clutch pedal very stiff / clutch does not disengage properly / CLUTCH PROBLEM!
#28
No longer a Celica owner!
iTrader: (1)
Hay Jay
Im having similar issues.
I found in mine,not only does the pedal go from smooth to firm and ruff,the engagement where changing.
There is a switch at the back if the pedal(towards you) if its not working/out of adjustment etc it will cause problems.
For me if its not depressed First and seconed are awesome,too far or really any its like Im ridding the clutch
Its the reverse for 4-6 no switch,Im ridding with the switch depressed its great but I cant get both to work at the same time.
Ive bleed my system several times brakes included.
And it gets better for a bit.
Im stumped as well,but hopfully the switch may help you out.
Im having similar issues.
I found in mine,not only does the pedal go from smooth to firm and ruff,the engagement where changing.
There is a switch at the back if the pedal(towards you) if its not working/out of adjustment etc it will cause problems.
For me if its not depressed First and seconed are awesome,too far or really any its like Im ridding the clutch
Its the reverse for 4-6 no switch,Im ridding with the switch depressed its great but I cant get both to work at the same time.
Ive bleed my system several times brakes included.
And it gets better for a bit.
Im stumped as well,but hopfully the switch may help you out.
#30
No longer a Celica owner!
iTrader: (1)
Yeah. This is begining to be a bit madding for me.
Tonight during aceleration its smooth with just the right amount of firmness.
But while driving slow(trying to keep my pipes quiet) it feels like crud,firm but with a mushy feel,like mud.
I Just lost my income or Id just buy a new pedal switch and slave and redo the system.
So tomorrow with the help of a talented and professional machinist,we will attempt to brace my pedal,if it fixes it I think it would only be part of the problem.
Somehow the fluid pressure is changing, the switch is not behaving properly or the instal of the clutch was so off,Ive been chasing ghost.
Im as stupted as Ive ever been,granted this is the first time Ive had my hands in a hydrolic system,its just never takin me this long to A fix the problem
B break what Im trying to fix
C just give up and take it to someone. (C is no longer an option at lest in my home town,nobody knows squat around here)
Well best of luck Jay and, please let me know what you find.
Tonight during aceleration its smooth with just the right amount of firmness.
But while driving slow(trying to keep my pipes quiet) it feels like crud,firm but with a mushy feel,like mud.
I Just lost my income or Id just buy a new pedal switch and slave and redo the system.
So tomorrow with the help of a talented and professional machinist,we will attempt to brace my pedal,if it fixes it I think it would only be part of the problem.
Somehow the fluid pressure is changing, the switch is not behaving properly or the instal of the clutch was so off,Ive been chasing ghost.
Im as stupted as Ive ever been,granted this is the first time Ive had my hands in a hydrolic system,its just never takin me this long to A fix the problem
B break what Im trying to fix
C just give up and take it to someone. (C is no longer an option at lest in my home town,nobody knows squat around here)
Well best of luck Jay and, please let me know what you find.
#31
Occupation: Converting O2
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Paramus NJ
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Jay, because you've been persistent I'm gonan take the time to help you guys out.
I've been battling problems with my clutch since 6 months after getting my car which is ridiculous cuz it only had 20k miles on it when i got it from a dealership.
Anyway,
Bleed the clutch. You did it already? well bleed it again. Bleed the brakes, bleed the master and the slave. Keep doing it. It probably took me 3-4 times until i saw some improvement.
It is a fact that the clutch position starts to change as you drive it because of the pressure change. You definitely have air in your system somewhere so at some point you'll bleed it out.
Buy the speed bleeders it just makes the process easier. There was a method for gravity bleeding and it seemed to be the quickest solution for improvement.
Switch to SS lines on everything. It seems that the temperature change really ***** with the RX-8 system.
Check your pedal bracket. I mean all the screws. I had a problem with the connection point and realized that a bolt was completely loose on the pedal bracket. Big problem stemming from such a silly issue.
Let me know more about your problem because it seems that everyone here has a different variation to the issue.
I've been battling problems with my clutch since 6 months after getting my car which is ridiculous cuz it only had 20k miles on it when i got it from a dealership.
Anyway,
Bleed the clutch. You did it already? well bleed it again. Bleed the brakes, bleed the master and the slave. Keep doing it. It probably took me 3-4 times until i saw some improvement.
It is a fact that the clutch position starts to change as you drive it because of the pressure change. You definitely have air in your system somewhere so at some point you'll bleed it out.
Buy the speed bleeders it just makes the process easier. There was a method for gravity bleeding and it seemed to be the quickest solution for improvement.
Switch to SS lines on everything. It seems that the temperature change really ***** with the RX-8 system.
Check your pedal bracket. I mean all the screws. I had a problem with the connection point and realized that a bolt was completely loose on the pedal bracket. Big problem stemming from such a silly issue.
Let me know more about your problem because it seems that everyone here has a different variation to the issue.
Last edited by tasex; 05-26-2012 at 02:44 AM.
#32
No longer a Celica owner!
iTrader: (1)
I reinforced my pedal tonight after a lengthy chat with Mazda and why they wouldnt send a replacement for the replacement that just broke.
The job we did is ugly very much so,but its smooth and solid.
It did improve my issues a bit,so now Im thinking more bleeding and a new clutch postion sensor switch,still the same deal with it.
Are there any negitaive isseus if while in 1-2 the switch isnt ingaged? It sounds bad but this is when my clutch responds best,well untill 5-6 where I have to give the pedal a nug back with my foot to engage the switch,I even gluid coins to see if it was a depression issue.
Jay did you try messing with it and if so what happened?
The job we did is ugly very much so,but its smooth and solid.
