where'd everyone go?

 

i smell broken motor ......

 

Bad fuel line
Or they're finally having real fun with an AUTO! j\k Phil, i'm sure that youre gonna kick butts after these mods more than ever!

 

no worries mate - sometimes i just say stuff like that to get a quick response -it worked . heh

And thanks in advance for the package - really appreciate it

 

I don't know.....
Ask Mazsport.

 

It will be done when it get done......Jeff may have some work here also. The whole reason we tested the compression was cuz Jeff was having a problem with the tune. So now that it's compression is back, Jeff may have some work on it.

 

Way to come clean there Ray

 

Yeah Ray, you definately have a high level of self-efficacy.....

 

^^^ so I've noticed.

 

wow this has been at least 2 rebuilds on a "boosted" engine that have minimal wear.....uh um....mazda y don't u try turbo/s/c it from the factory....... good job guys on the rebuild

 

no need for Mazda to run FI on a car they are marketing as N/A.
There have been a few rebuilds out there on FI cars but the problem doesn't actually seem to be the FI.

Problem could be related to heat, omp settings on older PCM flashes, etc.

 

It's not just the boosted versions that have problems. The only reason you hear about them is cuz we do not have warranty. Some where in this forum there is a threat about the amount of engine rebuilds that Mazda is paying for. With Mazda you never hear what the problem is.

With mine it appears that the lack of oil did me in. I'm sure heat contributed to it but all the signs point to primarily oil. That will not happen again. I may blow the engine for other reasons but oil will not be the cause.

 

Phil was only running 4oz premix per tank . Probably should double that for any real benefit ..

 

Yes, Mazda beancounters are definately a "threat" we should be aware of!

 

On the subject of mixing, i've been using MMO for the last 50k miles in the oil and fuel, at least 20k of which have been boosted. In that time frame I have played around and done some things many of the "experts" have recommended against in regards to tuning and hardware. I currently have allmost 100k on my motor and my latest WOT run produced 346g/s of MAF.

MMO is cheap, and has allways worked for me in all of my vehicles. Sorry to thread jack Phil, but just trying to help.

-Yambo

 

with MM's maps, he might not need that much

 

His AccessPORT calibration provides DOUBLE the OEM oil injection.
I do exactly the same thing - 4oz per tank and double OMP output.

MMO isn't a lubricant. Its mostly solvent.

 

What about running a "thicker" oil, say 10w30, 40??

 

PLEASE don't assume that thicker oil is 'better' oil.

It may provide more protection, short term, but make sure it is good reputable brand-name oil - CHEAP 10w30 should never see the inside of a rotary, and it should be a crime to use it, with any form of FI.

IN MY OPINION (always subject to peer review) any FI should be running full synthetic, always, with no exceptions.

You should see the coke that forms inside a dino-lubed turbo bearing, they just don't have a chance. And a set of blower gears is almost custom made to shear a dino oil down to dishwater......

S

 

Having run only synthetic for quite a while, I will offer this (flame suit on):

Run a good, name-brand DINO oil in the crank case and change it often.
Its cheaper.
INJECT a proper 2-cycle oil (dino, synth or blend).

 

So Ray, when are you going to start selling the "injection tank" for the Sohn?

I've looked around but haven't seen any I really like. The 2-3 people who did DIY on the sohn adapter all commented about how much of a PITA it was to find a good container.

I knew you were working on a 2 or 3 tank reservoir, but I'm guessing the manufacturer is dragging their feet.

 

i think i heard that its being beta/test fitted either now or very soon....... musta been some birdie told me that..........

 

dibs - on omp tank.

hey moRotor - I se you lurking.... I just got back from St John; we gonna go burn down Gander tomorrow night?

 

Washer, OMP, coolant overflow and oil vapor catch. All billet aluminum.

 

I need it in anodized black.... but that setup looks bad ***.