olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Well Phil you sure have knowledgeble people with ya.
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely differant. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type nowjust regular red light stuff)
I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that.
I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down.
You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documneted out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap.
OD

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

The humidity seems to be your saving grace. My stop and go traffic is just red lights and slow drivers here. We don't have much bumper to bumper traffic YET. When the cooling water temperature gets to 220 degrees the air conditioner quits working (just blows hot air) and will not come on again until the temp goes down.

When the air temperature hits 90 degrees I use 20s/50 Royal Purple and never use any viscosity lower that 30 even in the winter. I did not start premixing until I have 1000 miles on the car and then used Pettit premix until introduced to the alternative. I am religious about making sure the oil is clean and premix is in the tank. Drop a note to Ray and ask him how I take care of my ride. He has first hand knowledge of the care I have give this car. Ray and I have been extremely proactive on the overheating problems and every little cooling idea or mod has been done to my car.

Our local Mazda dealer put me in the computer early on even before I had the s/c as being overly modded and not eligible for warranty. I did contact MNAO and received back an answers stating that each of their dealers is a separate entity and not controlled by Mazda. They could do nothing for me sorry but I should have consulted Mazda before making the mods. Since I am in the computer, I am told that no dealer will touch me for any warranty work.

I'm sure if I got to the right people some of that could have been changed but at this stage and time there is no need to even try. I have been very vocal and did not try to hide my name.

Ray, Jeff and Eric will do a rebuild that will have every piece gone over with a fine tooth comb. I imagine that as long as I can keep the temperature under control this rebuild should last for the foreseeable future.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

I guess the Million Dollar question becomes: how do we keep her cooler? As you said, just about every cooling mod avaiable has been done already...

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Short of a pipeline to Lake Mead, I do not know. I hope Ray comes up with an idea. I would hate to have to run more radiators. The one I have in there now would cool a 700hp piston engine...........don't figure.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

problem = stop and go traffic, right?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Its not carbon.
We'll get it fixed up.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

yeah, this does not sound like Carbon at all. Heat + seals =
can't wait for the tear down pics / video

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

That's the positive note that I've been waiting for. I don't think that the way I drive will allow carbon to form anywhere. Red lines have never been something I was afraid of.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Yours will be a great example unfortunately of the "next level" cooling requirements? I knew your car had and still is extremely well maintained and watched.
I really do not understand this. Not really. The s.c. is not even in boost during normal driving ie--cruising. Your tuning is right on, your mods are the latest and greatest, the car is babied in its upkeep. very low mileage, your oil certainly can take the heat.
WTF?
Maybe move that dang a/c condenser to a horizontal position with its own small fan, seal the radiator up tight, maybe time to toss the oem size radiator and think of a substitute? Hell I dont know--just feel the frustration here dude.
The findings are sure is going to be interesting
OD

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

if the compression is down on all chambers - does anyone have any theories as to where the loss is occuring ? Does not make sense that all the apex seals just wore out at once

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Its most likely that the housings distorted near the plug holes or the irons distorted and ate the side seals.

DOMINION

I lost my 1st one at 20K

I'm sorry for your loss Phil. I'm doing my best to help you

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Having done my research, I always knew that I would prematurely loose this engine. After all an '04 in the desert is almost a preordained loss to at least one engine. I am a gambler living in Vegas so I played the odds that I could forestall it for a reasonable length of mileage. Believing that I had "covered" all the bases and with the exception of heat could beat the odds. Heat beat me this time but some how will never again with this car. I am fortunate to have local friends that are supportive and helpful and even more blessed to have other friends that will be going out of their way to fix this problem child.

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

Big tank of water in the trunk hooked up to a snow performance w/m kit. Two nozzles in the intake, one special nozzle in front of the radiator. Have them turn on early(2.5V) and peak late.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I am considering having my company build me a pipeline to Lake Mead for cooling purposes the only trouble there is that time time of year it's temperature is 90 degrees and the heat this car generates would raise the lake temp more than the EPA would allow .

Fun aside, tanks for injection are already in the manufacturer stages and a BHR injection block is already setting there just waiting for fluids. That nozzle(s) in front of the radiator has been discussed several times. I would have to shroud the radiator to make a swamp cooler arrangement out of it for it to be effective. When you have 4% humidity at 112+ degrees you do not have much cooling coming from a light spray open to atmosphere. The arrangement of our radiator mounting also leads to reflected heat from the pavement (when tested last week was 131 degrees f) In addition our tap water is so hard that the radiator cooling fins would be clogged very early in the use and while distilled water is not very expensive, it would be inconvenient.

I have (thru BHR) my supercharger temps under control with the over-sized after cooler so you would think that the engine would be easy.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Spraying water on the rad does nothing.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I agree but it had been discussed - I don't have the thermal numbers to show why not but it does not offer any relief.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

we checking the compression in 2 weeks when we're all out there?

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Well, Jeff is the one with the fancy compression checker that does all three chambers at once. I seem to remember he is hauling that around now as a "must have" tool. I'll see if I can be sure he brings it.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You gonna make me work on a pleasure trip?

I pumped an entire gallon of water through the rad when it started to get warm with a high-pressure pump and a set of mister jets and it did absolutely nothing.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

How can anyone with a handle of Mazda Maniac be expected to do any thing but work??? I think all those SoCal guys are kinda worried.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

it's your Birthday, I guess we'll let you off the hook.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Phil, i have spoken with people i know and they think and i am inclined to agree that you do need more cooling surface area but it needs to be separate from the cooling area of the oem and it cant jeopardize proper
flow.
Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling..
when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat.
just a thought.
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

they suggested 3 cubic inches of cooling surface area per h/p.
OD

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I will discuss this with the boys, it's another idea. The only thing I see that may be a problem would be mounting anything under the car. Radiated head from the roads are extreamly high and would interfer with heat transfer.