New Engine @ 19,000 miles
04-20-2005, 07:06 PM
#51
shovin' into overdrive...
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warming up ur car for 5 mintues??!?
well my engine died at idle once for no reason. I was at a light and it checked off...i disregarded this as bad gas...Do you think this will have any long term effects?
well my engine died at idle once for no reason. I was at a light and it checked off...i disregarded this as bad gas...Do you think this will have any long term effects?
04-24-2005, 07:59 PM
#52
a.k.a. WhITeRE8
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i have like 17,000 miles on my 8 in about 1 year and i kinda got this problem too. my car takes a long time or a few times to start it up and sometimes it shakes like hell when i put it to drive while my foot was still on the brake. so i dunno whats goin on to my 8 and i dunno how to tell the dealer to check it because it only happen sometimes. im wondering in this case is it possible for mazda to do a new engine swap? would be happy for some advice from someone...thanx
04-24-2005, 11:18 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by SiLVeRE8
i have like 17,000 miles on my 8 in about 1 year and i kinda got this problem too. my car takes a long time or a few times to start it up and sometimes it shakes like hell when i put it to drive while my foot was still on the brake. so i dunno whats goin on to my 8 and i dunno how to tell the dealer to check it because it only happen sometimes. im wondering in this case is it possible for mazda to do a new engine swap? would be happy for some advice from someone...thanx
Is yours with the 6 spd Man tranny, and were you the original owner (i.e. it's been well taken care of from the beginning) ??
04-25-2005, 01:00 PM
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This has got to be the scariest thread on here - The thread of death.
A month ago my car started after about 15 sec of turning over for the first time. Then, a week later my family was in the car with me when I started it out of the garage with about a 10sec turnover. That same day, on the way home the car quit as my dad was driving decelerating to a stoplight. I asked him if he stalled it out and he said no "I just pushed the clutch in."
Then the next day it quit on me. It was also missing pretty badly when I got home and walked around it listening to the exhaust in the driveway. I chalked it all up on the gas I bought the day before it all started but reading this thread I will now observe more carefully.
My car always had a slight rough idle, never totally smooth. I visited the dealer and was there the second day the car was available to drive. I was told that none of the salespeople were able to drive it and only 3 of them had driven an RX8 (mine) with a client. The car had 47 miles on it after my drive and the day I was there it had been driven by one of the 2 salespeople with the buyer who's credit fell through - the rotors were warm.
Point? I don't believe my car was hot rodded. They had 3 sales drives before me.
A month ago my car started after about 15 sec of turning over for the first time. Then, a week later my family was in the car with me when I started it out of the garage with about a 10sec turnover. That same day, on the way home the car quit as my dad was driving decelerating to a stoplight. I asked him if he stalled it out and he said no "I just pushed the clutch in."
Then the next day it quit on me. It was also missing pretty badly when I got home and walked around it listening to the exhaust in the driveway. I chalked it all up on the gas I bought the day before it all started but reading this thread I will now observe more carefully.
My car always had a slight rough idle, never totally smooth. I visited the dealer and was there the second day the car was available to drive. I was told that none of the salespeople were able to drive it and only 3 of them had driven an RX8 (mine) with a client. The car had 47 miles on it after my drive and the day I was there it had been driven by one of the 2 salespeople with the buyer who's credit fell through - the rotors were warm.
Point? I don't believe my car was hot rodded. They had 3 sales drives before me.
Last edited by RodsterinFL; 04-25-2005 at 01:02 PM.
04-25-2005, 01:57 PM
#56
Mentalhealth is overrated
Originally Posted by Mazdaspeedgirl
Yep, that's right. This tops off the tranny rebuild we had done at 10,000 miles (SEVERE grindage).
It began as a simple thing, really. I took the car in for delayed starting. No, this was not the typical dragging start that is related to the battery. The starter cranked the engine at normal speed. It was taking about 10 seconds of cranking to start. Sometimes it wouldn't start, but it would start right up on the second round of cranking.
