Clutch Adjustment Rod not enough Thread?
#1
Clutch Adjustment Rod not enough Thread?
So hopefully this makes sense.
I just pulled my clutch pedal and welded it back up because it was torn almost al the way through. This whole time I had issues getting the clutch to disengage fully and kept adjusting and having it give out more, to the point where I almost ran out of adjustment.
So I put the whole thing back in today with the new welds and adjusted the pedal to where it only had a 1/4" of play in it. The pedal feel is a thousand times better. However, the adjustment rod has almost no threads left engaging the pedal and the pedal itself has to be about 3"-4" off the floor to engage the clutch.
So I tried adjusting it back in where I the clutch engages about an inch off the floor but that gave me a ton of slop in the pedal when I first start to push it down.
I'm at a loss of how to fix this issue. It seems like I have a ton of play in the pedal despite having a very solid piece after it being welded.
I just pulled my clutch pedal and welded it back up because it was torn almost al the way through. This whole time I had issues getting the clutch to disengage fully and kept adjusting and having it give out more, to the point where I almost ran out of adjustment.
So I put the whole thing back in today with the new welds and adjusted the pedal to where it only had a 1/4" of play in it. The pedal feel is a thousand times better. However, the adjustment rod has almost no threads left engaging the pedal and the pedal itself has to be about 3"-4" off the floor to engage the clutch.
So I tried adjusting it back in where I the clutch engages about an inch off the floor but that gave me a ton of slop in the pedal when I first start to push it down.
I'm at a loss of how to fix this issue. It seems like I have a ton of play in the pedal despite having a very solid piece after it being welded.
#3
#5
Funny, the factory adjustment procedure states that the stroke is about 5.1". From the factory position (in line with the brake pedal) that would put it about 1" from the floor.
There isn't much to adjust here. If you tighten the firewall nuts first and the upper bolt second (as is factory recommended) the only real adjustment is the rod engaging the slave cylinder. In this case I seem to have 3-4" of play between both ends when there should only be 1"-1.5".
Even going in 1/4 turn intervals, there is no point at which there isnt a significant amount of play in my current setup, either from the floor to engagement or from the "out" position to starting to disengage.
#7
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