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Ah, so would those be found in the oil right out of the jug? Or is this something that's found in the gasoline?
Just for S&G's, I sent off a sample of my transmission fluid too, which was Redline MT-90. After that drain, I put in Enos 75W-90. I just want to see if there'd be some major difference between the two.
That report is very similar to the reports I have obtained for my RX-8 and Miata running MT-90 at the track. I asked Redline about the report of it being a little thin for a 90W, and the rep told me it is made to be a little thin on purpose to improve the shifting feel at low temperatures and at very high temperatures. I don't quite understand how that works, but the stuff lubricates well and prevents wear on an above average basis, so I'm fine with it.
Before anyone worries about it being "too thin" for a 90W, the ZF transmissions in BMWs do best on Redline MTLV, which is an even thinner formulation than MTL (80W), including for regular track use. If you track a BMW, and 3rd gear gets notchy after about 20 minutes of abuse, switch to D4 ATF, and, if that doesn't solve it, switch to MTLV. I am currently running D4, and 3rd is still notchy. MTLV incoming.
Ah, so would those be found in the oil right out of the jug? Or is this something that's found in the gasoline?
Just for S&G's, I sent off a sample of my transmission fluid too, which was Redline MT-90. After that drain, I put in Enos 75W-90. I just want to see if there'd be some major difference between the two.
Yeah, some oils have Titanium listed on the bottle as a selling point. Mobil 1 doesn't have it and seems great oil.
Most oils have magnesium. Nearly all oils are getting the great additives packages, but I p[refer the 0w40's made from natural gas, since less bad stuff in the crude.
It's talked about a lot that one shouldn't put 75w90 GL-5 in transmission since it eats the soft synchros. I'd go back to the MT-90 you had. 75w90 is for differential.
It's talked about a lot that one shouldn't put 75w90 GL-5 in transmission since it eats the soft synchros. I'd go back to the MT-90 you had. 75w90 is for differential.
I don't want to spread rumors, but I believe Charles at BHR reported running the Eneos gear oil in the trans with long-term success, despite its GL-5 rating.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-27-2019 at 09:32 AM.
I don't want to spread rumors, but I believe Charles at BHR reported running the Eneos gear oil in the trans with long-term success, despite its GL-5 rating.
That's where I got the brand name from. Cold starts on cold days with Redline made the synchros notchy, and it required some force to mesh them in first and second gear. I'm finding that's not so much the case with the Enos. But that could just be coincidence or some other factor too. And who knows, it could be eating the transmission alive, but that's what I wanted to find out. Got the baseline Redline numbers, and in a few months (probably springtime), I'll send off an Enos sample, get the numbers, and we can compare. At least there will be some kind of quantitative measuring, instead of the usual "feels better" or "I read you shouldn't do that" (which I'm guilty as charged on both accounts).
Yeah, that argument is about as old as the forum and I got tired of trying to convince people of the same truth. Mention oil and every roach crawls out of the cracks with an expert opinion
one of the premier Mazda trans builders recommends the Motorcraft oil, but everybody has to be different I suppose because some people on here swear against it
one of the premier Mazda trans builders recommends the Motorcraft oil, but everybody has to be different I suppose because some people on here swear against it
It's not that I want to be different, it's that I actually had bad experience with the Motorcraft synthetic fluid.
I used it for a year in my S2 trans with mostly daily driving and occasional AutoX(2 or 3 events on the fluid). Towards the end of the year, I ground my 2nd gear a few times even with the clutch all the way in. Drained the fluid, and it was very dark with a burnt smell. Used some Motul Gear 300 and never ground my 2nd again, and the trans feels less notchy as well.
So if anyone asks me, well that's my experience, and I will not recommend the fluid. If it can't even withstand daily driving and some AutoX, tracking is gonna hurt. A lot.
FWIW, a few RX-7 guys I talked to recommended Motul. Even a Ford guy was recommending Motul over Motorcraft(which is OEM for them). It's a YMMV for sure, but a bad experience is a bad experience.
