Used Oil Analysis - Post Them Here
#401
For commentary from Penzoil on VII's (viscosity modifiers) please see http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/in...d=72&Itemid=80.
31. I have a Direct Injection engine and it is highly suspected that using oil with a NOACK rating over 10% is not good for DI engines. Since Pennzoil Ultra™ is over 10% would Pennzoil® guarantee no deposits to form on the valves of DI engines?
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines.
Unfortunately, offering a guarantee against deposits would be tough since so many other variables could impact the outcome.
If these are depositing on DI app valves they will deposit in the rotary as oil is consumed.
For extensive discussion regarding the impact of SAPS (ash) when oil containing them is consumed please see http://herkules.oulu.fi/isbn9514269543/html/x546.html.
Further support to warn against using such oils in the rotary can be had through the diesel manufacturers requiring a reduction in these additives as well as the gasoline engine manufacturers requiring a reduction in SAPS to protect the CAT. Deposits are deposits and will collect if provided the home to collect on.
31. I have a Direct Injection engine and it is highly suspected that using oil with a NOACK rating over 10% is not good for DI engines. Since Pennzoil Ultra™ is over 10% would Pennzoil® guarantee no deposits to form on the valves of DI engines?
Oil volatility is not a significant factor for inlet valve deposits in a direct injection gasoline engine. The significant factor is viscosity modifier type and concentration, so using fully synthetic narrow span viscosity grades such as 5W-20 is beneficial. In North America, there is no specification calling for NOACK of less than 10%. The most important thing for DI engines is engine design, to better prevent deposits on ITV’s (In Take Valves), since there is no fuel wash as in PFI (Port Fuel Injection) engines.
Unfortunately, offering a guarantee against deposits would be tough since so many other variables could impact the outcome.
If these are depositing on DI app valves they will deposit in the rotary as oil is consumed.
For extensive discussion regarding the impact of SAPS (ash) when oil containing them is consumed please see http://herkules.oulu.fi/isbn9514269543/html/x546.html.
Further support to warn against using such oils in the rotary can be had through the diesel manufacturers requiring a reduction in these additives as well as the gasoline engine manufacturers requiring a reduction in SAPS to protect the CAT. Deposits are deposits and will collect if provided the home to collect on.
there is one big difference between DI and rotary..rotary does get fuel spray all over the rotors, housing and intake ports..and there are no valves :-)
fuel system cleaners can also help to minimize deposits.
and again even if you do get deposits that's what the seafoam is for..it takes only an hour to do the seafoam treatment..
#403
That actually isnt true. There was a post by Buster on BITOG of a presentation done by M1 in 2006 lifting the use of Group III versus PAO due to superior availability in addition to near PAO technical features. Most beleive that they still use some PAO and possibly Esters especially in the 0w40 blend. They also use a good bit of AN from what Ive read.
I'm running M1 0w40 in my Dodge 4.7l with good results at 10k mile changes (specs say use 5w30).
#404
not sure what effect premix has on the deposits?
#406
I wasn't even reading BITOG five years ago, but I stand by my latest info that Mobil said somewhere that they use PAO and Ester blend now. Some other esters like Redline seem to have very good specs, but M1 is worldwide, has massive R & D, and Mercedes likes it.
I'm running M1 0w40 in my Dodge 4.7l with good results at 10k mile changes (specs say use 5w30).
I'm running M1 0w40 in my Dodge 4.7l with good results at 10k mile changes (specs say use 5w30).
#407
There are regular use products that would likely help as premix and would also enhance the lubricity of the fuel. I’d imagine a 2 cycle type premix wouldn’t serve to clean as well, but a good one shouldn’t deposit either. From as high as Blackstone is showing fuel readings on this site Id imagine fuel could be part of the problem too if its not completely burning. As you point out the Italian tune up won’t hurt at all and probably help preserve a cleaner engine. The same can be said for Ester/Group V based oils with the inherent solvency. They will serve to clean as they lubricate and typically burn cleaner from what I understand. Finally, a group II base stock is also more solvent than the Group III and certainly most group IVs so they are likely a safer bet if one doesn’t want to spend the money on the ester oils.
