wheel hop
02-11-2008, 12:54 AM
#26
Its not like i launch at 7k at every stop light ive probably done it 8-9 times, only at the track though, so i can get decent respectable times, still would like to know if a sway bar or another item will stop the hop....i assure i know how to drive my car , and as previously said i would prefer not to have to feather the clutch......
The sway helps the issue by helping to keep things even in the rear...the stiffer the setting the more the rear is going to want to keep the wheels even on the pavement...
The sway helps to get good hooking...but its not going to completely make the issue disappear...part of the problem is your launch technique...
I would advise not launching above 6k ever...I usually drop somewhere between 5.5k-6k and feather the clutch out...
In first gear on a good N/A MT...thats all you should really need...anything above that range is simply wasteful and hard on the car...
PS: Tires help a ton...get at least 245's...but 265-275's really help hooking...
02-11-2008, 04:55 AM
#28
Yes, I did. Not sanctioned but we were crazy just the same. Had a friend with a 2 acre backyard so we rented a Bobcat and built a track. Plus, we used to go to northern MI and ride the fire trails and what-not. Plenty of crashes in my history. Not to mention when the guys in my neighborhood were teenagers we used to "Rally" with out cars and flipping them on the dirt roads wasn't uncommon. That's why we drove beaters. Had that desire been nurtured I could be driving an Evo or STi right now.
that is where the phrase feather comes from.. as a quick stab of the clutch... always regains traction on a bike, without dumping the throttle..
i use that here to mean the same. if that is not correct, i am sure i will have to search,,
but i have never seen feather not used in motorcycle terms...
beers
02-11-2008, 09:33 AM
#29
You simply dump the clutch at some high rpm and ride it out??
"feather" is the best word I can come up with to explain what you need to do...adjust the pressure being applied to the clutch as you dance on the line of grip and slip...
as soon as you begin depressing the clutch your right foot should be heading to the floor
usually...as long as you've calculated right...by the time the car is hooking up...you have sufficient forward momentum to keep your power delivery going as you release the clutch completely...while your right foot is firmly on the floor...
when I get it perfect, I usually have a little under 2 secs of wheelspin @ WOT in 2nd...that one I ride out as its usually already on that edge of grip and slip...
in N/A trim after all my modifications...my buddy in his STi cannot get away from me on a launch...I'll stick right on his bumper well into 70 mph...
i have yet to go to a drag strip because thats generally not my kind of thing...but the 8 is not really a slouch in the straight line either...you simply have to know how to launch it and keep the engine boiling...
PS: TIRES!! I'm on RPF1's w/ Toyo Semi-Slick R888's in 265 trim...and I STILL get spin on 2nd...
02-11-2008, 10:10 AM
#30
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what spring shock setup would you suggest for help with the wheel hop. I would obviously like to eliminate it if at all possible. I planned on coilovers but i got side tracked by engine management and gauges. so now i am thinking a little bit of a cheaper route
02-11-2008, 04:13 PM
#34
Finally Boosted!!!!!!!
I have never gotten wheel hop with anything except a launch. My Tokicos and springs help but with the turbo I think I will be getting a set of sways before very long.
02-11-2008, 04:20 PM
#35
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(snip)
You simply dump the clutch at some high rpm and ride it out??
"feather" is the best word I can come up with to explain what you need to do...adjust the pressure being applied to the clutch as you dance on the line of grip and slip...
as soon as you begin depressing the clutch your right foot should be heading to the floor
(snip)
I've read (like you're saying) that I should feather the clutch a bit. Others have told me that simply releasing it quickly, but not side-stepping it, is enough. The main point I've seen people argue about is throttle action at that point. Some say I'm wheel hopping because I floor it as I release the clutch. Other say I should wait till the tires start grabbing (no hop, no peeling) and THEN stomp it.
I'm trying to get the best launch without too much wear and tear, eg.: not burning the clutch and not busting my diff, but since I'm not to keen on slipping the clutch, it's either bog down or wheel hop. No matter what I do, I doesn't peel... I always thought that in order of 0% to 100% torque down, it would go "bogging - wheel hop - tires lose traction and peel" and that just dropping the clutch would lead to instant peel, OVER the hopping but my experience seems to indicate that wheel hop is actually an easier "exit" for the suspension than fighting the tire grip and peel.
Am making some sense, in a n00b way?
Last edited by Mendossa; 02-11-2008 at 04:26 PM.
02-11-2008, 06:21 PM
#36
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The wheel hop is really bad with the snow tires and also bad with my RE050A summer tires. In the rain it really scared the hell out of me a few weeks ago.... it will be solved this spring
Last edited by r0tor; 02-11-2008 at 06:25 PM.
02-11-2008, 06:33 PM
#38
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am i the only one that can spin the wheels up on a 1-2 shift and a healthy chirp at least on the 2-3 shift? maybe i didn't graduate from the shitty school of shifting -shrug-
02-12-2008, 04:10 PM
#40
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It is the wheel hop on the 1-2 shift that is most of my problem. 
I don't have enough power for it to hop at the 2-3 shift, but I suspect it would if the power was there (maybe after I install my nitrous kit
).
I hardly ever drop the clutch to launch, so wheel hop at launch is not my problem.
Does it make sense to just install a more rigid rear sway bar or should you replace both front and rear sways? Overall, I am happy with the handling of the car, just hate the wheel hop.
