It finally happened
#26
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Well Phil you sure have knowledgeble people with ya.
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely differant. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type nowjust regular red light stuff)
I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that.
I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down.
You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documneted out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap.
OD
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely differant. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type nowjust regular red light stuff)
I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that.
I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down.
You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documneted out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap.
OD
#27
Well Phil you sure have knowledgeable people with ya.
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely different. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type now just regular red light stuff)
I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that.
I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down.
You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documented out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap.
OD
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely different. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type now just regular red light stuff)
I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that.
I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down.
You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documented out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap.
OD
When the air temperature hits 90 degrees I use 20s/50 Royal Purple and never use any viscosity lower that 30 even in the winter. I did not start premixing until I have 1000 miles on the car and then used Pettit premix until introduced to the alternative. I am religious about making sure the oil is clean and premix is in the tank. Drop a note to Ray and ask him how I take care of my ride. He has first hand knowledge of the care I have give this car. Ray and I have been extremely proactive on the overheating problems and every little cooling idea or mod has been done to my car.
Our local Mazda dealer put me in the computer early on even before I had the s/c as being overly modded and not eligible for warranty. I did contact MNAO and received back an answers stating that each of their dealers is a separate entity and not controlled by Mazda. They could do nothing for me sorry but I should have consulted Mazda before making the mods. Since I am in the computer, I am told that no dealer will touch me for any warranty work.
I'm sure if I got to the right people some of that could have been changed but at this stage and time there is no need to even try. I have been very vocal and did not try to hide my name.
Ray, Jeff and Eric will do a rebuild that will have every piece gone over with a fine tooth comb. I imagine that as long as I can keep the temperature under control this rebuild should last for the foreseeable future.
#28
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
I guess the Million Dollar question becomes: how do we keep her cooler? As you said, just about every cooling mod avaiable has been done already...
#30
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iTrader: (7)
problem = stop and go traffic, right?
#32
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
yeah, this does not sound like Carbon at all. Heat + seals =
can't wait for the tear down pics / video
can't wait for the tear down pics / video
#34
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Yours will be a great example unfortunately of the "next level" cooling requirements? I knew your car had and still is extremely well maintained and watched.
I really do not understand this. Not really. The s.c. is not even in boost during normal driving ie--cruising. Your tuning is right on, your mods are the latest and greatest, the car is babied in its upkeep. very low mileage, your oil certainly can take the heat.
WTF?
Maybe move that dang a/c condenser to a horizontal position with its own small fan, seal the radiator up tight, maybe time to toss the oem size radiator and think of a substitute? Hell I dont know--just feel the frustration here dude.
The findings are sure is going to be interesting
OD
I really do not understand this. Not really. The s.c. is not even in boost during normal driving ie--cruising. Your tuning is right on, your mods are the latest and greatest, the car is babied in its upkeep. very low mileage, your oil certainly can take the heat.
WTF?
Maybe move that dang a/c condenser to a horizontal position with its own small fan, seal the radiator up tight, maybe time to toss the oem size radiator and think of a substitute? Hell I dont know--just feel the frustration here dude.
The findings are sure is going to be interesting
OD
#37
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Ray and I were discussing this a little while ago. Does seem strange to lose one so early in it's life. I think Phil said it had about 15,000 miles on it. I lost my first one at about 30,000 miles.
But anyway on to bigger and better things. I can foresee a quick turn around for you Phil on the engine rebuild. We were talking about 1 week maximum. Picked up and delivered.
That's how we roll.
But anyway on to bigger and better things. I can foresee a quick turn around for you Phil on the engine rebuild. We were talking about 1 week maximum. Picked up and delivered.
That's how we roll.
I'm sorry for your loss Phil. I'm doing my best to help you
#38
Having done my research, I always knew that I would prematurely loose this engine. After all an '04 in the desert is almost a preordained loss to at least one engine. I am a gambler living in Vegas so I played the odds that I could forestall it for a reasonable length of mileage. Believing that I had "covered" all the bases and with the exception of heat could beat the odds. Heat beat me this time but some how will never again with this car. I am fortunate to have local friends that are supportive and helpful and even more blessed to have other friends that will be going out of their way to fix this problem child.
#40
Fun aside, tanks for injection are already in the manufacturer stages and a BHR injection block is already setting there just waiting for fluids. That nozzle(s) in front of the radiator has been discussed several times. I would have to shroud the radiator to make a swamp cooler arrangement out of it for it to be effective. When you have 4% humidity at 112+ degrees you do not have much cooling coming from a light spray open to atmosphere. The arrangement of our radiator mounting also leads to reflected heat from the pavement (when tested last week was 131 degrees f) In addition our tap water is so hard that the radiator cooling fins would be clogged very early in the use and while distilled water is not very expensive, it would be inconvenient.
I have (thru BHR) my supercharger temps under control with the over-sized after cooler so you would think that the engine would be easy.
#43
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
we checking the compression in 2 weeks when we're all out there?
#47
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iTrader: (7)
#48
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Phil, i have spoken with people i know and they think and i am inclined to agree that you do need more cooling surface area but it needs to be separate from the cooling area of the oem and it cant jeopardize proper
flow.
Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling..
when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat.
just a thought.
olddragger
flow.
Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling..
when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat.
just a thought.
olddragger
#50
Phil, i have spoken with people i know and they think and i am inclined to agree that you do need more cooling surface area but it needs to be separate from the cooling area of the oem and it cant jeopardize proper
flow.
Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling..
when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat.
just a thought.
olddragger
flow.
Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling..
when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat.
just a thought.
olddragger