Used Oil Analysis - Post Them Here
#426
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iTrader: (46)
Well......I have been having cold idle issues and misfires and a coil test showed my BHR coils misfiring but thsi pretty much confirms it was not the coils. I will pressure test tonight to confirm. 30,000 mile Mazda reman, meticulously maintained, SOHN, premix, BHR ignition, no cat, etc.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5931654852/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5931654852/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-12-2011 at 04:29 PM.
#427
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
Ouch. Sorry to see that. Mazda remans are know for coolant seal problems, no?
That'll teach you to meticulously maintain it rather than flogging the snot out of it! (Sorry, gallows humor.)
That'll teach you to meticulously maintain it rather than flogging the snot out of it! (Sorry, gallows humor.)
#428
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I could have saved some cash by not maintaining it so well Oh well, such is the life of a rotary enthusiast I guess.
#429
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
Not really. I just change the (ordinary dino juice) oil every 3-or-so thousand miles, plugs and air filter every so often, and flog the living **** out of mine. I've had several different rotaries over 100k miles including my Spec RX-7 race car and haven't killed an engine yet. Had an FB over 225k. The '8 only has about 45k, but I beat it mercilessly so I expect it will go over 100k miles. I do pay very, very close attention to water temp.
A Redline A Day Keeps The Mechanic Away.
Transmission? Not so much... ...Until I put in the 2009.
A Redline A Day Keeps The Mechanic Away.
Transmission? Not so much... ...Until I put in the 2009.
#430
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
not that i'm expecting anything bad (I'll be really annoyed if I get a similar lovegram) but I got my last batch of Mobil 1 10w30 shipped off to Amsoil for analysis tonight.
I'll post my results once I get them back, hopefully by the end of the week.
I'll post my results once I get them back, hopefully by the end of the week.
#431
9krpmrx8,
Yeah,As Blackstone says : you should have that .......looked at since you caught in the early stages.
Maybe chemo?
When my 73 RX3 did this on the original engine at 74k miles, I put in a can of block seal a few times to try to glue it, but Mazda gave me a new engine that was pretty good.
I'm surprised Blackstone didn't tell you hurry up and put the head gasket in!
Yeah,As Blackstone says : you should have that .......looked at since you caught in the early stages.
Maybe chemo?
When my 73 RX3 did this on the original engine at 74k miles, I put in a can of block seal a few times to try to glue it, but Mazda gave me a new engine that was pretty good.
I'm surprised Blackstone didn't tell you hurry up and put the head gasket in!
#432
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Not really. I just change the (ordinary dino juice) oil every 3-or-so thousand miles, plugs and air filter every so often, and flog the living **** out of mine. I've had several different rotaries over 100k miles including my Spec RX-7 race car and haven't killed an engine yet. Had an FB over 225k. The '8 only has about 45k, but I beat it mercilessly so I expect it will go over 100k miles. I do pay very, very close attention to water temp.
A Redline A Day Keeps The Mechanic Away.
Transmission? Not so much... ...Until I put in the 2009.
A Redline A Day Keeps The Mechanic Away.
Transmission? Not so much... ...Until I put in the 2009.
But my tranny has 126,000 hard miles on it with just regular Mazda fluid changes. Redline a day is a given and I always warmed the car up before driving anywhere and watched oil temps like a hawk.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-12-2011 at 11:32 PM.
#433
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9krpmrx8,
Yeah,As Blackstone says : you should have that .......looked at since you caught in the early stages.
Maybe chemo?
When my 73 RX3 did this on the original engine at 74k miles, I put in a can of block seal a few times to try to glue it, but Mazda gave me a new engine that was pretty good.
I'm surprised Blackstone didn't tell you hurry up and put the head gasket in!
Yeah,As Blackstone says : you should have that .......looked at since you caught in the early stages.
Maybe chemo?
