Might have a flooded engine, but no trick works!
#1
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Might have a flooded engine, but no trick works!
I've been having issues with my 8 all this weekend. I started it up, it ran for a minute or so, then died. I figured it had flooded so, I've been trying everything trick I can, plus a new battery and spark plugs.
I've tried the fuel pump fuse, clutch sensor, air flow sensor, pulling the Sparks, and nothing has worked. I've watch so many videos and tutorials. I saw one recommendation it leave the spark plugs out overnight and let everything air out so, that's where I am today
Anything else I can try before having it towed to the dealership and destroy my bank account?
I've tried the fuel pump fuse, clutch sensor, air flow sensor, pulling the Sparks, and nothing has worked. I've watch so many videos and tutorials. I saw one recommendation it leave the spark plugs out overnight and let everything air out so, that's where I am today
Anything else I can try before having it towed to the dealership and destroy my bank account?
#2
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Typically if a car is running it's not going to flood itself. It stalled for some reason, which may have caused it to flood, but the initial stall is a different problem which may or may be preventing you from starting.
Have you tried the deflood procedure with the gas pedal to the floor? You need to crank with the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds at a time 6-7 times, sometimes more, then gently raise your foot off the gas while cranking and it should start to catch.
Have you tried the deflood procedure with the gas pedal to the floor? You need to crank with the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds at a time 6-7 times, sometimes more, then gently raise your foot off the gas while cranking and it should start to catch.
#3
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Typically if a car is running it's not going to flood itself. It stalled for some reason, which may have caused it to flood, but the initial stall is a different problem which may or may be preventing you from starting.
Have you tried the deflood procedure with the gas pedal to the floor? You need to crank with the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds at a time 6-7 times, sometimes more, then gently raise your foot off the gas while cranking and it should start to catch.
Have you tried the deflood procedure with the gas pedal to the floor? You need to crank with the gas pedal to the floor for 10 seconds at a time 6-7 times, sometimes more, then gently raise your foot off the gas while cranking and it should start to catch.
I tried that, pulling the leading plugs only and trying to clean it out like that, pulling all the plugs and trying that, all with the fuel pump fuse out, the crank sensor pulled, and slamming the peddle to the ground approximately 10 times for around 10 second with 1 minute intervals.
I saw a video where a guy suggested putting a hair dryer in the intake for a bit to help dry it out.
#5
Liquid gasoline will not ignite which is why flooding occurs. Gasoline vapor will. Using a hair dryer to dry out a cylinder is totally asinine. You are converting a liquid to an explosive vapor that is looking for an ignition point (such as a hair dryer!). The de-flooding procedure is designed to move the liquid out of the cylinder and into the exhaust.
#6
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Lol hair dryer. You know because air is free to circulate through the engine without it turning over.
So I don't think your engine is flooded. Have you had prior issues? Has it stalled on you before?
You need spark, fuel and compression to start an engine. Let's say you're OK on fuel, can you confirm the rest?
So I don't think your engine is flooded. Have you had prior issues? Has it stalled on you before?
You need spark, fuel and compression to start an engine. Let's say you're OK on fuel, can you confirm the rest?
#7
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Lol hair dryer. You know because air is free to circulate through the engine without it turning over.
So I don't think your engine is flooded. Have you had prior issues? Has it stalled on you before?
You need spark, fuel and compression to start an engine. Let's say you're OK on fuel, can you confirm the rest?
So I don't think your engine is flooded. Have you had prior issues? Has it stalled on you before?
You need spark, fuel and compression to start an engine. Let's say you're OK on fuel, can you confirm the rest?
I the only issue I had like this before was with my spark plugs cables detaching, and I changed those, the relays, and the spark plugs about 2 years ago. The clutch sensor was replaced prior to that by the dealership when it failed during the whole airbag recall thing. The only other thing Otheris that the catalytic converter has been bad since I got the car, and that's been probably 6-8 years now than that, it's been running fine.
I tried it this morning and it will try to start with the fuel pump fuse and the couch relay attached, but it won't fully start.