A simple fix, I thought. I figured maybe the spark plugs were getting gummy. I am friends with the head Mazda mechanic at our dealership here. He checked the plugs, but they were fine. Out of curiosity, and perhaps because the plugs were already out, he checked the compression on the motor. He said Mazda minimum standards were that the compression be at 98% on the rotors. Mine was diagnosed as 84% on the front rotor and 74% (
) on the rear rotor.
The service manager called Mazda about the issue because my poor car's motor was quite worn at only 18,992 miles. It took much deliberation, but they decided to warranty the motor (as if they had a choice
). They were asking questions about modifications to the car from exhaust to even if it had after market wheels!!!
Anyhoo, I think my 8 will be one of the poor damned souls, like many of the FDs.
I am by far not complaining. I love my car, but if she is going to need engines replaced in that kind of time frame, I will be forced to get rid of her.
Just a word of warning for you guys, if anything like the problems I was having happens, get the compression checked. Hell, I'd have them do it anyway, especially because my car was running just fine once started (it was idling a little rough though). We'd have never known, if it had not been for my friend. Who knows--the engine prolly would have worn completely out just out of warranty. That would surely suck.
It began as a simple thing, really. I took the car in for delayed starting. No, this was not the typical dragging start that is related to the battery. The starter cranked the engine at normal speed. It was taking about 10 seconds of cranking to start. Sometimes it wouldn't start, but it would start right up on the second round of cranking.
A simple fix, I thought. I figured maybe the spark plugs were getting gummy. I am friends with the head Mazda mechanic at our dealership here. He checked the plugs, but they were fine. Out of curiosity, and perhaps because the plugs were already out, he checked the compression on the motor. He said Mazda minimum standards were that the compression be at 98% on the rotors. Mine was diagnosed as 84% on the front rotor and 74% (
) on the rear rotor.The service manager called Mazda about the issue because my poor car's motor was quite worn at only 18,992 miles. It took much deliberation, but they decided to warranty the motor (as if they had a choice
). They were asking questions about modifications to the car from exhaust to even if it had after market wheels!!!Anyhoo, I think my 8 will be one of the poor damned souls, like many of the FDs.
I am by far not complaining. I love my car, but if she is going to need engines replaced in that kind of time frame, I will be forced to get rid of her.
Just a word of warning for you guys, if anything like the problems I was having happens, get the compression checked. Hell, I'd have them do it anyway, especially because my car was running just fine once started (it was idling a little rough though). We'd have never known, if it had not been for my friend. Who knows--the engine prolly would have worn completely out just out of warranty. That would surely suck.
Well my car is a manual ans I had the engine replaced at arounf 4000k. Same thing compression gone.
It was the exact opposite of the flooding thing. After the car warmed up it would not start again if turned off. It was replaced and has been perfect since then.
04-25-2005, 02:38 PM
#57
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I wonder how many potential buyers have been lost by reading this thread. This is going to fall along the lines of "1 bad experience equals 10 good ones". Scary. I guess every new model of car is going to have some bad seeds.
To anyone who doesn't already know, it's mormal to have a bit of vibration when at idle (1000-800rpms), which is more like a purr. But, I'm guessing that's not the type of rough idle being talked about by some of you.
All I can say is that my car has been fine. I haven't had the latest flash (N), which is supposed to take care of the "rough" idle and the lull at 6000rpms, so I'll have that done sometime soon. I only have just over 9000 miles in 13 months, so I suppose I could experience some problems in the future, but if (and I'm not pointing fingers or making accusations) you do what the user manual says (and Racing Beat) about breaking in your car and the whole warming up procedure, your engine SHOULD be long lived. TG for warranties. I was actually a little apprehensive when I bought my 8 because it had 192 miles on it, but I went on a 20 mile test drive; the same route the majority of potential buyers were advised to take, and there weren't really any areas where I could beat on the throttle, so I was a little reassured by that.