When my 73 RX3 did this on the original engine at 74k miles, I put in a can of block seal a few times to try to glue it, but Mazda gave me a new engine that was pretty good.
I'm surprised Blackstone didn't tell you hurry up and put the head gasket in!
Yeah my dad asked if there was a way to change the gaskets I pressurized the coolant system and removed the L2 plug and the coolant just dribbled out of the spark plug hole so it's done but catching it early may have saved some reusable hard parts.
#434
Right column is dealer fill (Valvoline 5w30 Im told) left column in Rotella T Triple Protection 10w30 (the mineral not the T5 synthetic blend) Dealer fill went in at 638 miles April 19th and Rotella T 10w30 went in May 7th and 2500 miles. This sample was pulled from the drain hole July 10th. This is a 2010 RX8 GT manual transmission purchased new by me. Mileage on the car is 5000, all compenents.
Iron 16 11
Copp 5 1
Lead 2 2
Chrom 3 4
Alum 3 1
Calcu 1682 2044
Magn 14 10
Zinc 906 1285
Phos 777 986
Bariu 8 0
Moly 381 63
Silico 40 12
Sodi 73 63
Boron 76 0
Visc 40C 38.7 62.6
Vis 100C 7.7 10.3
TAN 1.31 1.41
Flash 340 280 (Closed cup method so this would be quite a bit higher done open cup such as BStone's method)
OXID 14 21
NIT 6 6
KF 1041 786 (Used to determine the water concentration of the base stocks, thus indicating synthetic or mineral. Both are in the range of the minreal oils.)
TBN 5.0 6.9
Fuel 1.12% 1.64% (actual fuel test rather than BStone's method of calculating based upon the flash point. BStone's method would have shown less than 1% likely .5%)
Soot 0 0 (no carbon in oil or evidence of deposit potential. The dispersents of the both oils as well as my fuel additive are allowing the filter to work.)
Glycol 0 0
Visc Ind 165 153
Sulfate By Product 19 23
MPG was down 20% with the Rotella from 22-23 to 20.X.
Iron 16 11
Copp 5 1
Lead 2 2
Chrom 3 4
Alum 3 1
Calcu 1682 2044
Magn 14 10
Zinc 906 1285
Phos 777 986
Bariu 8 0
Moly 381 63
Silico 40 12
Sodi 73 63
Boron 76 0
Visc 40C 38.7 62.6
Vis 100C 7.7 10.3
TAN 1.31 1.41
Flash 340 280 (Closed cup method so this would be quite a bit higher done open cup such as BStone's method)
OXID 14 21
NIT 6 6
KF 1041 786 (Used to determine the water concentration of the base stocks, thus indicating synthetic or mineral. Both are in the range of the minreal oils.)
TBN 5.0 6.9
Fuel 1.12% 1.64% (actual fuel test rather than BStone's method of calculating based upon the flash point. BStone's method would have shown less than 1% likely .5%)
Soot 0 0 (no carbon in oil or evidence of deposit potential. The dispersents of the both oils as well as my fuel additive are allowing the filter to work.)
Glycol 0 0
Visc Ind 165 153
Sulfate By Product 19 23
MPG was down 20% with the Rotella from 22-23 to 20.X.
#436
Normally its leaning to the bad side, but looking at the Ox and Nit among other things the professional guidence is that the oil could go as far as 4K miles under current operating conditions. Im told that according to the data base my engine is wearing less and appears to be better sealed than most. Im also being recommended RLI for optimal lubrication benefits.
#437
#1 If you drove the car properly during that period, yes, you would burn 20% less before you can put the hammer down after breakin as you enjoy your new toy.
#2 Very few people can measure gas mileage close enough to see the 2-3 % difference oil companies claim for thinner oil.
#2 Very few people can measure gas mileage close enough to see the 2-3 % difference oil companies claim for thinner oil.
