Any ideas?
08-02-2009, 03:13 PM
#51
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll disconnect the vacuum line and see what happens. Thanks guys! I'm gonna try OD's suggestion on ziptieing the actuator in the closed position and pulling the connector that goes to it.
08-02-2009, 03:21 PM
#55
When I pulled the SSV out I had to remove:
1) ACV
2) Water pump pulley
3) Drive Belt
4) Alternator bracket
5) Thermostat
Only reason I say pull the valve out is that bastard e-clip.
But if you can get it off without removing everything, more power to you!
08-02-2009, 03:26 PM
#57
I have proprietary tools that make getting the clip off really easy 
( Dental pick
)
Putting it back on is a different story But the few times I did it on a stock car I got lucky
I can re-re my intake area quite fast..I'm missing most of the stock parts in that area..no air pump/solenoid, no battery etc
( Dental pick
)Putting it back on is a different story
But the few times I did it on a stock car I got luckyI can re-re my intake area quite fast..I'm missing most of the stock parts in that area..no air pump/solenoid, no battery etc
Last edited by dannobre; 08-02-2009 at 03:35 PM.
08-02-2009, 03:28 PM
#59
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn dan, how do you get away with emissions? I wish I had my engine bay set up like the KONI 8's I used to work on. I could have gotten to the SSV with out having to remove anything. lol
08-02-2009, 03:52 PM
#64
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm at a standstill right now...weather is still shitty here. I'm hoping it's the solenoid and not the actuator...I'd rather not mess with the clip at all, the UIM is easy stuff and I should be able to get another solenoid fairly quick.
08-02-2009, 03:56 PM
#66
Usually solenoids fail...period...they don't usually work intermittently, unless it's a wiring issue...so it would be less likely to be the solenoid than the Actuator in my estimation....
But i've been wrong before
If you have a spare actuator..even the VFAD one..you could connect it and see if it holds pressure..and stays open. That could help rule it out without removing it. Or you could put a vac tester on it and see if it stays under vac...that would tesst the solenoid...if the vac fluctuates it would be the solenoid
But i've been wrong before
If you have a spare actuator..even the VFAD one..you could connect it and see if it holds pressure..and stays open. That could help rule it out without removing it. Or you could put a vac tester on it and see if it stays under vac...that would tesst the solenoid...if the vac fluctuates it would be the solenoid
Last edited by dannobre; 08-02-2009 at 03:59 PM.
08-02-2009, 05:14 PM
#68
Nah. The AP has full control of the staging and the SSV/APV/VDI.
For the most part, the OE tuning on that is pretty good, so I leave it alone.
On FI Apps, I leave the VDI shut since it has no benefit in opening. I also move the APV open point around, depending on the size of the injectors the user has employed.
Nah. Just use the air pump solenoid. Swap the vacuum line and the harness connector. Easy.
For the most part, the OE tuning on that is pretty good, so I leave it alone.
On FI Apps, I leave the VDI shut since it has no benefit in opening. I also move the APV open point around, depending on the size of the injectors the user has employed.
Nah. Just use the air pump solenoid. Swap the vacuum line and the harness connector. Easy.
08-03-2009, 05:40 PM
#73
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, I did the method Jeff suggested. The SSV is still chattering. If I put any pressure on the actuator the chattering stops. I even pulled the vacuum line to the actuator while the car was running and the SSV would still chatter but as soon as I touched it in any way the chattering would stop. Maybe something to do with the linkage itself. Guess I need to get another actuator and try to get that swapped out.
I even did what OD suggested about ziptieing the actuator closed and pulling the secondary electrical connector going to it and plug the vacuum line...still got the hard start up and hesitation below 4k. I think I need to swap out those primary fuel injectors...it really does sound like it's not getting enough fuel. I'm ordering a fuel pressure gauge from Summit this week to install in the engine bay. But I'm almost positive I'm getting enough pressure from the pump, it is only a few months old.
I even did what OD suggested about ziptieing the actuator closed and pulling the secondary electrical connector going to it and plug the vacuum line...still got the hard start up and hesitation below 4k. I think I need to swap out those primary fuel injectors...it really does sound like it's not getting enough fuel. I'm ordering a fuel pressure gauge from Summit this week to install in the engine bay. But I'm almost positive I'm getting enough pressure from the pump, it is only a few months old.