I'll disconnect the vacuum line and see what happens. Thanks guys! I'm gonna try OD's suggestion on ziptieing the actuator in the closed position and pulling the connector that goes to it.

 

Yep...basically everything has a compromise AP too

 

Yeah... pulling the line will tell you if the solenoid was the culprit.

 

Why? if it's closed when your sec come on..you have fuel going no where

I would swap out the actuator and try that.......I think you have to remove the alternator to do that

 

The bitch is going to be the e-clip.
When I pulled the SSV out I had to remove:
1) ACV
2) Water pump pulley
3) Drive Belt
4) Alternator bracket
5) Thermostat

Only reason I say pull the valve out is that bastard e-clip.
But if you can get it off without removing everything, more power to you!

 

Should be able to get access to it fairly easily with the UIM removed. I can get that off in about 10 mins.

 

I have proprietary tools that make getting the clip off really easy

( Dental pick )

Putting it back on is a different story But the few times I did it on a stock car I got lucky

I can re-re my intake area quite fast..I'm missing most of the stock parts in that area..no air pump/solenoid, no battery etc

 

I'm curious to hear if you actually manage to get that e-clip off only by removing the UIM.
Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Damn dan, how do you get away with emissions? I wish I had my engine bay set up like the KONI 8's I used to work on. I could have gotten to the SSV with out having to remove anything. lol

 

It's worth a try.

 

That will be interesting in a couple of years

I just had a look...and I can get at the clip without doing anything on mine..I would think the air solenoiid and tube would be in the way on a stock 8

 

Removing the ACV would definitely make more room and can be removed easily.
Maybe removing the ACV and UIM will be good enough to reach that clip easily.

 

Wish I had a stock car close......

 

I'm at a standstill right now...weather is still shitty here. I'm hoping it's the solenoid and not the actuator...I'd rather not mess with the clip at all, the UIM is easy stuff and I should be able to get another solenoid fairly quick.

 

You can also swap the SSV solenoid with the VFAD solenoid.
Just remember to cap the VFAD line if you do

 

Usually solenoids fail...period...they don't usually work intermittently, unless it's a wiring issue...so it would be less likely to be the solenoid than the Actuator in my estimation....

But i've been wrong before

If you have a spare actuator..even the VFAD one..you could connect it and see if it holds pressure..and stays open. That could help rule it out without removing it. Or you could put a vac tester on it and see if it stays under vac...that would tesst the solenoid...if the vac fluctuates it would be the solenoid

 

Will try, thanks again guys.

 

Nah. The AP has full control of the staging and the SSV/APV/VDI.
For the most part, the OE tuning on that is pretty good, so I leave it alone.
On FI Apps, I leave the VDI shut since it has no benefit in opening. I also move the APV open point around, depending on the size of the injectors the user has employed.

Nah. Just use the air pump solenoid. Swap the vacuum line and the harness connector. Easy.

 

That wasn't the one I was talking about There is no problem with the AP in running the intake valves..or the OMP...

How about the injectors

 

Damn... good idea!

 

You can control the staging of the secondaries. The P2s are tied to load and scaling, so you can effectively move the P2 engagement around, but it will still fall under the OE strategy (which is exceptionally good) and is disengaged from the APV.

 

Thanks Jeff, I'll be doing that and go from there.

 

Alright, I did the method Jeff suggested. The SSV is still chattering. If I put any pressure on the actuator the chattering stops. I even pulled the vacuum line to the actuator while the car was running and the SSV would still chatter but as soon as I touched it in any way the chattering would stop. Maybe something to do with the linkage itself. Guess I need to get another actuator and try to get that swapped out.

I even did what OD suggested about ziptieing the actuator closed and pulling the secondary electrical connector going to it and plug the vacuum line...still got the hard start up and hesitation below 4k. I think I need to swap out those primary fuel injectors...it really does sound like it's not getting enough fuel. I'm ordering a fuel pressure gauge from Summit this week to install in the engine bay. But I'm almost positive I'm getting enough pressure from the pump, it is only a few months old.

 

Sounds like the diaphragm is leaking....

You have a flacid actuator

 

^Agree