I did that last Summer. Same sample, divided evenly, sent to Blackstone and Oil Analyzers Inc. (oiltesting.com). The results were a little different, but not much IIRC. I don't know where the reports are, but I'll look for them this weekend and post them if I find them. (Might have been for my truck and not my 8.)

 

Sweet, that would be cool.

 

You there is another thread or two with oil analysis from Blackstone.

I worked with a guy in New York City that never changed his oil. Just trade the car in every 7 years.

He also never replaced plugs wires or coils unless the car stopped working.

He always got 100 to 150k miles.

So what does this show? An engine will last along time as long as she has oil period!

 

Yeah, I had a manager that commuted from central West Virginia to Rockville MD and back every day. He was at 83,000 miles in his Civic and hadn't bothered to change his oil yet (since brand new).


People like that scare me.


I get that certain cars and live through that abuse, that it is possible, etc...

But the lack of caring makes me shudder.

 

Certain engines will last with that type of abuse, others will not. My brother in law had an early 90's toyota SR22 pickup and he only changed the oil once in 7 years before it finally coughed up the timing chain.

 

Tming Chain has nothing to do with oil changes.

I remember the old days with an actual metal chain where it would last forever.

And yes, just think of that Used car you bought form a dealer. Runs fine now butt how often was the car maintained?

 

Most big engines still have internal metal timing chain to run camshaft.

Careless oil changing can indeed sludge top of head, valves, cams, chain, etc.

Sometimes after about 300,000 miles the chain can slip one or several gears over and made the camshaft timing chain out of time.

 

If you go on the M5 forums there's a lovely example of a car that didn't have the oil changed for 30k - there were big, gel-like sludge deposits absolutely covering the cylinder head.
Owner had fetched it into a dealer complaining that the dash had told him there was a VANOS fault and put it in limp home - the oil tubes to the vanos pump were blocked solid.

 

Sorry buddy but that statement is just wrong. It was a Toyota SR22 and the timing chain was black and when removed it was stiff as a board, you could hardly see where each link attached. You wouldn't have believed the damage it did to the plastic chain guide. When we dropped the pan there were pieces of plastic in it and no oil in it. The valve train was jet black and very scary. The chain ended up being the culprit according to the re builder but I Imagine the whole engine was just choked to death with sludge.

 

Not sure I'm following you here. Was your oil "analysis" showing greater fuel dilution based on a much longer OCI and with a different oil? I think it's pretty well known that Blacstone's fuel dilution numbers are only rough estimates based on flashpoint and not an actual analysis. I would ask them about this, if that's still the case, before you make drastic changes to your driving style based on a couple of data points that may not actually be real data.

 

Yes this was on a 2500 mile OCI with a full synthetic Mobil1 0W-40. The previous analysis was with the much loved GC 0W-30 and the fuel dilution was much less but the viscosity was was low as well and it only had 1500 miles on it. Scary to think what would have happened to the GC at the factory OCI recommendation. And I'm not making drastic changes to my driving style, I'm just going back to warming my car before leaving just like I always have. Not even sure if it will have any effect at all, just curious. We will see what the fuel dilution percentage is on the next OCI.

I'm gonna try Rotella 5W-40 this next time after I get another report to see whats up. I change my oil every 3,000 (usually less) so trying different oils shouldn't be a prob.

 

Warming up my car for 10 minutes every morning (and evening?) would be pretty drastic for me, but maybe that's just me.
My point was not that there's a problem with changing your choice of oil, just that the fuel dilution numbers are not real numbers, especially when your comparing estimates based on flashpoints of different oils.

 

What century was that?
yeah and the guy at Mazda told me to replace the oil filter every other oil change. Riiiiiight.


OK so how do you test oil for dirt? or sand? I want to know where to send my oil mobil1 0w40 sence I have been using a K&N filter.

 

Dirt == sand == silicon.

Any lab will test for silicon content as part of the standard test. Silicon is mostly what dirt is so it's a reasonable measure of how much "dirt" is getting into your oil. It can also come from silicon sealant, so if you've done any work involving that, it can be elevated for a while. But it shouldn't stay elevated.

Click on the "Gas/Diesel Report" link on this page and mouse-over Silicon.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

I think this is a worthwhile notice about silicon content:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/the-silicon-bugaboo.php

 

if you think you are getting dirt in the engine--you will see it in the oil.
I will never run a K&N again because of the lack of filtering i have seen in my car (filter on the inside of the engine bay) Hell i could see small holes in it! No matter how much oil i sprayed on the filter!
Overtime I am convinced it would promote faster engine wear. I rum the AEM now.

I just my second sample off on my new engine--will post results asap.
OD

 

Yes, I got rid of my K&N for that reason.

 

Ok so I took off my K&N filter and checked the intake where the maf is and its clean of gridd sand or dirt. Just had a really light oil like film on it. Black stuff. But I seen this on the TB before. I clean it about once a year. Even then thats over kill cuz its so damn clean. Anyway, where do I send my oil to get tested again? thanks.
With the stock intake box and filter I would get oil over flow and see oil on my filter. Not anymore with this set up.

 

Request a test kit.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

Oil on the filter has nothing to do with your setup and everything to do with over filling the oil feed neck and having oil go down the hose into your TB, accordion tube and air filter. The less oil you over fill, the less oil gets in.

 

This is my second RX-8 and have always put 4.25 to 5 liters in my RX-8's redline them and had oil on my intake filters. Yeah yeah I know less is more but with the same ammount of oil and this K&N v2 intake filter I have no engine oil on the K&N filter.

 

we have back pressure from blow by that will send oil to the intake tube. some have more than others.
oD

 

Just curious why you put in so much Oil in your RX-8..

I put in 4.2 (with New Oil Filter) 4.0 without and it is just Over the full mark.(S2)
S1 4.0 with Filter, 3.8 without.

5 litres is WAY too much oil for either S1 or S2, unless you have a modified oil system?

 

Or if you use a procedure to drain more. Some people use a jacking method and some people use a pump..... that reads weird

 

I just bounce it up and down a little.

 

Fresh Eneos is in the engine and the Tranny as of this morning. My car is happy again!