Can someone please help???

I own a 05 plate 8 on 59k at tha moment and have a major issue!

I was driving the other day and suddenly i was restricted to 40 mph and 3k revs
As soon as the revs dropped it cut oug n wouldnt start up again!

When trying to start it smells like fuel.the e/m light is on too.
When i do manage to get it to start drives fine untill the temp runs up
And again it dies unless i keep revs up but this still is no more than 3k revs!

Please help as im stuck,i live in stoke on trent and seriously need to kno where to take it!
Thanks

 

That sounds very much like what happens when the MAF gets unplugged. Could also be a clogged cat, but doesn't really fit the indications of excess fuel and no-restart.

When the MAF is unplugged, the ECU shifts modes and floods fuel based entirely on RPM, and is basically drowning the spark by 3,000rpm, and there is so much fuel being dumped, that it will actually drip out of the tailpipes and puddle on the ground.


But, get the code read, it probably is connected.

 

temperature goes up!

How far? before the half way mark ,just after, or 3/4?

 

Thanks for the reply guys,

Just to add that when i was trying to start it,is sounded exactly like when the engine is flooded(its definatley not a flood)BUT after leaving it for 20 min it starts..and drives fine with e/m light on,ive took it intoday so will have some news tomorrow

Cheees

 

Could be a couple of things...sounds like limp mode. Could be the ECT sensor ( best scenario) as the part is not too expensive

Could be the MOP..not so good...the part is about $1300 Often it is just the positioning switch...so it can be corrected with an adjustment...but the dealer usually won't do it as Mazda doesn't give them the spec's to do it. Trial and error adjustment usually will work though

Could be the cat/coils/plugs ...not too bad

Good luck and let us know what they find.

 

Just an update!!

Sorry about taking time to reply but i am having a nightmare at the moment!

The garage said that the decoder came back as multiple mis-firing,so he changed the spark plugs,as i was due a service i told him to do the service too,as well as rear break pads all this for £313!! At £115 for spark plugs!
2days later i had my car back and it was driving sweet...untill i left work today,i was driving steady and after around 5 min the same thing happend...had loss of power,this time i heard a grinding noise so i pulled over...i then couldnt start the car,after 10 min it started again and drove fine.i lifted the bonnet up and noticed the engine was quite hot.to add i have no e/m light this time,im waiting for the garage to get back to me,fustrated is an understatement.

 

What you are NOT saying is largely at the crux of this problem.

Our plugs generally start failing about the same time as the plug wires AND the coils. You didn't mention anything about them being replaced. Changing the plugs is largely worthless if the problem is that the coil isn't creating the charge, or the plug wires aren't transmitting it!

I do not know the local conversions or pricing, but here in the US we can get the OEM spark plugs for $20 USD each. If that is £115 for all 4, then it seems like it's a substantial markup, since I believe the British Pound is worth more than the US dollar. Coils and wires can also be had for cheaper. We can get all 12 items (4 coils, 4 wires, 4 plugs) for $180 to $210 total, depending on what specials are running.


I would also recommend getting some MAF cleaner and cleaning the MAF sensor and the e-shaft sensor. A cheap remedy that could also be contributing to your problems. If you address the coils and the wires, and clean those 2 sensors and continue having trouble, then I would move to a vacuum leak as the next likely scenario.

 

Makes sense,ive now ordered the coils n wires online...decided im going to follow
The diy on here...just annoyed because we have a 4day weekend now =( thanks for the info tho..any suggestions on which MAF cleaner to get?

 

MAF cleaner doesn't matter, just make sure it's MAF cleaner and not Carb cleaner or anything else.
The e-shaft sensor can just be wiped off.
As RIWWP pointed out, it's most likely the coils that need changing!