If you have a dremel tool, you may be able to cut a slot in what's left of the bolt with the cutoff wheel. Then use a flat screwdriver to turn it. The other method is to use a "screw extractor" (a.k.a. "E-Z Out"), which you can get at auto parts or hardware. You drill a hole into the center of the bolt, then the extractor screws counter-clockwise into the hole, bites into the metal and (maybe) lets you get the bolt off. Use the biggest extractor that will fit because they're notorious for snapping and a bolt with a broken screw extractor stuck in it is really a pain.

 

Basic warranty for 04/05/I think 06 too - 50K miles or 48 months

 

Well... I'm WAY past 48 months. Got the car in 2003

Closing in on 50K miles as well.

Guess I'll grab a reinforcement bracket before I put the new clutch in. Also I guess I have to get the welds reinforced if I read that correctly. What kind of shop do I go to for that?

 

any welding shop will do. like u know those iron/smith shops. NYC has them. not sure about ur area. (Long Island)

or if u have a welder and someone in the house KNOWS how to weld, let them do it. those sticks are cheap anyway.

 

no welding gear or experience in my house, but i'm sure I can find something in yellowpages.

 

You know, since you're out of warranty anyway, why not reinforce the clutch bracket and then just weld the factory bracket directly onto the firewall? I'm sure that'll help fix the weak weld issue!

 

TiG it. The firewall is just stamped, not heat treated, as far as I know. A good welder won't put in much heat and so the heat affected region would be minimal.

 

Good luck welding up there...even with a TIG

 

Well, the firewall is pretty thin from what I hear, hence the reason for those master cylinder braces. Also, welding to the firewall transforms a simple reinforce the welds project into one involving a welder being inside a cramped spot in my car. I don't think I need to go that nuts about it.

 

That RV better have a nice generator to support the TiG! Though actually my specialty is a miterer, I leave the welding to someone else I know. And dan, I've seen him weld upside down, inverted with only a small mirror to sight where to stick the torch (there was no direct line of sight) and have the welds come out perfect. Amazing stuff. I'm sure the pedal bay is a comparative piece of cake, especially if you remove the dead pedal first.

By the way, TiG welds can look great, but you gotta cut them up to see how they really are.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=2872632

 

hey guys i didnt know this clutch sanpping was a big issue, it happened to me like 6 months ago but my dealership fixed it for free

 

report it to the NHTSA please.. this should be a recall.

 

put myself too in the unhappy customers list !!!

€ 193 for the pedal + € 47,60 for the repair work... = € 240

thanx for all the pics in the thread !!

'should have welded it...

...will inform all my budies @ the Greek Forum !!

 

It's funny how it's just not important, until it happens to you. >>SNAP<< OH CRAP... I should have listened to those guys when it was easy to fix.

Yes, please spread the word. Prevention will save them a lot of money and time.

 

My love my Thread

 

You should be proud of it. It's one of the most important threads on this forum.

 

Mine is creaking but I inspected it and it does not seem to be cracked but now I'm wondering if I should get it welded or buy the bracket? It looks liek a bitch to remove, is there a DIY on the bracket installation?

 

i'll make the same offer here that i did in the other thread:

if you live close enough to knoxville, tn to drive to me, bring it on by and i'll weld the stock one up for you.

if you don't, and you are willing to pay all shipping expenses, i extend the same offer.

either way, i'll weld it for free. i am an AWS certified welder.

 

Why is there no TSB on this, or better a general recall !!!

 

i don't mean to take any business away from vendors, if that's what you're getting at.

it's not going to be as nice of a product as what you'd get from BHR and the like, but it'll definitely work.

so, if you're **** retentive about everything being perfect, go with a vendor. everyone happy?

 

i just ******* love to weld.

 

It's really not hard to take out as long as you do it before it snaps. If you wait till after it snaps, It's a pain in the **** to get the socket wrench over the nut where the bracket broke. All you do is disconnect the two switches, being careful not to snap the wire clips loose and they spring into the rotory twilight zone somewhere (like mine did... still haven't found that bitch), then take the nuts off and just pull the assembly out. Really, it's not hard. When you put it back in, you need to make sure the master cylinder is in place properly on the other side of the firewall. I wedged mine snug with a block of wood or something like that. Go back and look at photos I posted and you will see the only parts you have to deal with.

 

Thanks man, I''l have to look, I'm not sure whet you mean about the master cylinder without looking at it.

 

taking the clutch assembly off is really easy. its just 3 metal bolts and one plastic one. plus the 2 clips. very easy.

i have no experience with the weld, but the mazsport bracket that i have is really nice. especially since the assembly is made with really thin stamped steel and the bracket is pretty thick and you cannot bend it by hand, like you can with the stamped steel.