I guess my question is...was there a noticeable trailing off of engine performance??? I don't hot rod my car, but I do take her out to a nice twisty road to stretch every now and again, so I would hope to notice if something wasn't right.
A word of advice; Never buy a car that was born on a Friday, even if it's from Japan.
To anyone who doesn't already know, it's mormal to have a bit of vibration when at idle (1000-800rpms), which is more like a purr. But, I'm guessing that's not the type of rough idle being talked about by some of you.
All I can say is that my car has been fine. I haven't had the latest flash (N), which is supposed to take care of the "rough" idle and the lull at 6000rpms, so I'll have that done sometime soon. I only have just over 9000 miles in 13 months, so I suppose I could experience some problems in the future, but if (and I'm not pointing fingers or making accusations) you do what the user manual says (and Racing Beat) about breaking in your car and the whole warming up procedure, your engine SHOULD be long lived. TG for warranties. I was actually a little apprehensive when I bought my 8 because it had 192 miles on it, but I went on a 20 mile test drive; the same route the majority of potential buyers were advised to take, and there weren't really any areas where I could beat on the throttle, so I was a little reassured by that.
I guess my question is...was there a noticeable trailing off of engine performance??? I don't hot rod my car, but I do take her out to a nice twisty road to stretch every now and again, so I would hope to notice if something wasn't right.
A word of advice; Never buy a car that was born on a Friday, even if it's from Japan.
05-03-2005, 09:35 AM
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every manufacturer goes through this with brand new engine models....it's honestly not that big a deal.
if your engine goes, get it replaced and life goes on.
i'd be wanting something to happen to the engine if i were all of you, because the replacement engine you'll get is sure to have all the latest updates...something to think about.
if your engine goes, get it replaced and life goes on.
i'd be wanting something to happen to the engine if i were all of you, because the replacement engine you'll get is sure to have all the latest updates...something to think about.
05-04-2005, 08:07 PM
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I have a bit of a problem with mazdaspeedgirl? ex-employee of the dealer (were you fired. You autocross and don't know how to break in a new engine? There is something a bit lame about these post? Disgruntled ex employee? Post just aren't adding up right. Knowlege but pleading ignorance?
05-04-2005, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmhr1
I have a bit of a problem with mazdaspeedgirl? ex-employee of the dealer (were you fired. You autocross and don't know how to break in a new engine? There is something a bit lame about these post? Disgruntled ex employee? Post just aren't adding up right. Knowlege but pleading ignorance?
I don't really know how to take that either..
And 6-7 engines in Lubbock Tx is really wack if you ask me.
05-07-2005, 02:22 PM
#68
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Update:
About the engine, it now has 1,000 miles on the new motor. We are having some problem with the check engine light flashing on and off for random periods of time, ranging from 10 seconds to 5 minutes. Each time it does this, it has no information, or rather no code was stored.
The other day, the CEL came on and stayed on after a slight hiccup while I was accelerating at about 7,300 rpm. I took her in to find out that the code said "Auxiliary Port Motor Stuck". Hmm.
The mechanic took the whole assembly apart, tested the AP motor and said everything checked out fine. He put it back together and said it was running okay (I told him to run the CRAP out of it like I do).
But last night the light kept doing the flashing thing and finally came on to a solid CEL. He already ordered a new AP motor, so we'll see if that fixes it next week.
I am thinking this is unrelated and just happened coincidentally, but he told me that most of the new motors are causing the check engine light to flash randomly when accelerating. *shrugs* So I guess the engine light flashing is a totally separate problem than the CEL code for the AP motor. But it's hard to say when the ECU has no code for the light flashing only.
He also said that some that are having the CEL flashing only have a code for "Engine Misfire", which he says is impossible. I would think that detonation=Apex seal destruction. The car is still running great.
Anyhoo, I am going to update my post with this info to share with others.
I am glad I have such a wiling to help out dealership. And for those who have asked, I am definately keeping the car.
