Used Oil Analysis - Post Them Here
#1001
Bearing wear normally shows up as lead at first and then copper when they fail. If all you did was hit the limiter a couple of times it probably didn't have much of an effect. Over revving on downshift is more dangerous as then it can go higher than the factory limit.
If you still have the filter and are worried about it you could try cutting it open. I've just started doing that and the results are somewhat enlightening.
#1002
77 cylinders, 4 rotors...
Although the amount went up, the actual quantity is still low so I wouldn't worry about it too much at this point. Iron, copper and lead are all low which is good.
Bearing wear normally shows up as lead at first and then copper when they fail. If all you did was hit the limiter a couple of times it probably didn't have much of an effect. Over revving on downshift is more dangerous as then it can go higher than the factory limit.
If you still have the filter and are worried about it you could try cutting it open. I've just started doing that and the results are somewhat enlightening.
Bearing wear normally shows up as lead at first and then copper when they fail. If all you did was hit the limiter a couple of times it probably didn't have much of an effect. Over revving on downshift is more dangerous as then it can go higher than the factory limit.
If you still have the filter and are worried about it you could try cutting it open. I've just started doing that and the results are somewhat enlightening.
Last edited by kevink0000; 01-31-2021 at 10:49 AM.
#1003
I changed the oil the other day before the new track season and decided to do all analysis just to see how the engine is doing. All looks good except a bit elevated chrome...
Last edited by Nadrealista; 03-10-2021 at 01:53 PM.
#1008
77 cylinders, 4 rotors...
More info needed. But, yes, in my opinion that is a lot of wear metal for the mileage. 160ppm Fe at 5000km/3000 miles equivalent rate would be very concerning. The chrome is high too. How long was the last oil change interval before this one? Use patterns? Also, if the car has sat for a time , wear metals can show up high in the oil due to corrosion. That is what this looks like to me, actually. More backstory please.
#1009
Registered
Sure.
I bought the car which was sitting for 5 years (most probably no oil changes made).
The previous owner made an oil change after these 5 years to be able to move it and put it on sale.
The oil stayed in the car for 2.5 k km.
When I bought it, I changed the oil once more, then drove it for 485 km and changed it again. That's when I took the sample. It's from the first oil change I made to the car.
So it's now been two oil changes since it was sitting. I don't know if that's enough though as the car holds 7 lt of oil, not 4 that's coming out in every change.
Motor looks strong, compression at 7.1 and 7.2 (normalized of course) at the moment. No issues.
The car is being driven relatively hard. I always wait for it to be in temp though. Never redlined it while cold.
I didn't catch the 5k km equivalent part. Where did you get that number?
Thanks!
I bought the car which was sitting for 5 years (most probably no oil changes made).
The previous owner made an oil change after these 5 years to be able to move it and put it on sale.
The oil stayed in the car for 2.5 k km.
When I bought it, I changed the oil once more, then drove it for 485 km and changed it again. That's when I took the sample. It's from the first oil change I made to the car.
So it's now been two oil changes since it was sitting. I don't know if that's enough though as the car holds 7 lt of oil, not 4 that's coming out in every change.
Motor looks strong, compression at 7.1 and 7.2 (normalized of course) at the moment. No issues.
The car is being driven relatively hard. I always wait for it to be in temp though. Never redlined it while cold.
I didn't catch the 5k km equivalent part. Where did you get that number?
Thanks!
Last edited by G47; 07-03-2021 at 10:09 AM.
#1012
77 cylinders, 4 rotors...
Sure.
I bought the car which was sitting for 5 years (most probably no oil changes made).
The previous owner made an oil change after these 5 years to be able to move it and put it on sale.
The oil stayed in the car for 2.5 k km.
When I bought it, I changed the oil once more, then drove it for 485 km and changed it again. That's when I took the sample. It's from the first oil change I made to the car.
So it's now been two oil changes since it was sitting. I don't know if that's enough though as the car holds 7 lt of oil, not 4 that's coming out in every change.
Motor looks strong, compression at 7.1 and 7.2 (normalized of course) at the moment. No issues.
The car is being driven relatively hard. I always wait for it to be in temp though. Never redlined it while cold.
I didn't catch the 5k km equivalent part. Where did you get that number?
Thanks!
I bought the car which was sitting for 5 years (most probably no oil changes made).
The previous owner made an oil change after these 5 years to be able to move it and put it on sale.
The oil stayed in the car for 2.5 k km.
When I bought it, I changed the oil once more, then drove it for 485 km and changed it again. That's when I took the sample. It's from the first oil change I made to the car.
So it's now been two oil changes since it was sitting. I don't know if that's enough though as the car holds 7 lt of oil, not 4 that's coming out in every change.
Motor looks strong, compression at 7.1 and 7.2 (normalized of course) at the moment. No issues.
The car is being driven relatively hard. I always wait for it to be in temp though. Never redlined it while cold.
I didn't catch the 5k km equivalent part. Where did you get that number?
Thanks!
I think that number will continue to go down since the most likely reason for that number is the fact that the car sat, probably in a high humidity/salt air environment. If its corrosion, its not nearly as bad as it would be if that was a genuine wear number in my opinion.
#1013
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
strong numbers @ 250 rpm are 8.1+
minimum acceptable (doesn’t mean it won’t run, just the make/break acceptable minimal performance value by the manufacturer that would rather not replace an engine under warranty) is about 6.8 @ 250 rpm or so
probably lucky if it’s breaking 170 whp …
.
minimum acceptable (doesn’t mean it won’t run, just the make/break acceptable minimal performance value by the manufacturer that would rather not replace an engine under warranty) is about 6.8 @ 250 rpm or so
probably lucky if it’s breaking 170 whp …
.
#1014
Registered
The 5k equivalent is just my arbitrary effort to extrapolate that iron number over a normal 5k interval, as iron usually correlates well to oil mileage. Nothing scientific about it, just helps understand the number better.
I think that number will continue to go down since the most likely reason for that number is the fact that the car sat, probably in a high humidity/salt air environment. If its corrosion, its not nearly as bad as it would be if that was a genuine wear number in my opinion.
I think that number will continue to go down since the most likely reason for that number is the fact that the car sat, probably in a high humidity/salt air environment. If its corrosion, its not nearly as bad as it would be if that was a genuine wear number in my opinion.
#1015
I thought I had a really bad fuel dilution problem but I'm thinking maybe I'm getting more premix than fuel into the sump somehow based on this report.
Anyone have a thought as to where the tin might be coming from without the other common wear metals?
Anyone have a thought as to where the tin might be coming from without the other common wear metals?
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