Started to redline my car today in first gear, got to around 9.5k RPMs for a good 2-3 seconds, didnt beep once. Anyone have ideas? didnt see anything like this on the forums.

 

I feel like I've heard this problem before. Does the beep come on when you leave your headlights on and open the door? Or don't put a seatbelt on? I think those are all related. If I recall it was a fuse?

Check the kickpanel, couldn't hurt.

 

its beeps when i do those things, but not when i redline for some reason.

 

Then don't take it up that high.

Best HP is near 8k anyways.

 

I dont usually take it up that high, i try to conserve as much gas as possible so i shift around 4.5k. wanted to redline it atleast once, and didnt beep, just want to know why.

 

The buzzer is part of the insturment cluster's circuit board.
If it were a fuse, it would be the 15A ROOM fuse and nothing on the dash would work.

There is a diagnostics screen to test the buzzer:
1. Put the key in the ignition
2. Push and hold the odometer button
3. Turn the key to the 'ON' position (do not start the car)
4. Continue to hold the odometer button until 'test' appears in the lower right corner
5. Once 'test' appears, you can release the button
6. Now push (not hold) the odometer button to scroll through various numbered options
7. Stop when you reach the desired output (which is 14 for the buzzer)
8. After a full second the output signal should toggle (ex: light illuminates, gauge sweeps)
* Some have an on/off switch (ex: Buckle switch changes state when the seat belt is buckled)
9. To exit from the output diagnostic, simply turn the key to the 'off' position and back on.

 

Going to bump this thread saying that I have the same problem, and diags for the buzzer *do* work.

I have a 40th Anniversary edition if it matters - dunno if they didn't have the buzzer or not.

 

In mine, the beep is kinda fint (different beep than the lights on/seatbelt, etc). Lots of times, I can't hear it over the engine noise.

 

i know the same thing is happing to me i would love to find out whats going on

 

my car does not beep at redline. does not matter the car will not go any higher it will shut down, unless you've done something to your car..

 

Same thing happened to mine last night, car is bone stock.

 

Mine randomly started beeping finally lol.

 

You're not reving high enough. Go faster!

 

my car beeps but only when i have it in neutral while I'm driving ill redline it just to hear the beep and it never dose can someone tell me why??

 

The beep isn't very loud are you sure your exhaust or wind noise are not masking it? It's almost impossible for me to hear the beep with the windows down.

 

+1 especially with non res. mid-pipe and cat-back installed.

 

This week at a track day I hit the fuel cutoff a few times and realised I was not hearing the beep. Never had this problem before and did take my helmet off to check. Yes still get beeps for not leaving keys in etc. Has anybody actually fixed this issue?

 

you need to learn how not to rely on that, hearing it means you already missed the shift point by a mile.

.

 

Doesn't answer my question plus what you are saying is rubbish. At 8500 I have not missed my shift point by a mile. If I shift at 8500 from 2nd to 3rd it will drop to 6200. To get the best out of a RX8 on track you want to keep it above 6000. Also when you are busy on the track you cannot be checking the tacho all the time, even F1 drivers have lights to tell them when to change gear.

 

Because I don’t anything about any of that, right?

but ok, it’s not the first, nor likely last time I ever got poo-poo’d by a noobster.

.

 

I was saying you provided no possible suggestions for fixing the fault. I may be fairly new to this forum but not to tracking cars. What range of RPM do you think you should use on a track to get the best out of the car?

 

there was a reason the Formula Pro Mazda racecars with Renesis engines were recommended to not exceed about 8600 rpm. Those were also fully hand blueprinted engines with micro-balanced rotating assemblies, RX7 depth Iannetti ceramic apex seals, oil system modifications, and so on.

As indicated by many dyno graphs, most Renesis engines will make peak power in the lower 8000 rpm range, it falls off pretty quick after that. It doesn’t feel like it, but it does. Not only are you going slower, but the rotor seals are seeing highly accelerated wear. Which in turn is less and less power output over time.

Can you afford a new engine annually for ensuring the highest output? Kind of doubting it.

reduce weight, lower gearing either by differential or tire OD, a shorter ratio transmission, a properly built engine outputting the true Renesis potential; not really possible to say without knowing what ruleset and finances you’re working with. Otherwise it has a staged intake for a reason assuming the engine condition isn’t the issue. If it’s only making 180 whp then revving it out is kind of moot.
.

 

Thanks appreciate the reply. In Oz we run a RX8 cup series which is a budget race series running standard S1 with the main mods being suspension, tyres, clutch, brakes. Running the normal about 12 minute races the group has never had a significant engine failure, more like often transmission, fuel, or electrical. Ric Shaw recently did the Bathurst 6hr in an RX8 cup car without any issues apart from some pom hitting the kill switch by accident. Depends on tracks whether it is better holding a gear at high RPM or shifting up to get best time. No not planning on a rebuild for a few years as they cost about 8-10k down here and I only paid 5900 for the car, plus about 3k for suspension, clutch and brakes. Anyway cutting to the chase any idea why I am not getting the beep?