mass from this wire car have problem. It take me 3 weeks to fix it

 

No powe on the wires