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Old 05-01-2018, 01:50 PM   #901  
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Stupid question, but do you have to send the oil all the way to the US to get the analysis?
No, there are other labs. There is one in Montreal, but it's super inconvenient for me to get to during working hours. Easier to drop things in the mail. I imagine Alberta and BC would have a whole bunch given the amount of heavy machinery deployed there.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:07 PM   #902  
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Second take, this time with 2 AutoX sessions on the oil.

Wear looks fine, but the viscosity additive seems to be wearing out a bit. IIRC this is an issue with conventional oil. Maybe I should change the oil a bit sooner with AutoX events, 2500 miles/4000 km vs 3000 miles/5000 km. Any tips?


Same oil as always, Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional in yellow bottles.

Last edited by UnknownJinX; 08-08-2018 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:47 PM   #903  
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^ Eh. You kind of need to tell us what kind of oil it is for this to be meaningful.
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Old 08-08-2018, 09:31 PM   #904  
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Oh sorry, it's 5W-20 Pennzoil conventional oil. Comes in these yellow bottles.

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Old 08-09-2018, 07:32 AM   #905  
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I had some Castrol GTX 5W20 samples several pages back in this thread for comparison, but the pictures have disappeared for some reason. I'll try to remember to re-post tonight. I had track days on my oil, and it came back within spec. Even so, I started using Mobil 1 0W40--at least in the summer.

I feel like I should have mine tested again, but it will have to wait, as I currently have dealership mystery oil mixed ~50/50 with the aforementioned Mobil 1, plus an unknown quantity of Valvoline Synpower 5W30 top-off oil. That witch's brew is probably not worth testing. It does show my commitment to the idea that what kind of oil does not much matter, but the frequency of change does. I'm still changing the oil at 3,000 miles and changing the filter at 6,000 miles.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:26 AM   #906  
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Question

I see nothing wrong with oil or engine. The lab seems to think it's straight sae 20, and it does seem thicker than any multi grade 5w20.
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:13 PM   #907  
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I had some Castrol GTX 5W20 samples several pages back in this thread for comparison, but the pictures have disappeared for some reason. I'll try to remember to re-post tonight. I had track days on my oil, and it came back within spec. Even so, I started using Mobil 1 0W40--at least in the summer.

I feel like I should have mine tested again, but it will have to wait, as I currently have dealership mystery oil mixed ~50/50 with the aforementioned Mobil 1, plus an unknown quantity of Valvoline Synpower 5W30 top-off oil. That witch's brew is probably not worth testing. It does show my commitment to the idea that what kind of oil does not much matter, but the frequency of change does. I'm still changing the oil at 3,000 miles and changing the filter at 6,000 miles.
Thanks a lot Steve!

I do change the filter with the oil every change. They are only $10 a pop at the dealer. Maybe I should do it every other change as well, but I thought 6000 miles might be a wee bit too long. Even with the Owner's Manual's overly long interval, they say the oil should be changed with the filter every 5000 miles.

It's interesting to see the results because I have seen that couple of years back, people were bashing on 5W-20 a lot, saying it's too thin. That said, if I live in the Texas/Cali summer, I will probably use 5W-30 as well.

Also, your dealer is okay with filling up synthetic and 5W-30? Lots of dealers aren't. Last time I checked with my dealer, they still stand by 'no synthetic', even though people are fine using it.

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I see nothing wrong with oil or engine. The lab seems to think it's straight sae 20, and it does seem thicker than any multi grade 5w20.
Wear and additives are completely fine.

I looked up the specs for the Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional and it seems that the oil has indeed got thicker than it's supposed to be at 40 C. Could just be the viscosity control additive wearing out.
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:19 PM   #908  
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But oil gets thinner as it ages. The additives are long chains that give it viscosity, and they get chewed up by oxidation and heat stress. I would question what oil was actually in there. Perhaps your previous fill was a heavier oil and a bunch of it remained during the last change?
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:44 PM   #909  
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I do my own oil changes and I have always poured in 5W-20.
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Old 08-09-2018, 03:47 PM   #910  
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Thanks a lot Steve!

I do change the filter with the oil every change. They are only $10 a pop at the dealer. Maybe I should do it every other change as well, but I thought 6000 miles might be a wee bit too long. Even with the Owner's Manual's overly long interval, they say the oil should be changed with the filter every 5000 miles.

It's interesting to see the results because I have seen that couple of years back, people were bashing on 5W-20 a lot, saying it's too thin. That said, if I live in the Texas/Cali summer, I will probably use 5W-30 as well.

