prighello

Okay before the search ****'s decend, I have read through most of the premix sticky which isn't exactly concise. Seems there are lots of opinions. So, what is cat safe for premixing:

TCW3?
JASO-FD?
ISO-EGD?

Does brand matter? Please don't just reply with...use idemitsu, because I am looking for something I can go buy in a local store rather than mail order.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Go find something non marine (not TCW3) - suitable for two stroke motorcycles . JASO FD is good .

ken-x8

Is the stuff you buy in a hardware store, for use in lawnmowers and weed whackers, suitable?

Ken

Chad D.

iTrader: (19)

Most are but they can be expensive, for quality (tested) ones.
The bottle is usually small for lawn equipment 2cy, and if you are premixing you tend to want to buy more quantity to offset the cost.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Being impractical and brash becomes you ...

the1jesster

O no not again and again and again

lepichichi

iTrader: (10)

^^ lol

I use idemitsu and i had no problems so far
http://mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

^+1 with the Idemitsu Premix

prighello

Wow, most these replies are useless.

I'm starting to think no one really knows which is why I cannot find a straight answer on this forum.

Snrub

I'm fairly certain the answer for most pre-mixes is that they're not cat appropriate. It stands to reason that it might clog the cat over time.

Not to open a whole can of worms, but no one can produce solid evidence to prove that premixing is necessary for the street. This is just another reason not to do it. IMO premixing in a street car is in the same category as the ATF "solution", shoving a water hose in the intake, etc. They're not credible techniques to be used on a properly functioning street car. Focus on ensuring your MOP is functioning correctly.

prighello

WOW is right...try to read the OP before replying. Notice the part where I state... "Please don't just reply with...use idemitsu, because I am looking for something I can go buy in a local store rather than mail order."

And the sticky…it’s over 100 pages and most of it isn’t useful.

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

Premix is meant to burn and it burns clean and should have little affect on the cat converter. Use whatever premix you can get at your local autoparts store. I like Idemitsu since it is for rotary engines.

laythor

since mazda has never released information on the testing of premix in the RX8 you are not going to find any hard data supporting it's use.

Anything out there is either anecdotal, conventional wisdom, or just plain vodoo.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

I asked Redline which of their 2-cycle oils they would reccomend for premixing in the RX-8, and the answer I got was that their "racing" 2-cycle oil would burn the cleanest and give the best protection & power.

I noticed that this premix is listed as TC-W3 allowable, so I specifically asked them if one of their non-TC-W3 oils would be easier on the cat.

The answer I got was "A TC-W3 oil is an ashless oil and as such shouldn’t have any ZDDP/phosphorous that would specifically degrade catalytic converter performance."

Furthermore, they said that their watercraft oil wouldn't be any harder on the catalyst than any of Redline's other 2-cycle oils, but that they would still reccomend the racing oil for the best protection.

Now, whether or not this means that all TC-W3 oils are cat safe I can't say. But it would appear that Redline achieves the TC-W3 rating in a way that doesn't produce some kind of nastiness for the cat. But then they use very high quality ester based oils and perhaps that's why - a dino based TC-W3 may still be a no-no.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

BTW, I asked Royal Purple the same thing, and the answer I got was that their 2-cycle oil (which is TC-W3 listed) should be much easier on the cat than the 4-cycle oil being injected by the OMP.

xsnipersgox

just mail oder idemitsu, it's proven to be safe. takes a week or so, done.

zoom44

The lower the sulphur content the safer it is for the CAT. So look for one that is extremely low in sulphur

dynamho

I wonder how something can burn cleanly and still lubricate in an engine.
Sounds like magic.

8upbad

iTrader: (3)

Nice thread lift! You would be surprised at the types of grease and oils they have and what they can do. I use a dozen different types on any given aircraft. That being said, you would also be shocked at how bad they can corrode and/or damage a part it it's not the correct type.

dynamho

Oh snap! I've been doing that a lot lately.

8upbad

iTrader: (3)

That's ok. Just means you're searching and we all appreciate that.

AAaF

Totally understand, I haven't got my full understanding of it myself.

How I was expecting it to work was that when gas is burned, oil is not completely burned, leaving some oil- damp for lubrication and work as a thermal barrier to a certain degree . When you look at a 2- stroke MC, you can see oil dripping out of the exhaust, something that is in conflict with these clean- burning statements.

But rich premixing helps with my hot- start problems, though.

bse50

Valvoline has a lineup of cat safe 2 stroke oils, so do most of other brands. They're usually meant for scooters!

8upbad

iTrader: (3)

2-cycle oil is made to burn and not leave anything behind. 4-cycle oil is the exact oposite, it's used in a totally different way. It doesn't blend with the gas and go into the combustion chamber.

AAaF

Yes, I see many people say that, but if it burns completely, what is the point of adding oil?(I see the purpose for a 2- stroke engine, where the mix lubricates everything inside crank house before combustion) There is no lubrication if there's no oil? So that means that it is only lubrication from intake- port to a bit after the spark- plugs...?

See my point?

Must subline that I'm not trying to be difficult, just educated.