Engine Number Three
07-07-2009, 03:59 PM
#53
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I would honestly hope that maybe in the future they would be willing to install 09+ engines in our vehicles. I am aware of the differences...but this is ridiculous.
07-08-2009, 06:14 PM
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Okay guys picked up my brand new Nissan Sentra with CVT tranny so apparently they do cover rental under the extended engine warranty. It could be worse, last time I had a Saturn ION that was a total POS. I also placed my order for my BHR ignition :-)
07-13-2009, 04:49 PM
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After reading this im worried.
50k on org motor with 5w-20 since the day I drove it off the lot. My father has a 83' 7, with 220k (12a) original motor. His technique for keeping the engine this long with no major problems, drive it hard and forget to change the oil. As dumb as this sounds, (and it really does) I do that(ish) 6k or 7k between oil changes. No major problems besides the hard shaking in the rear, which has nothing to do with the motor. Does anyone know if mazda ever release and official statement saying that 5w-20 caused alot of the problems? Im knocking on every wooden object in the place, im worried now that im going to have some major issues. ehh
50k on org motor with 5w-20 since the day I drove it off the lot. My father has a 83' 7, with 220k (12a) original motor. His technique for keeping the engine this long with no major problems, drive it hard and forget to change the oil. As dumb as this sounds, (and it really does) I do that(ish) 6k or 7k between oil changes. No major problems besides the hard shaking in the rear, which has nothing to do with the motor. Does anyone know if mazda ever release and official statement saying that 5w-20 caused alot of the problems? Im knocking on every wooden object in the place, im worried now that im going to have some major issues. ehh
07-13-2009, 05:37 PM
#61
use diesel oil 15/40w --read about it-- a fellow ga rx8 owner did many oil analysis's on various convential/synthetic and then the diesel (valvoline blue) --no doubt about it. Conventional and synthetic both loose sear viscosity that you wouldnt believe. Go to the Ga Rx 8 club to view the oil analysis--you will have to log in.
One other hint---even if your engine temp shows fully warm during your 1st drive of the day, it doesnt mean the oil is warm. When you engine temp gauge 1st reaches fully warm your oil temps are not even 140F yet. that takes another couple of miles. From what I understand oil needs to be at least 160F to do its job
olddragger
One other hint---even if your engine temp shows fully warm during your 1st drive of the day, it doesnt mean the oil is warm. When you engine temp gauge 1st reaches fully warm your oil temps are not even 140F yet. that takes another couple of miles. From what I understand oil needs to be at least 160F to do its job
olddragger
07-13-2009, 05:59 PM
#62
Re: OIL
I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
Last edited by RXeckless; 07-13-2009 at 06:07 PM.
07-13-2009, 08:52 PM
#63
I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
in my case, I know something up with my engine, thats why I asked for compression test even I have to pay for it. numbers still within spec but it was kinda low.
Guess what, the engine runs, still random stallin', 6 months later the front rotor compression went to the 5 range. dead. but I can tell you the engine does run !
you can use whatever you want, but my point of view is, 5w20 sounds like a big joke to me from Mazda.
07-13-2009, 08:56 PM
#64
use diesel oil 15/40w --read about it-- a fellow ga rx8 owner did many oil analysis's on various convential/synthetic and then the diesel (valvoline blue) --no doubt about it. Conventional and synthetic both loose sear viscosity that you wouldnt believe. Go to the Ga Rx 8 club to view the oil analysis--you will have to log in.
I dont want to use diesel simply because its has pretty harsh stuff in there. more than I like it to be inside my engine. Sometimes I just change my oil at 1500 miles so it doesnt matter. Its all about my mood :P
One other hint---even if your engine temp shows fully warm during your 1st drive of the day, it doesnt mean the oil is warm. When you engine temp gauge 1st reaches fully warm your oil temps are not even 140F yet. that takes another couple of miles. From what I understand oil needs to be at least 160F to do its job
olddragger
olddragger
When my water/coolant reach 90 celsius, the oil is usually around 50-60. which is NOT its optimum operating temperature.
I see my oil and water temp everyday (Defi gauges FTW)
Last edited by nycgps; 07-13-2009 at 08:58 PM.
07-14-2009, 12:09 AM
#65
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I've been reading some the the posts in this tread....10w30? my manual recommends 5w20 here in Canada which I use religiously never had any engine issue to date! Is it different in the southern states, I know in Australia they uses 5w30 because of the climate.
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
Could this be some of the reason for these engine failures!
And why is Mazda replacing engines that are not maintained properly re:10w30 oil
07-14-2009, 12:18 AM
#66
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I'm about to swap out for Redline 15w40...I think that may be their 50wt race oil plus 6oz of 2 stroke. We'll see how this works for me the rest of the summer, I've got about 25k left on my engine warranty so it couldn't hurt.
07-14-2009, 07:08 AM
#71
whenever I shop, I look all over online for best deals, sometimes I use cashback service like bing or fatwallet.
sometimes I can get great local deals too
say for example. Autozone had this promo of 5 qt of Mobil1 + mobil1 filter for 29.99. I got like 3 of them. and I have autozone rewards card, so thats got 3 points out of it, then every 6 qts of mobil1 oil purchase I can send the receipts in to mobil1 rewards for 5 dollar gift certificate.
After all the discounts, rebates, rewards and tax. its about 17 bux every 5 qts of mobil1 + mobil1 filter. not bad huh
sometimes I can get great local deals too
say for example. Autozone had this promo of 5 qt of Mobil1 + mobil1 filter for 29.99. I got like 3 of them. and I have autozone rewards card, so thats got 3 points out of it, then every 6 qts of mobil1 oil purchase I can send the receipts in to mobil1 rewards for 5 dollar gift certificate.
