w00t! Time to yank out the engine and begin the rebuild. :fruit:

+1 on making Eric take pics

I'm not hearing anything:uhh: :uhh:

I will volunteer to be the threatener... I work cheap (just ahve to pay airfare).

LOLZ

did you take the blower off to make it easier on the dealership or did it go intact?

I'm with Kane, I'm pretty sure him and I can put the fear of God into just about anyone...

huh?!
Lighten up Ray, we're just messin' around.

I guess it is not joke time....

My lack of propriety always gets me in trouble.

Kane, does this mean we have to wear the Dunce cap again?

You do... I get a bi for being uber-cool. :eyetwitch

WHAT?! I call shenanigans!!!

Well as some BIG DOG has told me, today is the day that the engine is finally out of the car and the rebuild gets started. Let me know if that BIG DOG was just a little bird :fingersx:

Keep us updated!

Don't trust dealerships?

:rant: :banghead: :cussing: :Kill2: :uzi: :argue: What, me bust your balls :boid: ??????

hehe---Ray and Phil--as you know i and Moon have been fooling around with the cooling system.
Well it seems now i have too much cooling capacity--evidenced by 140-150-operating temps.
I am csi'ing this and I believe that just a thermostat mod(close up the by pass system and a lower rated thermostat) MAY be enough to control temps to an acceptable range.
I am doing a little bit more investigating before I can say this for sure. I will post.
But while you have the engine out etc i thought you may want to look at this.
Sic um Phil!! JK
OD

Nope. Not out here.
Tried it, didn't help.

whoa! I can't get temps that low cruising on the freeway when it's 40 degrees outside. Not that I would want to, but that's pretty darn low.
What temps are you shooting for?
I'm generally in the 175-200 range (with a mix of highway / agressive street)

You should NEVER operate a rotary motor under load with coolant or oil temps below 160°F.

See what you come up with, maybe multipul small things can be one big thing. Now when it is (was) cooler

I know you tried each of them but how about all combined?

Second rad, different rad, more fans, different ducts, thermostat mod, earlier fans, different coolant ratios, restrictors, reroutes and other added/deleted equipment.
All in different combinations and permutations.
None make any difference.
In a <5% humidity environment, there are absolute ambient temperature limits that produce repeatable coolant temperatures at specific loads and load durations in my application.

well--at least this wouldnt hurt:)
True--the desert is the ultimate test.
I am shooting for a sustained temp 160-190 range--even on track, or summer in the s.e. and stop and go traffic.
I have track and summer stop and go done---but in the wrong way. Now that it is cooler--i am too cool. SO i have to continue to work on the balance between thermostat and cooling system capacity.

Back to your thread----shouldnt be long now.:)
OD

Try strapping a swamp cooler on that thing. You could have a coolant temperature triggered mister that sprays over the rad. I know you're dying to add a bunch of extra hardware, wiring, and another reservoir onto your car... you can thank me later :)

Radiator misters = Fail.................been there done that, don't work. This car may become permanently parked during the summer if the over heating continues. I think the only thing I have not tried was continuous running fans......wrong we did try that also. I think I'm back to the liquid Nitrogen:)

I believe that Ray is installing a lower thermostat (it was discussed) but most of the stuff you suggest OD, we have tried. I can get the temps down in the fall and winter (almost too low, like you) but summer ..............................ahhhh.

phil: are you running water / meth?

Right now I'm not running anything (no dam car) but will be using meth.