#408
Here's the link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1995447&page=1. The post was made in 2010. GC scans will also serve to refute the base stuck of most M1 formulas not including in majority Grp III.
XOM dumbed down their M1 to be able to sell alot.
"Even the German cars (hardest to lube) will barely notice, and the longlasting benefits can be utilized by more cars for a cleaner world fleet."
Cars and old people gotta die at some point or they're gonna stink up the place.
Last edited by 40w8; 05-04-2011 at 09:01 PM.
#409
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
And yet another report, running "diesel" oil for the second report in a row. Not much calcium, less than Castrol GTX (every earlier report). Lots more zinc and boron. Nothing else notable except low flashpoint. And viscosity finally held within limits. You guys can talk about deposits all you want, I'm sold on diesel oil. These engines aren't going to last the 300,000 miles that would be required for it to matter anyway.
I'm still not convinced Blackstone has a clue about Wankels. Chrome from apex seals? No. Not even from the housings. It's coming from eccentric shaft main bearings.
I'm still not convinced Blackstone has a clue about Wankels. Chrome from apex seals? No. Not even from the housings. It's coming from eccentric shaft main bearings.
#410
And yet another report, running "diesel" oil for the second report in a row. Not much calcium, less than Castrol GTX (every earlier report). Lots more zinc and boron. Nothing else notable except low flashpoint. And viscosity finally held within limits. You guys can talk about deposits all you want, I'm sold on diesel oil. These engines aren't going to last the 300,000 miles that would be required for it to matter anyway.
I'm still not convinced Blackstone has a clue about Wankels. Chrome from apex seals? No. Not even from the housings. It's coming from eccentric shaft main bearings.
I'm still not convinced Blackstone has a clue about Wankels. Chrome from apex seals? No. Not even from the housings. It's coming from eccentric shaft main bearings.
Probably an injector drip, but it needs to be fixed.
Maybe some Techron treatment for a tank or two or just take em out?
#412
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I really liked the Rotella and it's cheap. I was having a fuel dilution issue but that went away when I started premixing crazy amounts when my oil injectors failed. My oil consumption is awesome now with the new injectors and lines so I have backed way off on premixing the gas to about 4 oz per tank.
That UOA looks good though otherwise.
That UOA looks good though otherwise.
#413
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
All intervals except the last two were Castrol GTX 10W-30. I don't think it was the best based on the loss of viscosity. I think there were a couple of long road trips on that interval. I'm going to keep a better log of what I do on this and future intervals. (Which I should have been doing all along...)
#414
ok, I bit, and here's what I got.
XOM dumbed down their M1 to be able to sell alot.
"Even the German cars (hardest to lube) will barely notice, and the longlasting benefits can be utilized by more cars for a cleaner world fleet."
Cars and old people gotta die at some point or they're gonna stink up the place.
XOM dumbed down their M1 to be able to sell alot.
"Even the German cars (hardest to lube) will barely notice, and the longlasting benefits can be utilized by more cars for a cleaner world fleet."
Cars and old people gotta die at some point or they're gonna stink up the place.
I personally don’t see the reduction of PAO, AN, or Esters from M1 an overall reduction in its quality. Group IIIs have their benefits over PAO with the better additive solubility and a little better solvency. And the base stocks can be nearly as stable and pure it makes good sense to use them for most cars.
FWIW Ive not seen substantial enough wear reduction, if any at all, from systhetics over Group IIIs and IIs.
#415
I personally don’t see the reduction of PAO, AN, or Esters from M1 an overall reduction in its quality. Group IIIs have their benefits over PAO with the better additive solubility and a little better solvency. And the base stocks can be nearly as stable and pure it makes good sense to use them for most cars.
