Any ideas?
#26
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
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Come on Swoope.....you should have the UIM down to about 20 minutes by now
You need a lot of crap to plug up the filter baskets on a set of injectors.....I had a set out of a 87 FC that went 200K miles...and they were clean as a whistle
If you think you got a bunch of crap in there....pull the UIM and both fuel rails..and then flush out the plumbing. Send the injectors in to be cleaned and flow tested...should only be about $20 per injector..and then you will be sure
I would fix the SSV actuation first though...it idles like crap with it open
You need a lot of crap to plug up the filter baskets on a set of injectors.....I had a set out of a 87 FC that went 200K miles...and they were clean as a whistle
If you think you got a bunch of crap in there....pull the UIM and both fuel rails..and then flush out the plumbing. Send the injectors in to be cleaned and flow tested...should only be about $20 per injector..and then you will be sure
I would fix the SSV actuation first though...it idles like crap with it open
and kinda what i was going to recommend is i would send the injectors to nick, let him have them cleaned so he could put them in.
and he could send me the old ones.. better idea than having the car down for a week or two.
beers
#28
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i have another actuator if you need it dude--let me know.
the only thing it could be is the e clip or a hole in the diagram--like dan said?
You can also do this--closed the vavle manually and zip tie it closed. Un plug the secondary swtich, pull the vacuum line (plug it please) and then drive the car and see if your low end power came back.
if it doesnt then you have more problems--if it does then problem known and can be solved.
OD
the only thing it could be is the e clip or a hole in the diagram--like dan said?
You can also do this--closed the vavle manually and zip tie it closed. Un plug the secondary swtich, pull the vacuum line (plug it please) and then drive the car and see if your low end power came back.
if it doesnt then you have more problems--if it does then problem known and can be solved.
OD
#29
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I think the valve is normally open...and the actuator closes it in low load/rpm conditions
So if you close it manually it should idle better...but it will not run well up top..it will be squirting fuel into a closed space..and airflow will suffer
If the SSV is failing to close, there should be codes galore.......don't you have a CEL...??
So if you close it manually it should idle better...but it will not run well up top..it will be squirting fuel into a closed space..and airflow will suffer
If the SSV is failing to close, there should be codes galore.......don't you have a CEL...??
#30
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No codes at all.
*edit*
It's been pretty wet today so I haven't been able to do much. But I did test the actuator with a hand pump and it holds it's pressure when closed. So if the actuator is good maybe the solenoid isn't functioning properly? But wouldn't that also cause a CEL under normal circumstances? Once it dries up a little I want ziptie the actuator closed and see if it solves my low rpm hesitation. I also have to get a helper, other than my wife, to help me with checking the actuator while the car is running. I want to see if the actuator is closing properly with increased rpm's up to 4k, if it's not then definitely the solenoid has to be the culprit for that issue. Then it's off to see if the injectors still need to be swapped.
*edit*
It's been pretty wet today so I haven't been able to do much. But I did test the actuator with a hand pump and it holds it's pressure when closed. So if the actuator is good maybe the solenoid isn't functioning properly? But wouldn't that also cause a CEL under normal circumstances? Once it dries up a little I want ziptie the actuator closed and see if it solves my low rpm hesitation. I also have to get a helper, other than my wife, to help me with checking the actuator while the car is running. I want to see if the actuator is closing properly with increased rpm's up to 4k, if it's not then definitely the solenoid has to be the culprit for that issue. Then it's off to see if the injectors still need to be swapped.
Last edited by I8U; 08-02-2009 at 02:02 PM.
#37
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I've been looking for a diagram to show what position the SSV is in when the actuator does not have any vacuum to it and what position the SSV is in when the actuator has vacuum pressure.
edit, Thanks for the clarification Jeff.
Now...
When I apply a small of pressure to the actuator by hand the chattering stops and the idle seems to smooth out...I want to ziptie the actuator in the full down position to test out the low rpm load hesitation. Am I working this the right way?
edit, Thanks for the clarification Jeff.
Now...
When I apply a small of pressure to the actuator by hand the chattering stops and the idle seems to smooth out...I want to ziptie the actuator in the full down position to test out the low rpm load hesitation. Am I working this the right way?
#38
Grasshopper
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Might help you visualize whats going on inside the manifold.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-troubleshoot-intake-valves-174009/
#39
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Thanks Jon...I totally forgot I actually saved that video of yours a few weeks ago. Question? If I wire the SSV open, will that have an effect on my low end hesitation?
#41
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Is it possible that because the actuator is chattering that the SSV isn't staying all the way closed at low rpm load and that could be causing the hesitation? Then it would be safe to say the SSV solenoid is most likely the problem?
#43
Grasshopper
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But the solenoid is only used to introduce vacuum from the intake into the line (under certain load and rpm) and open the valve.
Can't see how the solenoid is causing the problem at idle.
You should be able to disconnect the hose to the actuator and get the same results.
Now if you disconnect the hose and it didn't chatter, then I would suspect the solenoid.
Can't see how the solenoid is causing the problem at idle.
You should be able to disconnect the hose to the actuator and get the same results.
Now if you disconnect the hose and it didn't chatter, then I would suspect the solenoid.
#48
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In the INTx it is closed at idle and opens at whatever you set it at above idle. Most opened it quickly like at 1800RPM or so...didn't seem to make a difference as long as it didn't cycle at fast idle speeds.
I does idle like crap with it open...but you can tune it to run OK at idle with it open with more fuel and different timing...not sure why you would want to though
I does idle like crap with it open...but you can tune it to run OK at idle with it open with more fuel and different timing...not sure why you would want to though
#49
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The valve should be closed whenever the secondary injectors are not firing. It is as simple as that.
There is no benefit - FI or NA - to having it open at any other time.
The Int-X programming for this was simply a bandaid to address the lack of interaction in its control of the secondary injectors and that port.
There is no benefit - FI or NA - to having it open at any other time.
The Int-X programming for this was simply a bandaid to address the lack of interaction in its control of the secondary injectors and that port.