dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The SSV ticking is often a pinhole leak in the actuator diaphram..

ECU tells it to open ......looses vac...and it closes....ECU says open...it opens till it bleeds down....you get it

Is the car throwing an SSV code?...

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

Not any codes for the SSV, it ticks at idle only, if I touch the actuator arm it stops. From what I can see I believe it just contacts the side of the diaphragm housing and that causes the noise. I've tried rotating the actuator slightly and retightening it but have yet to find a position that keeps it form doing it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

check the solenoid as well......if it is leaking a bit it can casue oscillations in the opening line

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I tested all of the vacuum lines and solenoids when I was hunting down this power loss issue. Unless something broke since then it should still be fine. The ticking started after we pulled the SSV a couple of months ago to clean it.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

Upon further investigation it would appear that the loud ticking I noticed yesterday is not in fact the SSV but is the furthest back coil(rear trailing). If I put a finger on it or wiggle the wire a bit it goes away for a second. I'm not sure if the wire is making an incomplete connection or of the coil is vibrating against the grounding plate. I'm going brakes today so I will take a look when I get in there.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

Fixed the ticking noise, but... the original issue with the rich spike and hesitation has come back.

So it seems that everytime I rip the engine bay down and pull the battery, it get's fixed for a day or so, which would suggest to me a fueling issue still. So what's the next step? Buy all new injectors and replace them all? How can I test the pressure damper?

I'm really out of ideas, so anything anyone has, I'm all ears.

Carbon Fibr

Yeah. Take your biggest guess or gut feeling of what it is.
And replace it with new.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I hate taking that approach....

So upon looking at my old logs a lot closer, it appears that I start to go rich before the APV opens and the APV opening helps it a little bit but once it's rich, it can't fully recover.

So what happens around 5500rpm that could cause a car to go rich?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Suggest you get a scanner and read your fuel trims at idle and cruise . Sounds like you might be generating a big positive trim . What causes this normally is a vacuum leak but it could be something else .

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I mean this in the most sincere way possible, but I've posted tons of data on all of that, I do have a scanner and one of the first things we tried was hunting for a vacuum leak, my fuel trims at idle are usually between +1-2% at idle for the LTFT and pretty close to±.5% on the STFT.

Just to check my work with someone who would be able to give a solid answer, the injectors that would feed the APV are the ones on both ends of the secondary fuel rail correct? And the car should be going OL right around 5500rpm, which might have something to do with the issue maybe?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Fuel trim at idle is NOT the same as fuel trim under load . That is the trim you want to check .
Also - there are no injectors feeding APV
And - yes the ECU going into open loop could have a LOT to do with your issue - which is why you need to know the LTFT under load .

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any logs to back this up, but from just watching my logger while driving it stays under 5% LTFT under pretty much every condition.

I know they aren't directly feeding the APV, the same ones that feed the SSV runners feed the APV as well, or am I mistaken?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Maybe do a log showing ltft and stft . If afrs suddenly dives the instant it goes into open loop the stft value just before that will useful.

5% is more than ideal but probably not enough to cause your issue .

nope - They feed the secondary ports only. That's why it's call the SSV (secondary shutter valve)

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I'll get a log on my way to work in the morning including that.

So the APVs have no fuel even going through the runners, it's just increased airflow? And one reason I was suspecting injectors was because I forced my APV to be open all the time and the car was dodgy below 5k rpm but pulled fine and never went rich, which seems odd to me.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

Alrighty rotary gurus...

I still haven't figured out this issue, I've managed to link it to starting exactly when my car goes OL, my car has been smelling strongly of oil(think 2stroke engine), but no extra oil consumption or leaks anywhere.

I've also swapped just about every sensor in the car to no avail. Can't figure out why this thing wants to go so rich, the fuel trims are well within where they should be.

The fact that the issue goes away when the car is really warm(engine bay heatsoak, not coolant temps) and isn't as bad now that the weather is warming up seems to be a pretty big clue but I really can't think of anything that would behave like that.

Does anyone have ANY ideas? I'm willing to try just about anything at this point.

RufusVonStorm

Did you ever try reseting the ECU?

