It finally happened
#326
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
where'd everyone go?
#328
#334
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
^^^ so I've noticed.
#335
Rotary Powered Countryboy
wow this has been at least 2 rebuilds on a "boosted" engine that have minimal wear.....uh um....mazda y don't u try turbo/s/c it from the factory....... good job guys on the rebuild
#336
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
no need for Mazda to run FI on a car they are marketing as N/A.
There have been a few rebuilds out there on FI cars but the problem doesn't actually seem to be the FI.
Problem could be related to heat, omp settings on older PCM flashes, etc.
There have been a few rebuilds out there on FI cars but the problem doesn't actually seem to be the FI.
Problem could be related to heat, omp settings on older PCM flashes, etc.
#337
With mine it appears that the lack of oil did me in. I'm sure heat contributed to it but all the signs point to primarily oil. That will not happen again. I may blow the engine for other reasons but oil will not be the cause.
#340
Dongbag extrordinare
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Away from the fruits of my labor
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On the subject of mixing, i've been using MMO for the last 50k miles in the oil and fuel, at least 20k of which have been boosted. In that time frame I have played around and done some things many of the "experts" have recommended against in regards to tuning and hardware. I currently have allmost 100k on my motor and my latest WOT run produced 346g/s of MAF.
MMO is cheap, and has allways worked for me in all of my vehicles. Sorry to thread jack Phil, but just trying to help.
-Yambo
MMO is cheap, and has allways worked for me in all of my vehicles. Sorry to thread jack Phil, but just trying to help.
-Yambo
#341
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
#344
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
PLEASE don't assume that thicker oil is 'better' oil.
It may provide more protection, short term, but make sure it is good reputable brand-name oil - CHEAP 10w30 should never see the inside of a rotary, and it should be a crime to use it, with any form of FI.
IN MY OPINION (always subject to peer review) any FI should be running full synthetic, always, with no exceptions.
You should see the coke that forms inside a dino-lubed turbo bearing, they just don't have a chance. And a set of blower gears is almost custom made to shear a dino oil down to dishwater......
S
It may provide more protection, short term, but make sure it is good reputable brand-name oil - CHEAP 10w30 should never see the inside of a rotary, and it should be a crime to use it, with any form of FI.
IN MY OPINION (always subject to peer review) any FI should be running full synthetic, always, with no exceptions.
You should see the coke that forms inside a dino-lubed turbo bearing, they just don't have a chance. And a set of blower gears is almost custom made to shear a dino oil down to dishwater......
S
#346
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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There was carbon behind the tips of the side seals, excessive wear on the apex seals considering only 17K miles, and the rest of the engine had little wear. The bearing clearances were all in perfect spec.
My opinion; anyone who cares about their engine should be running synthetic in the engine, a Sohn adapter, and good 2-stroke in the injection tank for the Sohn.
My opinion; anyone who cares about their engine should be running synthetic in the engine, a Sohn adapter, and good 2-stroke in the injection tank for the Sohn.
I've looked around but haven't seen any I really like. The 2-3 people who did DIY on the sohn adapter all commented about how much of a PITA it was to find a good container.
I knew you were working on a 2 or 3 tank reservoir, but I'm guessing the manufacturer is dragging their feet.