About the engine, it now has 1,000 miles on the new motor. We are having some problem with the check engine light flashing on and off for random periods of time, ranging from 10 seconds to 5 minutes. Each time it does this, it has no information, or rather no code was stored.
The other day, the CEL came on and stayed on after a slight hiccup while I was accelerating at about 7,300 rpm. I took her in to find out that the code said "Auxiliary Port Motor Stuck". Hmm.
The mechanic took the whole assembly apart, tested the AP motor and said everything checked out fine. He put it back together and said it was running okay (I told him to run the CRAP out of it like I do).
But last night the light kept doing the flashing thing and finally came on to a solid CEL. He already ordered a new AP motor, so we'll see if that fixes it next week.
I am thinking this is unrelated and just happened coincidentally, but he told me that most of the new motors are causing the check engine light to flash randomly when accelerating. *shrugs* So I guess the engine light flashing is a totally separate problem than the CEL code for the AP motor. But it's hard to say when the ECU has no code for the light flashing only.
He also said that some that are having the CEL flashing only have a code for "Engine Misfire", which he says is impossible. I would think that detonation=Apex seal destruction. The car is still running great.
Anyhoo, I am going to update my post with this info to share with others.
I am glad I have such a wiling to help out dealership. And for those who have asked, I am definately keeping the car.
05-07-2005, 02:23 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by scottmhr1
I have a bit of a problem with mazdaspeedgirl? ex-employee of the dealer (were you fired. You autocross and don't know how to break in a new engine? There is something a bit lame about these post? Disgruntled ex employee? Post just aren't adding up right. Knowlege but pleading ignorance?
Not wanting to delve too deeply into my reason for leaving dealership, let's just say it was my decision to leave a simple job in the shop to attend school to start a meaningful career.
That being said, I hold NO grudges against my dealership, Mazda, nor the product. I have said many times before that I love my dealer and I believe they are the best service department I could hope to have. I am still friends with everyone there, as well.
I just thought it might be helpful for others to have a bit of insight into what actually goes on in service, because most dealership service departments will not be as honest with customers when they are asked what other problem and frequency of the discussed issues are occurring with other cars of the same make/model.
So if anyone else agrees with Scott, just let me know and I will remove the thread. It's not here to hurt, but help.
Oh, and as far as the personal attacks about my car knowledge, these don't phase me, sir. If you had read correctly, I was making sure of the correct procedure and asking what everyone else recommended, as there are differences in Mazda's break-in procedure and Racing Beat's.
Don't presume to think I am a poser, just because I ask other people's opinions about technical information. If I knew everything there is to know about these cars, I would not be here.
05-07-2005, 02:25 PM
#70
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Oh, and someone else asked if any other RX-8s had been in the shop. Yes, and there are new ones everytime I go in (once a week or so). Not all are engine replacements, but most are.
05-07-2005, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazdaspeedgirl
Oh, and someone else asked if any other RX-8s had been in the shop. Yes, and there are new ones everytime I go in (once a week or so). Not all are engine replacements, but most are.
05-13-2005, 04:01 PM
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Okay
I just got my car back today after three days. It was idling rough and quite on me 2X at a redlight.
The dealer first ran a diagnostic on the car and saw no codes.
He then checked the compression and found 107 - 113 PSI on Rotor #1 and 109 - 115 PSI on Rotor #2
He also found 4 fouled spark plugs and replaced them.
I have 18,000 miles.
Also, it was found that my AC compressor had failed AGAIN. This is my 3rd one.
Is that compression OK? What is it supposed to be?
I just got my car back today after three days. It was idling rough and quite on me 2X at a redlight.
The dealer first ran a diagnostic on the car and saw no codes.
He then checked the compression and found 107 - 113 PSI on Rotor #1 and 109 - 115 PSI on Rotor #2
He also found 4 fouled spark plugs and replaced them.
I have 18,000 miles.
Also, it was found that my AC compressor had failed AGAIN. This is my 3rd one.
Is that compression OK? What is it supposed to be?
