jmc23200

2004 AT RX8. 52000ish miles. Coils, Plugs and wires changed less then 1 year ago. Oil changes done every 3 months or 3,000 miles. I use 5W30 Dino. No mods other than drop in air filter.

Yesterday, I was driving as normal. The car had been on for about 3 minutes. I pulled out of a parking lot, got to about 4k RPM and then the car lost all throttle responsiveness, all the lights came on, and when I pulled over it sputtered and stalled. If I turn the car on while in N or P and give it gas, the car stays on as long as I am keepeing the RPM's up(otherwise it stalls by itself with no throttle). Once I put it in D, the RPM's instantly drop to about 750 no matter if I give 10% or 100% throttle. Again, once I take my foot off the gas, it stalls. Any Ideas??? HALP!!!

Mazurfer

Check all your vacuum lines on the throttle body and that lead to the accordian tube.......see if any are broken or have a massive leak. I know this will cause it for sure.
Then I think you need to start looking at the MAF. Oh.......and I'm guessing you have no way to get the code read? You really should do that because that will really help narrow it down. If you have an Autozone near you, the typically read it for free(except in Cali).

jmc23200

I got the codes read. I am getting the following. Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire, Cylinder 2 Misfire, and System too lean bank 1. Look like I have something to start with. Thanks for the ideas, but I already checked for Vaccuum leaks and didnt find any. This is strange because of how everything was 100% fine(or atleast seemed like it) and then all of a sudden hit a **** brick wall.

dozer

iTrader: (3)

misfires mean you have to change out your spark plugs and coils

I8U

iTrader: (1)

^+1

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

With an A/T model, this tends to be a dirty or disconnected MAF sensor.

bhop

/\ Right. Change your coils/plugs again just to be safe, also my rx8 stayed below 1000rpm and did not stall nor did it cut off, it stayed at around 800rpm but this is because my MAF was dirty and I needed new coils/plugs. I don't think your situation is major enough to go to the dealer just yet and have them charge you just to be looking at it.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

How do we clean the MAF again? Qtip and rubbing Alcohal?

dozer

iTrader: (3)

^no, with MAF cleaner

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I have done it that way several times and never had a problem.

fastlaneracing

Sounds just as when one of the electrical cables between my PCM and MAF become loose earlier this year.

So Im guessing as CHR something with your MAF.

jmc23200

UPDATE: I cleaned the MAF. I checked the coils and plugs and they are fine. I also cleaned the plugs for good measure. I did notice that on one of my plug wires, the metal conector on the inside of the boot was recessed into the neck of the boot. I fixed the wire and now the CEL light is off but my car still will not run properly and stalls when I take my foot off the gas. I had my car on for about 30 seconds to 1 minute and watched smoke pile out from my exhaust before it stalled. When I turned the car off, I could hear a snap, crackle, pop noise coming from under the car. The noise was comming from the cat converter. I touched the cat and it was HOT! Could a clogged cat cause this?

xun4gvn4everx

iTrader: (2)

The cat always gets hot shortly after starting the car. Might wanna try reseting your ECU and see if that helps. Also, with only 52000 miles on your car, your cat should be okay. But, if that ends up being a problem, mazda has the 80000 mile warranty on the cat.

Mazurfer

Yes, it could very definitely cause it. Anything that restricts flow could be an issue, but doesn't mean that's it.
The CAT will get extremely hot anyway and there is always some ticking after shut off as metal cools.
I was kinda hoping it was the MAF or a vacuum line!
You can actually take the CAT loose at the front and get a look at the inside with a flashlight and see in it's intact.
Lot of people will just tell you to gut it and live with it as a new one is about $1500-$1600(I believe), but you might get a new
one under warranty if it turns out to be that.

So you have no CEL's now? Think I would do all the resets(as stated above) and then give it a few drive cycles to see if it smooths out.

jmc23200

So, I brought the car to the dealer. The CAT is indeed bad. However, the cat was killed by..... drum roll please ...... a bad motor pissing oil into it. I have joined the blown motor club. Mazda is now asking for my service records and stating that it will cost me approx. $550 for nuts, bolts, gaskets, fluids etc. Is this true or would any part needed to replace my engine and cat be covered under the warranty?

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

Boy you'd really think those would be covered.

xun4gvn4everx

iTrader: (2)

That there would be part of the small print on the warranty unfortunatly. But, you are getting a new motor and CAT so you can't complain all that much.

@!!narotordo

Never Q-Tip the MAF! unless you want to spend over $150. on a new one. Do it right and get the maf cleaner in a spray can from your local auto parts store. Spray let dry install.

Also it sounds like your battire is dead. Have it checked.
GL.

jmc23200

I'm guessing you missed the post that stated my engine is being replaced under warranty.

As for the $550, I can't complain IF I need to pay that. The reason why dealers are charging me(or trying to) is because of people with the mentality of "$550 for a new motor, SWEET DEAL" when in reality, you are being bent over.

xun4gvn4everx

iTrader: (2)

Alls I can tell ya is to read your warranty inside and out. If you can find a loop hole around the $550 then props to you and let us know what it is. I personally have not heard of anyone finding a loop hole, but I also haven't researched this topic since I haven't needed a new motor yet. Good luck bro.

shazy

you arent supposed to pay ****.
It's on warranty, why would you have to pay for bolts and etc?