FWIW Ive not seen substantial enough wear reduction, if any at all, from systhetics over Group IIIs and IIs.
FWIW Ive not seen substantial enough wear reduction, if any at all, from systhetics over Group IIIs and IIs.
There were lots of good oils 40 years ago, so worrying about what the oil companies formulas might do to your engine is like day trading stocks instead of calming your money down in good mutual funds.
#417
Wankel, Im not being to disregard the merits of HDEO. I only argue from the deposits perspective for the sake of warranty or engine life. From what Ive seen and as you point out these rotaries will not last the life of an otto engine. So, my argument and thought was that if Mazda is so willing to replace these engines one may as well go with an approved oil. However, if I was tracking one of these Id go with HDEO or even better a niche HDEO like Redline or Renewable Lubricants Inc,
That being said I still dont see any benefit of HDEO over PCMO from the UOAs presented here, but I will go back and plot these all out.
If I was tracking mine (and I will be soon) and I didnt want the expense of a niche synthetic an HDEO 15w40 such as Rotella or Delvac would be my oil of choice. My calcs tell me that its 20$/month to run an niche synthetic over an over the counter synthetic. So, its a no brainer for me.
That being said I still dont see any benefit of HDEO over PCMO from the UOAs presented here, but I will go back and plot these all out.
If I was tracking mine (and I will be soon) and I didnt want the expense of a niche synthetic an HDEO 15w40 such as Rotella or Delvac would be my oil of choice. My calcs tell me that its 20$/month to run an niche synthetic over an over the counter synthetic. So, its a no brainer for me.
#418
It only pays to worry about these things when one is under warranty INMO. Me,.... I like the idea of a new engine shortly before Im out of warranty.
#419
I will post my Dyson of the factory fill in a week or 2 when I get the results. Tomorrow in goes RLI 30w HD.
#420
They'll let you run crap oil under warranty (5w20 dino) for 8 years/ 100k miles.
I had two RX3 rotaries failed under heat load issues not oiling issues.
the first was water seal leaks, and the second was that I was running at 7krpm on a hot day, and a apex seal cratered.
If I had rodded the rad when the new rebuild was put in, and had the presence of mind to premix, the second engine would have lasted.
#421
is adjusting valve lash
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hollywooood!
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
vr1 racing oil
those who may understand more in depth of oil characteristics, may need to look into what i'm about to say, and give some feedback. and since this IS just like the biggest oil thread, with whom people also like to test oils so i've decided to post them here.
so WHO, would consider if not have already been doing so, to run valvoline VR1 if they are running a midpipe.
lets cover some basics first. VR1 race oil, specifically states contains ZDDP, an anti-wear zinc additive that works very well for high stress and wear parts.
sounds great, right?
here's the downfall: zinc, when introduced to the catalytic converter, will slowly coat it and render it useless. which is bad news for our unique combustion process.
these type of oil are great for older style vehicles that don't run a fancy valvetrain system, OR a cat. so if u aren't running one (cat) then i don't see why this is a bad oil to try.
one warning though: high zinc content isn't something the air pollution police likes very much, so let me just keep this simple that this oil, is heavily tinted (flourescent dye, very close in color to a block tracer)
so WHO, would consider if not have already been doing so, to run valvoline VR1 if they are running a midpipe.
lets cover some basics first. VR1 race oil, specifically states contains ZDDP, an anti-wear zinc additive that works very well for high stress and wear parts.
sounds great, right?
here's the downfall: zinc, when introduced to the catalytic converter, will slowly coat it and render it useless. which is bad news for our unique combustion process.
these type of oil are great for older style vehicles that don't run a fancy valvetrain system, OR a cat. so if u aren't running one (cat) then i don't see why this is a bad oil to try.
one warning though: high zinc content isn't something the air pollution police likes very much, so let me just keep this simple that this oil, is heavily tinted (flourescent dye, very close in color to a block tracer)
#422
is adjusting valve lash
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hollywooood!