I switched from OEM factory fill to Redline MT90 (75W90 GL-4) and other than a small difference in cold weather - no issues for the last 14700 miles or ~ 2 years since I made the change. I think that if you use what the manufacturer asks for - GL-4 you are fine. I love oil threads. How about you?
The only issue with high zinc oils is that it fouls the catalyst sites sooner - leading to a faster cat failure that may lead to throwing CEL codes relative to exhaust and O2 reads.
This was Castrol GTX 20w-50 again, on this run there was more hard running than on any of my other samples,(lots of running 6-8k rpm for 15-20 minutes at a time, at various throttle openings, to test some ideas.) and I changed to Amsoil Interceptor about 5-6000 miles before for the OMP oil and premix. Sorry about the orientation, maybe the mods can fix it, I can't find the button.
This was Castrol GTX 20w-50 again, on this run there was more hard running than on any of my other samples,(lots of running 6-8k rpm for 15-20 minutes at a time, at various throttle openings, to test some ideas.) and I changed to Amsoil Interceptor about 5-6000 miles before for the OMP oil and premix. Sorry about the orientation, maybe the mods can fix it, I can't find the button.
Not bad. You plan on just going for a, per year schedule? Seems like 4-5k is reasonable... if your goal is to use up every ounce of life outta that $25 jug of oil.
I use the gtx 20w50 because it is good, and cheap. I usually change oil at no more than 3k in this engine, so $18 for 5 quarts at Walmart is OK with me. I believe the oil in the sump is fairly heavily diluted with 2 stroke oil blow by by that point.(controversial, but I consistently see the oil level rise over the OCI, and the oil gets hot enough to evap any liquid fuel residue) I went to 3600 miles this time for consistency with the other test. I think this is a good oil for this engine and the way I use it.
Some oil change fun, from BITOG.
20k interval on rx8. Interesting approach, going for no changes at all.
"This I had analysed to get a feeling if I would discard oil changes with the car, not for judging performance of an individual oil obviously. (Ro 80 rotaries in the end were said to not require them any longer it seems and although the Renesis' continuous exchange rate should be about half as high, with the more modern oils that's still what I'm trying.) "
The no-oilchange policy of NSU was one reason for the bad reputation of the RO-80. The oil was also shared with the transmition converter. People forgot the add oil and the converter extended because of the high revs, produced chips while coliding and the chips than entered the oil system of the engine.
Still doesn't mean it's a good idea. Oil's relatively cheap, changes are easy. Engines are expensive and hard to change.
I would be HIGHLY suspicious of anything from that guy. I remember him on the old RX-7 lists back in the day, he was sort of the equivalent of a wild hermit/crank and did things his own way. If you didn't like it, you're an idiot. Most of his knowledge is from his own little bubble as well. I would put very little faith in his old web page.
Rotaries get a lot of gas dilution in oil over time, I think the 3k oil change is a great place to be at. Especially with bearing problems in the Renesis, good healthy oil is a good thing to have. Oil dilution lowers the effective viscosity. Hell, oil is cheap and easy to change, just do oil and filter at 3k and move on to something else. There's enough crap to worry about on these cars, don't get too exotic with over thinking oil changes.
This was a sample just taken, where I, uh, had a fight with the rev limiter a few times. I will post later how it happened, but I will say my exuberance got the best of me while racing my son in his 2006 Mustang GT. It was fun though. The previous sample had some tin, but much less. I ran it hard in that sample, but kept it below redline for the most part. I think this is what your oil looks like if you overrev this engine.
I believe the higher tin was from a few rather severe over-rev events, and the e-shaft smudged the Babbitt coating in the main bearings, probably from shaft flex. I will take another sample to test the idea that this was a temporary hit, using more, umm, competent driving processes.
Also, the formulation of this oil changed, with less calcium and more magnesium. What do you guys think?
11-26-2019, 07:48 AM