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

What exactly do you mean by 'resetting' the ECU? I've reset the E-Shaft profiles quite a few times, as well as the NVRAM, KAM, and Fuel Trims.

RufusVonStorm

Yeah that's what I meant. And there's no clue from the oil or coolant temps? What do they look like

And I read that you replaced two of the coils, have you thought about doing all new coils?

How long since you had new plugs and wires?

04Green

iTrader: (1)

From left field.... Keying off a few other posts... And a bitch of a time troubleshooting my 6.

Check all the intake plumbing after the MAF, especially the accordion hose and any fittings. You are looking for cracks, either at the bottom of the little valleys or at a connection. Things that will open when the motor shifts at high torque (or as high as we get) then seals back up at idle, or low torque, like when you installed it with the engine off. Problem fades when the rubber gets nice and soft, like when it is really hot. Problem comes and goes based on who touched the damn thing last. Took me 2 weeks to find my problem, and then only found it by accident. Engine was running, I was poking around, I leaned on the hose and the engine died.

It was good that there was beer within 15 feet.

Hope it helps.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I only replaced two of the coils because they had all been replaced within the last year(thank god for lifetime warranties) and the plugs look fine, replaced at the same time as the coils, and has new wires on it.

I've thought about the vacuum leak thing, but since it's going rich that doesn't make sense to me. It would get more air than it's accounting for and end up not having enough fuel. At least that's my understanding, right?

I don't have a way to monitor oil temps but my coolant temp is always fine, during an episode it can either be right at 180, or up to 210 if I've been sitting in traffic and the issue will happen either way.

shadowraven

Just an idea or two as this really is a very tricky one, by no way saying these are right but incase it helps- It could be a leak and due to the extra air that you would think would make it run lean a sensor in the engine detects it being too lean and to avoid detonation over compensates by running rich? The crack may be small and the expansion from being heatsoaked seals it up, or the air is less dense and so isn't tripping the sensor?
I do know someone who had a similar issue, looked everywhere for a leak and found nothing, eventually by pure chance when pulling the engine found a small hairline crack in the lower intake manifold that was the cause.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

I'll look over it again, from the data logs I've pulled it doesn't seem to go lean anywhere though, it stays right at the commanded AFR until going open loop and then tapers rich from there, but never goes lean.

I wish I had a dyno somewhere close, then I'd test for vacuum leaks while the car was under load, would make things a lot easier.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

So other projects have subsided, and I'm back on the hunt for this issue.

Willing to look into any and all possibilities as long as it doesn't involve throwing lots of money blindly at it, I've done that enough.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking of just starting from the beginning again and seeing where it leads.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

What if.... I'm having an oiling issue... and let's say it's dumping more oil than it should but only when I'm above a certain load level. That would cause things to rich, explain the smell... but I have no idea what would cause that sort of thing without throwing a code, and I'm still consuming my normal amount of oil.

I don't know a lot about the OMP system, and can't seem to find any straight answers out there, could someone give me a run down on where it pulls it's data from and how it controls the amount of oil injected?

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

So I decided to take things apart again and start testing things to see if anything seemed any more apparent that before, and I found this...



There is still wet oil film in the primary runners of the LIM, as well as a slight misting of oil throughout the UIM from about where the PCV hose attaches, on the wall furthest towards the outside and then finally turning to an actual wet film as it approaches the LIM.



And there is a lot of carbon build up in the runnings that attach lower down, as well as the smaller portion of the UIM that attaches to them.

If I'm not mistaken, the center runners go to the primary and secondary ports, while the two smaller circular ones are what run to the aux ports. No oil is making it past the throttle body into the intake of the car though, the backside of the throttle body blutterly has some light oil on it, and the front is completely clean as well as the accordion tube, airbox, and filter. The car has not had it's oil overfilled, and the oil is not coming from the vent hose from the filler neck, it is clean in the accordion tube.

Now I'm trying to figure out if the oil is coming from the engine and getting blown back through the intake, or if it is coming from the PCV and getting sucked into the engine, I really don't know how to tell that, besides running the car with the PCV vented to atmosphere and capping it on the intake. Now me second concern is the carbon build up in the aux port runners... there shouldn't be anything getting back past the valves into the LIM right?