I don't have enough power for it to hop at the 2-3 shift, but I suspect it would if the power was there (maybe after I install my nitrous kit
). I hardly ever drop the clutch to launch, so wheel hop at launch is not my problem.
Does it make sense to just install a more rigid rear sway bar or should you replace both front and rear sways? Overall, I am happy with the handling of the car, just hate the wheel hop.
02-12-2008, 05:51 PM
#42
i give a healthy CHIRP at 68 mph when going into 3rd gear. and thats not even launching the car.. hell if i had enough ***** and road id CHIRP 4th for you guys.. and you dont have to redline to do it either.. i havent yet launched my car. im trying to see facts on what ways the best rpm range. front wheel car was easy.. i hope it spretty much same setup. just pick a rev and play with the clutch on the release...
02-12-2008, 08:24 PM
#44
Thanks for the informative post Twinky. I've been lurking and participating in wheel hop threads for a while but never really got an answer to my interrogation and you might be able to answer it for me.
I've read (like you're saying) that I should feather the clutch a bit. Others have told me that simply releasing it quickly, but not side-stepping it, is enough. The main point I've seen people argue about is throttle action at that point. Some say I'm wheel hopping because I floor it as I release the clutch. Other say I should wait till the tires start grabbing (no hop, no peeling) and THEN stomp it.
I'm trying to get the best launch without too much wear and tear, eg.: not burning the clutch and not busting my diff, but since I'm not to keen on slipping the clutch, it's either bog down or wheel hop. No matter what I do, I doesn't peel... I always thought that in order of 0% to 100% torque down, it would go "bogging - wheel hop - tires lose traction and peel" and that just dropping the clutch would lead to instant peel, OVER the hopping but my experience seems to indicate that wheel hop is actually an easier "exit" for the suspension than fighting the tire grip and peel.
Am making some sense, in a n00b way?
I've read (like you're saying) that I should feather the clutch a bit. Others have told me that simply releasing it quickly, but not side-stepping it, is enough. The main point I've seen people argue about is throttle action at that point. Some say I'm wheel hopping because I floor it as I release the clutch. Other say I should wait till the tires start grabbing (no hop, no peeling) and THEN stomp it.
I'm trying to get the best launch without too much wear and tear, eg.: not burning the clutch and not busting my diff, but since I'm not to keen on slipping the clutch, it's either bog down or wheel hop. No matter what I do, I doesn't peel... I always thought that in order of 0% to 100% torque down, it would go "bogging - wheel hop - tires lose traction and peel" and that just dropping the clutch would lead to instant peel, OVER the hopping but my experience seems to indicate that wheel hop is actually an easier "exit" for the suspension than fighting the tire grip and peel.
Am making some sense, in a n00b way?
The key points (in my opinion...)
You must get your revs high...and your focus is to keep it screaming as hard as you possibly can...this engine's powerband in N/A trim requires you drive it in this manner for the maximum amount of fun...thankfully this engine loves what most people would consider abuse...it would live with a constant beep if it could...
This car is relatively light compared to others...but doing whatever you can to lower that is always a good thing...think unsprung weight first...then the other stuff...
So...that said...I find it EASIER to drop the gas as soon as you launch and keep your foot down at all times...
Its easier to modulate with the clutch...since as you engage you can control the rpm with how quickly you let out the clutch...
Because this is no torque beast...its not going to that terribly hard on the clutch...especially if your dropping from about 5-6k...
You DONT want to simply dump the clutch as quickly as possible because the shock is harder on the drivetrain than abusing your clutch...
If your having issues with clutch modulation (on/off feeling) you might want to adjust your clutch...it might be in need of adjustment...
02-12-2008, 08:27 PM
#45
It is the wheel hop on the 1-2 shift that is most of my problem.
I don't have enough power for it to hop at the 2-3 shift, but I suspect it would if the power was there (maybe after I install my nitrous kit ).
I hardly ever drop the clutch to launch, so wheel hop at launch is not my problem.
Does it make sense to just install a more rigid rear sway bar or should you replace both front and rear sways? Overall, I am happy with the handling of the car, just hate the wheel hop.
I don't have enough power for it to hop at the 2-3 shift, but I suspect it would if the power was there (maybe after I install my nitrous kit
). I hardly ever drop the clutch to launch, so wheel hop at launch is not my problem.
Does it make sense to just install a more rigid rear sway bar or should you replace both front and rear sways? Overall, I am happy with the handling of the car, just hate the wheel hop.
I replaced the front and rear with the PT sways and have been very happy...
I have run just about every permutation in adjustment so I could feel and understand what the adjustment translates to...
Right now...I'm running full soft on the front and rear due to my camber...
The car has much more grip by reintroducing body roll to take advantage of the camber...
That is still messing with me meow...
02-12-2008, 08:27 PM
#46
Heh...I win!!! Haa
02-12-2008, 08:30 PM
#47
If I may throw more of my opinion in here; years ago I tried driving for a few weeks with just the rear sway having been swapped. It really ruined the handling balance and caused oversteer. Once I also swapped in the matching front bar the balance was restored and I have loved the handling ever since.
Now that I've started to do my own alignments...understanding the implications of a "minor" change and why its created the produced effects has become almost a journey into madness itself...
02-15-2008, 11:34 AM
#48
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