12 mpg update
12-09-2010, 01:46 PM
#26
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Hence why I also said earlier to go find a good group of locals. Swap parts around from known good working cars and let experienced people drive your car before and after. $200 for "Yup, your compression is fine." isn't justifyable to me.
12-09-2010, 01:54 PM
#28
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and that's 1 big reason why a compression test seems pointless right now, because there's the chance I get nothing out of it, so there goes $200 
12-09-2010, 02:20 PM
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a few things that i didnt see mentioned here
1) depending on the nature of the dealer you take it to, it may be pretty difficult to get warrantee motor replacement considering yu dont know the maintenance history of the car
2) you really do need to do basic maintenance first as mentioned, like cleaning the MAF etc
3) thats pretty shitty mpg, especially for drafting, but it should be noted that if you dont know what you're doing trying to draft can actually decrease your mileage. theres only a narrow window where drafting works, and its a close/dangerous one
1) depending on the nature of the dealer you take it to, it may be pretty difficult to get warrantee motor replacement considering yu dont know the maintenance history of the car
2) you really do need to do basic maintenance first as mentioned, like cleaning the MAF etc
3) thats pretty shitty mpg, especially for drafting, but it should be noted that if you dont know what you're doing trying to draft can actually decrease your mileage. theres only a narrow window where drafting works, and its a close/dangerous one
12-09-2010, 02:26 PM
#30
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well aware about drafting too.. I only felt comfortable being half a car length away because I knew my brakes were more powerful than a 2 ton monster lol. I'll look into the maf sensor, because I'm unfamiliar with that
12-09-2010, 05:15 PM
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at 60 mph, and 1/2 car length distance. if the driver in front stomps the brakes(for deer, drunk driver, or whatever) you have just under one quarter of a second to recognize his braking, react, and at least match in deceleration. otherwise you just ate **** and likely removed yourself from the gene pool. good job
12-09-2010, 05:16 PM
#35
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oh, so thats the maf/iat.. that is the easiest thing to do. I'll feel like an idiot if i get 18 mpg after cleaning that... i can always hope 
12-09-2010, 05:18 PM
#36
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agree with devilboi, thats too far to draft effectively, and still stupid as ****. your brakes are not in question, its your ability to process infomation and react in the appropriate amount of time.
at 60 mph, and 1/2 car length distance. if the driver in front stomps the brakes(for deer, drunk driver, or whatever) you have just under one quarter of a second to recognize his braking, react, and at least match in deceleration. otherwise you just ate **** and likely removed yourself from the gene pool. good job
at 60 mph, and 1/2 car length distance. if the driver in front stomps the brakes(for deer, drunk driver, or whatever) you have just under one quarter of a second to recognize his braking, react, and at least match in deceleration. otherwise you just ate **** and likely removed yourself from the gene pool. good job
12-09-2010, 05:24 PM
#38
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no, it doesnt really answer the faint gas smell though.. and i'm not the only one who has smelt it... and fyi, i wouldnt have begun to know where to start with a search since i got info before (plugs, wires, coils) but no luck
12-09-2010, 05:45 PM
#39
I pointed you in the right direction before. 
11-28-2010, 12:56 PM #2 RX8Soldier
Being a lemon means it's more to repair than it is to maintain.
So, if I were you, I'd take good care of your 8 (ie let it warm up for at least 30 sec before you drive, and keep rpm's below 3500 until near normal operating temps, unless you wanna crack your seals)
No offense, but it sounds like you're just being lazy about the car. Keep it in good order and your car can last. If not, well, the lemon title will be justified...
Read this https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/congratulations-you-got-8-a-202548/#post3666147
Gas mileage... could be a number of problems. What do you get per tank?
11-28-2010, 12:56 PM #2 RX8Soldier Being a lemon means it's more to repair than it is to maintain.
So, if I were you, I'd take good care of your 8 (ie let it warm up for at least 30 sec before you drive, and keep rpm's below 3500 until near normal operating temps, unless you wanna crack your seals)
No offense, but it sounds like you're just being lazy about the car. Keep it in good order and your car can last. If not, well, the lemon title will be justified...
Read this https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/congratulations-you-got-8-a-202548/#post3666147
Gas mileage... could be a number of problems. What do you get per tank?
12-09-2010, 06:26 PM
#40
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okay, i let it warm up. thats not getting me better gas mileage, and i already do that.. im expecting to do some kind of repair to fix this, as my mpg isnt going to magically come back. IF i was lazy, which i somewhat am, because i just get this swamped feeling when everything is going on, then i might just take it to a dealer and let them deal with it, but i want to fix it, and i want to find out the solution.. but i'll get right onto cleaning the sensors as soon as i can
12-15-2010, 01:30 PM
#41
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Our cars run pig rich from the factory...so the Racing Beat Flash and the MazdaManiac AccessPort Tune do provide for a better mpg. This is also why you hear people say to drive the car like you stole it. Higher RPM ranges provide more air to fuel which in turn helps your gas mileage.