After all the discounts, rebates, rewards and tax. its about 17 bux every 5 qts of mobil1 + mobil1 filter. not bad huh
07-14-2009, 07:40 AM
#72
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9k, sorry about another engine.
but in my opinion, the main cause for all these "engine deaths" came from the light weight oil they recommend. 2nd is the whack OMP injection nozzle location.
I got my 7 for almost a month and I've been researching it day after day, that's why I wasnt on the 8club that often.
and the "common" knowledge on the 7club is most people use at least 10w40 lots of ppl use 20w50. RotaryGod probably knows that.
Im not sure about the FD but for FC's owner's manual, they dont really "recommend" you to go for one oil only, they give you a chart and you will decide whats best for you.
I know they have something like that in the 8's manual too, but the point is that most people just "too ignorant to think whats best for their cars, they always want a free lunch or "simple" way out, Mazda knows that, so to shut them up, they have to just "recommend the customers with something", and in 8's case, its 5w20"
Look at the chart, 20w50 gives you the "widest" range of protection for different weather. not to mention if any of the 8 owners look closely to the oil's sheer rate, as the temp increase, thinner oil is getting weaker and weaker. 5w20 has enough protection MY ***!
Great for EPA/CAFE, not so great for ANY engines.
And most people might said "hey I use 5w20 and my engine still works !" Thats good isn't it? I know my engine having problems, last sept I did a compression check outa my pocket, it was still within spec. so ? I still got all kinds of random stalling. 1/2 year later the compression dropped from 7 range to 5. Butt Dyno never really noticed anything, it did feel slower, but I (even Kevin) wasnt' expecting the comp. numbers drop so fast in just a few months.
some might say "so what, you used heavy oil ur **** still failed, so it has nothing to do with it"
Well, how about this, if I didnt change my **** to something heavier, my engine could've gone "kabooooom" way before that?
OMP design + feeding 4 cycle oil was an uber failure, but its a failure that Mazda HAS to make, this engine would NEVER sell if U gotta tell the buyers that oh yeah, you gotta fill that Tank with 2 cycle oil every 1K miles or so. Most users have zero clue about what kind of car they're getting, how could Mazda expect them to know wtf is 2 cycle oil ?
Thats all I gotta say for now, my grandfather passed away this morning and I have to take care a lot of **** with my father. *sigh*
Good luck with your replacement 9K. peace.
but in my opinion, the main cause for all these "engine deaths" came from the light weight oil they recommend. 2nd is the whack OMP injection nozzle location.
I got my 7 for almost a month and I've been researching it day after day, that's why I wasnt on the 8club that often.
and the "common" knowledge on the 7club is most people use at least 10w40 lots of ppl use 20w50. RotaryGod probably knows that.
Im not sure about the FD but for FC's owner's manual, they dont really "recommend" you to go for one oil only, they give you a chart and you will decide whats best for you.
I know they have something like that in the 8's manual too, but the point is that most people just "too ignorant to think whats best for their cars, they always want a free lunch or "simple" way out, Mazda knows that, so to shut them up, they have to just "recommend the customers with something", and in 8's case, its 5w20"
Look at the chart, 20w50 gives you the "widest" range of protection for different weather. not to mention if any of the 8 owners look closely to the oil's sheer rate, as the temp increase, thinner oil is getting weaker and weaker. 5w20 has enough protection MY ***!
Great for EPA/CAFE, not so great for ANY engines.
And most people might said "hey I use 5w20 and my engine still works !" Thats good isn't it? I know my engine having problems, last sept I did a compression check outa my pocket, it was still within spec. so ? I still got all kinds of random stalling. 1/2 year later the compression dropped from 7 range to 5. Butt Dyno never really noticed anything, it did feel slower, but I (even Kevin) wasnt' expecting the comp. numbers drop so fast in just a few months.
some might say "so what, you used heavy oil ur **** still failed, so it has nothing to do with it"
Well, how about this, if I didnt change my **** to something heavier, my engine could've gone "kabooooom" way before that?
OMP design + feeding 4 cycle oil was an uber failure, but its a failure that Mazda HAS to make, this engine would NEVER sell if U gotta tell the buyers that oh yeah, you gotta fill that Tank with 2 cycle oil every 1K miles or so. Most users have zero clue about what kind of car they're getting, how could Mazda expect them to know wtf is 2 cycle oil ?
Thats all I gotta say for now, my grandfather passed away this morning and I have to take care a lot of **** with my father. *sigh*
Good luck with your replacement 9K. peace.
What if you use premix and a think oil like 5W30 ? I mean the premix should be enough to lubricate properly at least the seals at high temps? (forget the shaft)? OR you also need 10W40 with premix? If so , why?
07-14-2009, 07:47 AM
#73
Registered
Also I believe that the 2nd, 3rd or so failure of an engine has to do with a bad rebuild or a re-use of a failed part like clogged intake manifold, problematic omp etc.
07-14-2009, 07:47 AM
#74
ok, you are understood. We need different viscosity oil in order to protect the engine in high temps.
What if you use premix and a think oil like 5W30 ? I mean the premix should be enough to lubricate properly at least the seals at high temps? (forget the shaft)? OR you also need 10W40 with premix? If so , why?
What if you use premix and a think oil like 5W30 ? I mean the premix should be enough to lubricate properly at least the seals at high temps? (forget the shaft)? OR you also need 10W40 with premix? If so , why?
Heavier weight oil has a much much MUCH stronger film strength.
Premix is used protect the seals/housing surface + it helps the seals to seal better.