McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

The results indeed point to low compression, quite low but not the lowest I've seen on a running / driving / reliably starting RX8 4 port auto... I say that because mine was lower.

Most often on the forums, people will report their compression numbers in KGF, so here's a handy calculator to translate your KPA into KGF:
RX-8 Web Compression Calculator

That should help you compare apples to apples.

Moving on:

Starter: I'm assuming they did the compression test with the new starter? Because the starter in the video you posted at the beginning of this thread was not spinning at 270+ RPM! (sounded closer to 150-180rpm).

SSV: On my healthy 4 port RX8 at normal idle if I muck about with the SSV (changing between open and closed by hand), it changes the tone a bit, maybe drops the RPM by 60 - 100 at best. You'd be wise to clean it, and a sea-foam isn't going to do much good. Pull your upper intake manifold and you'll get a good view of the SSV. Yeah, the SSV is a bear to remove but cheaper to do yourself. Not worth having the dealer do it at this stage of the game, as they'll drop your engine to do it.

Seafoam: if you want to do it, it's on you, read this thread first: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...r-pics-241867/. There's MUCH DEBATE about its effectiveness, and pay particular attention to nycgps's post that states simply (paraphrased and translated to English) "cleaning won't reverse engine wear." I sea foamed the everliving crap out of my old engine hoping for a quick fix, plus I had the dealer do a few decarb's... and when RR disassembled it he noted that there was still a ton of carbon on the rotors. YMMV.

Tune-up: Make sure you have good, clean plugs; a good clean SSV & MAF; a clean air filter; new coils; new wires, clean oil (etc, etc) and of course that new starter and you should be good to go until the compression gets too low to start, even with a new starter (which will happen fairly soon with those numbers).

Also: Reset your PCM (by pulling the battery cable, alternatively you can do the much vaunted "20 brake stomp"), give the car a chance to idle for a good 10 minutes with none of the accessories on. Then turn on your AC and go for a drive. That helped my car learn what it's "new normal" was back when my compression was crap before I replaced the engine. It'll take a few drive cycles (explained elsewhere) to get this down, but assuming good coils, plugs, wires, clean SSV, etc even with that low compression your car shouldn't stall out in "drive" at stoplights.

You've got some work ahead of you, and yeah you'll need to rebuild/replace that engine in the near (5000 - 10000 miles) future, but you should be able to squeeze a few more miles out of it before it's completely gone.

I only say this because I did it. Your mileage may vary greatly and the last thing I want to do is promote a wild goose chase and get your hopes up. The bottom line is that you need a replacement engine soon, but you *may* be able to squeak by on this one until you raise the $$ to rebuild / replace.

Again, best of luck with this. Yeah it definitely sucks, but think of the positive: when you get a replacement engine, you'll appreciate the hell out of it!!

Cheers, and let us know if you have any questions.

Ryan