I have been working on trying to get my mpg up a little bit lately too and had been wondering this..... So shifting later is the best for getting good gas mileage with the rotary? Is there a certain rpm that is too high where you start losing mpg again?
12-15-2010, 01:55 PM
#42
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Personally I tend to shift in the neighborhood of 6K and get to 6th gear once Im cruising. Once I need to accelerate I downshift accordingly and do not attempt to accelerate in 6th gear...ever.
12-15-2010, 03:21 PM
#43
How long do you let your car warm up? Remember idling gets you 0 mpg. Start the car and drive.
POOR FUEL ECONOMY
DESCRIPTION The fuel economy is unsatisfactory.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
• Contaminated air cleaner element
• Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports)
• Poor fuel quality
• Inadequate fuel pressure
• Pressure regulator (integrated in fuel pump unit) malfunction
• Fuel pump relay stuck closed
• Fuel leakage from fuel injector
• Restriction in exhaust system
• Erratic signal from eccentric shaft position sensor
• Improper MAF sensor installation
• Improper fuel injector control operation (abnormal signals from MAF, ECT, front/rear HO2S and IAT sensors to PCM)
• Knock sensor malfunction (abnormal signal to PCM)
• Contaminated MAF sensor
• Improper engine compression
– Engine internal malfunction
– Abnormal engine oil condition (viscosity, deterioration)
– Low oil pressure
– Excessive fuel pressure
– Metering oil pump malfunction
• Leakage or clogging in oil pipe
• Leakage or clogging in oil nozzle
• Eccentric shaft bypass valve malfunction (stuck open)
• Improper cooling fan control system operation
• Thermostat malfunction (stuck open)
• Improper engine coolant level
• Improper ignition timing
• Weak spark
• Spark plug malfunction
• Brake dragging
• Low tire pressure
• Clutch slippage (MT)
• Improper ATF level (AT)
• Improper A/C operation (A/C cut-off control does not operate.)
BOOKMARK THIS!!! http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
POOR FUEL ECONOMY
DESCRIPTION The fuel economy is unsatisfactory.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
• Contaminated air cleaner element
• Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports)
• Poor fuel quality
• Inadequate fuel pressure
• Pressure regulator (integrated in fuel pump unit) malfunction
• Fuel pump relay stuck closed
• Fuel leakage from fuel injector
• Restriction in exhaust system
• Erratic signal from eccentric shaft position sensor
• Improper MAF sensor installation
• Improper fuel injector control operation (abnormal signals from MAF, ECT, front/rear HO2S and IAT sensors to PCM)
• Knock sensor malfunction (abnormal signal to PCM)
• Contaminated MAF sensor
• Improper engine compression
– Engine internal malfunction
– Abnormal engine oil condition (viscosity, deterioration)
– Low oil pressure
– Excessive fuel pressure
– Metering oil pump malfunction
• Leakage or clogging in oil pipe
• Leakage or clogging in oil nozzle
• Eccentric shaft bypass valve malfunction (stuck open)
• Improper cooling fan control system operation
• Thermostat malfunction (stuck open)
• Improper engine coolant level
• Improper ignition timing
• Weak spark
• Spark plug malfunction
• Brake dragging
• Low tire pressure
• Clutch slippage (MT)
• Improper ATF level (AT)
• Improper A/C operation (A/C cut-off control does not operate.)
BOOKMARK THIS!!! http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
12-15-2010, 08:22 PM
#47
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judging from your above mpgs, it seems you have either a lot of harsh stopping, stand still starts, etc, because you have a low city mpg, but a high highway mpg.. My little trip following my buddy was the true test for my highway mpg, and it failed..
and i dont leave it on for like 5 minutes. if i know im about to leave, or go somewhere, i'll let it warm up for like a minute, thats it
and i'm going to try and get it seafoamed this weekend... maybe it'd help
and i dont leave it on for like 5 minutes. if i know im about to leave, or go somewhere, i'll let it warm up for like a minute, thats it
and i'm going to try and get it seafoamed this weekend... maybe it'd help
12-15-2010, 09:39 PM
#50
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uhmmm...no...it's just a sign of a rotary engine. It takes a lot of work to get that little puppy goin and you are going to pay for it in your mpg. Following your buddy on the highway may or may not have been a true test, because as stated before, if you draft a vehicle wrong it will actually hurt your mpg as you fight aerodynamics. But, you do have a lot to do before your mpg catches up with my best of 28mpg of straight highway driving and I think we all agree there.