#438
Normally its leaning to the bad side, but looking at the Ox and Nit among other things the professional guidence is that the oil could go as far as 4K miles under current operating conditions. Im told that according to the data base my engine is wearing less and appears to be better sealed than most. Im also being recommended RLI for optimal lubrication benefits.
If two engines had a compression test, you might be able to rate.
Did you do that compression test, yet?
Also, those oil tests are almost meaningless to see which oil wears better, much less which engine wears better.
At this new stage on your engine that uoa was to check for fuel and antifreeze.
The sample might have more to compare at 15-20k miles when most engines stabilize, and quit showing high silicon.
#439
Nobody knows which engine has better seals until they fail later.
If two engines had a compression test, you might be able to rate.
Did you do that compression test, yet?
Also, those oil tests are almost meaningless to see which oil wears better, much less which engine wears better.
At this new stage on your engine that uoa was to check for fuel and antifreeze.
The sample might have more to compare at 15-20k miles when most engines stabilize, and quit showing high silicon.
If two engines had a compression test, you might be able to rate.
Did you do that compression test, yet?
Also, those oil tests are almost meaningless to see which oil wears better, much less which engine wears better.
At this new stage on your engine that uoa was to check for fuel and antifreeze.
The sample might have more to compare at 15-20k miles when most engines stabilize, and quit showing high silicon.
#440
#1 If you drove the car properly during that period, yes, you would burn 20% less before you can put the hammer down after breakin as you enjoy your new toy.
#2 Very few people can measure gas mileage close enough to see the 2-3 % difference oil companies claim for thinner oil.
#2 Very few people can measure gas mileage close enough to see the 2-3 % difference oil companies claim for thinner oil.
#2 Perhaps again, but 20% would none the less be observable as it was. 2%-3% is also noticable with sufficient trending which I have.
#441
Incorrect. The sealing can be reasonably guestimated with fuel dilution, soot, and sulphated by product, same as ring seal in an Otto application. Additionally, this UOA being at this mileage shows how it is wearing in and where it is in that process. Will also help provide guidence as to any gross manufacturing defects.
So I didn't catch your logic.
#443
9krpmrx8
If you haven't pulled your engine yet I suggest you run a bottle of Bar's leaks in your coolant. I had a coolant leak on my daily beater and this stuff worked great. It is worth a shot.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
If you haven't pulled your engine yet I suggest you run a bottle of Bar's leaks in your coolant. I had a coolant leak on my daily beater and this stuff worked great. It is worth a shot.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
#444
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
9krpmrx8
If you haven't pulled your engine yet I suggest you run a bottle of Bar's leaks in your coolant. I had a coolant leak on my daily beater and this stuff worked great. It is worth a shot.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
If you haven't pulled your engine yet I suggest you run a bottle of Bar's leaks in your coolant. I had a coolant leak on my daily beater and this stuff worked great. It is worth a shot.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
Thanks for the recommendation but that stuff is crap and does more damage than good. If I had a beater maybe, but I am getting new built motor, and with forced induction I am not taking any risks on a patched together engine.
#445
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Where are you getting the new motor from? Just interested in case I ever need one....
#446
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www.pineappleracing.com. Rob seemed to be the most knowledgeable and took the time to out what and why he does certain things during a rebuild. and of course I am not getting a standard rebuild.
#447
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After about 3000km i´ve got folowing results(on German language):
1.pdf is new oil
2.pdf used oil after 3000 km
It is Motul 300V Power 5W-30,synthetic,esterbased...
The car has now about 37000km on tacho.
any suggestions?
Thx
1.pdf is new oil
2.pdf used oil after 3000 km
It is Motul 300V Power 5W-30,synthetic,esterbased...
The car has now about 37000km on tacho.
any suggestions?
Thx
#448
Nature vs. Nurture
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% fuel is the biggest problem I see with keeping oil in good condition in the RX-8. I would buy a cheaper oil and change it often. and continue to periodically measure the wear.
Last edited by ganseg; 08-01-2011 at 06:24 PM.