Also, your dealer is okay with filling up synthetic and 5W-30? Lots of dealers aren't. Last time I checked with my dealer, they still stand by 'no synthetic', even though people are fine using it.



Wear and additives are completely fine.

I looked up the specs for the Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional and it seems that the oil has indeed got thicker than it's supposed to be at 40 C. Could just be the viscosity control additive wearing out.
I may have left out an important detail or three...

My oil change regimen is as follows: I take it to the dealer every 6000 miles for an oil and filter change. They use who-knows-what bulk oil, although they claim it is Castrol GTX 5W20 in the winter or 5W30 in the summer.. From there, I will drive the car 3,000 miles OR take it to the track 1 time. Then, I drain and fill with Mobil 1 0W40. So, at any given time, my car has roughly 2.5W30 semi-synthetic in the sump, since we are able to drain ~half the oil.

I take it to the dealer for 2 reasons: 1. Maintain the paper trail, as my engine is still under warranty; and 2. I can't beat their $20 or $25 price with coupon by doing it myself with an OE filter and any given oil. When I do my own drain and fill, I go to MyMazda.com to enter a service record to document it. Either way, I am technically within Mazda's recommended interval of 7,500 miles, so warranty work should not be a problem if needed.

As for how I ended up with the witch's brew I have in there now, consider 1 dealer change, 1 of my changes, and make-up oil from what I have on hand for my truck. BTW, Valvoline Synpower must be pretty good stuff. It is all I have ever used in my 2008 Tacoma, and the truck just turned over 235,000 miles with plenty of towing and other hard use, and the engine is still purring along like new.

Here is that Castrol GTX 5W20 report with a track day on it, but only 1,000 miles. This is back when I was using Castrol GTX 5W20 myself, and the dealer claimed to be using the same. At that time, I did a drain and fill with Castrol GTX 5W20 after every track day.



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Old 08-09-2018, 04:08 PM   #911  
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Right, your warranty is based on the Schedule 1(non-severe), while we Canadians follow Schedule 2(severe). I don't have a warranty anymore anyway.

My dealer said they use Shell oil. Not that it matters since I have done oil changes myself since I purchased the car.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:27 AM   #912  
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Thanks a lot Steve!

I do change the filter with the oil every change. They are only $10 a pop at the dealer. Maybe I should do it every other change as well, but I thought 6000 miles might be a wee bit too long. Even with the Owner's Manual's overly long interval, they say the oil should be changed with the filter every 5000 miles.

It's interesting to see the results because I have seen that couple of years back, people were bashing on 5W-20 a lot, saying it's too thin. That said, if I live in the Texas/Cali summer, I will probably use 5W-30 as well.

Also, your dealer is okay with filling up synthetic and 5W-30? Lots of dealers aren't. Last time I checked with my dealer, they still stand by 'no synthetic', even though people are fine using it.



Wear and additives are completely fine.

I looked up the specs for the Pennzoil 5W-20 conventional and it seems that the oil has indeed got thicker than it's supposed to be at 40 C. Could just be the viscosity control additive wearing out.
These kind of multigrades start with very thin like 5 Sae and put vi improvers which are like saggy long springs to keep from thinning when hot. They can get chewed up which would take oil thinner. Only way to get thicker is oxidation of oil, too long used or hot.

Your conventional really specs at Sae 20 straight weight which is what analizer said.

What is that additive control measure?

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Old 08-10-2018, 12:04 PM   #913  
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I'd be curious to see how a broken-in engine UOA compares with 0w20 synth and 0w40 synth (with 2 stroke for oil injection via SOHN). I may send some samples off after I get 10,000mi on my new motor. I'm still trying to decide which I'll run, though I'm leaning toward 0w40 to start.

There is a lot of old information out there on oils that may not be relevant anymore and it is hard to separate it from what is current and trusted knowledge from the industry. 0w20 worked brilliantly on my Sky-G car (Miata), and I run 5w30 on my other vehicles without any fuss (including an LS* V8). Seems Mazda's Idemitsu-derived 0w20 synth (with moly) has tested well in UOA on high-compression/DI piston engines, as has their bulk dealer oil, Castrol GTX Professional 0w20 synth (with moly). I've used both and noticed no difference between them, both seemed to manage 5k miles of hard driving without a fuss.

Last edited by furansu; 08-10-2018 at 12:07 PM.
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