#9
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Yes, it'll turn over, and sputter for a bit. After a few tries, it'll catch, and attempt to start up for about 5 seconds or so.
#11
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Its a MT. That's a good idea to try. I just replaced the started, and it SOUNDS better,but still not starting.
#12
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So, I had to give up and had it towed to the local dealership. They are going to do a compression test on it and determine if the engine needs to be rebuilt.
#14
Smoking turbo yay
#16
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I can ask them for a copy on Monday. Really freaking sucks. I love my rotary and was hoping to hold out until the fabled RX-9.
If so, the real question is if it's worth replacing, or putting a down payment on something newer. The AC needs work, and there's some paint and body damage that'll need to be addressed too.
#17
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I can ask them for a copy on Monday. Really freaking sucks. I love my rotary and was hoping to hold out until the fabled RX-9.
If so, the real question is if it's worth replacing, or putting a down payment on something newer. The AC needs work, and there's some paint and body damage that'll need to be addressed too.
If so, the real question is if it's worth replacing, or putting a down payment on something newer. The AC needs work, and there's some paint and body damage that'll need to be addressed too.
#18
Smoking turbo yay
I can ask them for a copy on Monday. Really freaking sucks. I love my rotary and was hoping to hold out until the fabled RX-9.
If so, the real question is if it's worth replacing, or putting a down payment on something newer. The AC needs work, and there's some paint and body damage that'll need to be addressed too.
If so, the real question is if it's worth replacing, or putting a down payment on something newer. The AC needs work, and there's some paint and body damage that'll need to be addressed too.
Quite a few of people here moved on. Some to BMW, some to Miatas. Personally I'd like an LS powered car - complete opposite of an NA rotary.
Anyway, a shell is worth $1k if you wish to sell it. If your bodywork is not in the best shape, it will be less. As to if it's worth it to replace the engine to get it back up and running, that's a question only you can answer yourself. Reman is about $3k, and with labour and some miscellaneous stuff like the clutch(you may as well), that's $7k. The bodywork will have to be assessed by a body shop.
#19
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Did you try and pull start it?
If it is really flooded there will be really low compression from the fuel washing away the oil film.
I had a car that was in the 3's but even on all faces.... we pull started it and drove it around till it quit smoking and retested it and it was in the 8's hot.
If you did something that could have flooded it initially then that could be an option.
Or if an ignition or issue popped up that caused it..
I'm always a bit sceptical when they don't give you compression numbers.... cause of course they want you to get a new engine 😏
If it is really flooded there will be really low compression from the fuel washing away the oil film.
I had a car that was in the 3's but even on all faces.... we pull started it and drove it around till it quit smoking and retested it and it was in the 8's hot.
If you did something that could have flooded it initially then that could be an option.
Or if an ignition or issue popped up that caused it..
I'm always a bit sceptical when they don't give you compression numbers.... cause of course they want you to get a new engine 😏
#20
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Did you try and pull start it?
If it is really flooded there will be really low compression from the fuel washing away the oil film.
I had a car that was in the 3's but even on all faces.... we pull started it and drove it around till it quit smoking and retested it and it was in the 8's hot.
If you did something that could have flooded it initially then that could be an option.
Or if an ignition or issue popped up that caused it..
I'm always a bit sceptical when they don't give you compression numbers.... cause of course they want you to get a new engine 😏
If it is really flooded there will be really low compression from the fuel washing away the oil film.
I had a car that was in the 3's but even on all faces.... we pull started it and drove it around till it quit smoking and retested it and it was in the 8's hot.
If you did something that could have flooded it initially then that could be an option.
Or if an ignition or issue popped up that caused it..
I'm always a bit sceptical when they don't give you compression numbers.... cause of course they want you to get a new engine 😏
So, the compression numbers are
Front Rotor 4.2, 5.0, 3.6
Rear Rotor 6.8, 7.9, 7.3
#24
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So, I picked up my car from the dealership on Wednesday and was going to bring it to the house and was going to try and pull start it. After a bit of tinkering and a few pull start attempts, it came back to life! So far, it's been running great!
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