It did improve my issues a bit,so now Im thinking more bleeding and a new clutch postion sensor switch,still the same deal with it.
Are there any negitaive isseus if while in 1-2 the switch isnt ingaged? It sounds bad but this is when my clutch responds best,well untill 5-6 where I have to give the pedal a nug back with my foot to engage the switch,I even gluid coins to see if it was a depression issue.
Jay did you try messing with it and if so what happened?
#33
Hi,
I had the exact same problem. I change my slave cylinder a mount ago, but that doesn't fix the problem completely. After 2 more bleeding, the problem appear less often. Like tesex said, I think that bleeding the system is the solution.
I Will bleed all the system and see if that fix completely the problem.
If you car serial number is not in the range specified in the Mazda clutch problem TBS, don't change you slave cylinder like I did. Spend the money on a good bleeding tools instead.
I had the exact same problem. I change my slave cylinder a mount ago, but that doesn't fix the problem completely. After 2 more bleeding, the problem appear less often. Like tesex said, I think that bleeding the system is the solution.
I Will bleed all the system and see if that fix completely the problem.
If you car serial number is not in the range specified in the Mazda clutch problem TBS, don't change you slave cylinder like I did. Spend the money on a good bleeding tools instead.
#34
No longer a Celica owner!
iTrader: (1)
I made a pressuer bleeder but Im a bit leary as two run it threw the slave or the master.
Also I still have the switch issue. And above you mentioned the slave change,mine master and slave where changed,the master is not an 04,I hope this isnt the problem(?)
#35
rx8 clutch problem
thanks for the advise. I will try to get it done and bleed the system as your advised. I let you know of the problem coz I figure it out. thanks heaps for your help
#36
rx8 clutch problem
hi, I have the same clutch problem as you did in the past. Did you find out what the problem was and how did you fix it? At my end, I adjusted the clutch pedal to the factory default setting and it fix the problem for 2 weeks but the same problem persists after that also causing the transmission gear to be rough (not smooth when I changed gear). Let me know at your end.
#37
rx8 clutch problem
hi, I have the same clutch problem as you did in the past. Did you find out what the problem was and how did you fix it? At my end, I adjusted the clutch pedal to the factory default setting and it fix the problem for 2 weeks but the same problem persists after that also causing the transmission gear to be rough (not smooth when I changed gear). Let me know at your end.
#38
I'm currently having the same clutch problem as people posted in the past. The problem seems to affect my transmission as well. When I go into gear it not smooth anymore (awful feeling). please help
#39
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply, but I had to be sure that my problem was completely resolved before posting anything.
Bleeding the clutch system did resolved the problem for a while but after 4 to 6 weeks, the problem reappeared again. I had to bled it again and again...
Six months ago, I replace the break fluid with ATE Super Blue (that fluid is blue instead of gold). I bled the break system as well as the clutch system.
1 month later, guess what ? The problem was back again. When I looked at my clutch pedal from inside the car, I saw a blue liquid around the master cylinder piston. The clutch master cylinder was leaking. Being broker, it allow the oil to come out and air to come in. That why I had to bleed the clutch system often.
I fixed my master cylinder using a repair kit. I used the Seiken part no. SEK1756099. The job was very easy. I bled the system again.
My clutch is working fine for 5 months and counting. I'm now able to tell that the problem is completely solved.
Sorry for the late reply, but I had to be sure that my problem was completely resolved before posting anything.
Bleeding the clutch system did resolved the problem for a while but after 4 to 6 weeks, the problem reappeared again. I had to bled it again and again...
Six months ago, I replace the break fluid with ATE Super Blue (that fluid is blue instead of gold). I bled the break system as well as the clutch system.
1 month later, guess what ? The problem was back again. When I looked at my clutch pedal from inside the car, I saw a blue liquid around the master cylinder piston. The clutch master cylinder was leaking. Being broker, it allow the oil to come out and air to come in. That why I had to bleed the clutch system often.
I fixed my master cylinder using a repair kit. I used the Seiken part no. SEK1756099. The job was very easy. I bled the system again.
My clutch is working fine for 5 months and counting. I'm now able to tell that the problem is completely solved.
#40
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply, but I had to be sure that my problem was completely resolved before posting anything.
Bleeding the clutch system did resolved the problem for a while but after 4 to 6 weeks, the problem reappeared again. I had to bled it again and again...
Six months ago, I replace the break fluid with ATE Super Blue (that fluid is blue instead of gold). I bled the break system as well as the clutch system.
1 month later, guess what ? The problem was back again. When I looked at my clutch pedal from inside the car, I saw a blue liquid around the master cylinder piston. The clutch master cylinder was leaking. Being broker, it allow the oil to come out and air to come in. That why I had to bleed the clutch system often.
I fixed my master cylinder using a repair kit. I used the Seiken part no. SEK1756099. The job was very easy. I bled the system again.
My clutch is working fine for 5 months and counting. I'm now able to tell that the problem is completely solved.
Sorry for the late reply, but I had to be sure that my problem was completely resolved before posting anything.
Bleeding the clutch system did resolved the problem for a while but after 4 to 6 weeks, the problem reappeared again. I had to bled it again and again...
Six months ago, I replace the break fluid with ATE Super Blue (that fluid is blue instead of gold). I bled the break system as well as the clutch system.
1 month later, guess what ? The problem was back again. When I looked at my clutch pedal from inside the car, I saw a blue liquid around the master cylinder piston. The clutch master cylinder was leaking. Being broker, it allow the oil to come out and air to come in. That why I had to bleed the clutch system often.
I fixed my master cylinder using a repair kit. I used the Seiken part no. SEK1756099. The job was very easy. I bled the system again.
My clutch is working fine for 5 months and counting. I'm now able to tell that the problem is completely solved.
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