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my problem is this: i'd like to know how "immediate" the process of the converter being coated by zinc is, this way i'd would know if running a quart or two while on my high flow cat for a track day would have any canceling effect. like a compromise of sorts... easier on motor wear, but more on the cat.
hmmm... i'd imagine the more classic car owners and the more matured to have a good insight on this. but those who studies oil properties very well, your info is also appreciated.
thanx,
TM
hmmm... i'd imagine the more classic car owners and the more matured to have a good insight on this. but those who studies oil properties very well, your info is also appreciated.
thanx,
TM
#423
those who may understand more in depth of oil characteristics, may need to look into what i'm about to say, and give some feedback. and since this IS just like the biggest oil thread, with whom people also like to test oils so i've decided to post them here.
so WHO, would consider if not have already been doing so, to run valvoline VR1 if they are running a midpipe.
lets cover some basics first. VR1 race oil, specifically states contains ZDDP, an anti-wear zinc additive that works very well for high stress and wear parts.
sounds great, right?
here's the downfall: zinc, when introduced to the catalytic converter, will slowly coat it and render it useless. which is bad news for our unique combustion process.
these type of oil are great for older style vehicles that don't run a fancy valvetrain system, OR a cat. so if u aren't running one (cat) then i don't see why this is a bad oil to try.
one warning though: high zinc content isn't something the air pollution police likes very much, so let me just keep this simple that this oil, is heavily tinted (flourescent dye, very close in color to a block tracer)
so WHO, would consider if not have already been doing so, to run valvoline VR1 if they are running a midpipe.
lets cover some basics first. VR1 race oil, specifically states contains ZDDP, an anti-wear zinc additive that works very well for high stress and wear parts.
sounds great, right?
here's the downfall: zinc, when introduced to the catalytic converter, will slowly coat it and render it useless. which is bad news for our unique combustion process.
these type of oil are great for older style vehicles that don't run a fancy valvetrain system, OR a cat. so if u aren't running one (cat) then i don't see why this is a bad oil to try.
one warning though: high zinc content isn't something the air pollution police likes very much, so let me just keep this simple that this oil, is heavily tinted (flourescent dye, very close in color to a block tracer)
The rotary hasn't been officially tested to any specs, and we are only told to put in normal 5w20 dino.
Those light oil's have been tested by owners, and found to wear bearings which have hydrostatic pressure (oil pump), and zddp won't fix that in a low weight situation.
Soulution?
I don't think any oil out there will make much difference in longevity since your seals will crater first, but I'd run at least something Xw40, and I use M1 0w40.
Deposit control in the combustion chamber, and cat can be accomplished by making sure you never have misfire.
#424
my problem is this: i'd like to know how "immediate" the process of the converter being coated by zinc is, this way i'd would know if running a quart or two while on my high flow cat for a track day would have any canceling effect. like a compromise of sorts... easier on motor wear, but more on the cat.
hmmm... i'd imagine the more classic car owners and the more matured to have a good insight on this. but those who studies oil properties very well, your info is also appreciated.
thanx,
TM
hmmm... i'd imagine the more classic car owners and the more matured to have a good insight on this. but those who studies oil properties very well, your info is also appreciated.
thanx,
TM
BTW its the phos that is the major culprit to CAT damage, but since they are found together its safe to say zinc is part of the problem.
#425
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
The rotor gears would benefit a lot from ZDDP....
Never heard of a rotor gear failure, but cats fail daily.
Used to work for an oil refinery that used very expensive platinum/rhodium catalysts to hydro-crack oils, and wanted to maximize their life - the pumps, gearboxes and compressors used all kinds of expensive and exotic lubes, and oil changes were frequent (they ran 24/7 for two or three years straight.)
The plant had a huge tank to hold all this used oil, and it would have been much easier to just thow it all back in with the 'crude' but they had done the numbers - that tiny percentage of metallic additives would cost them big-time in catalyst life.
No, they paid a company to truck it away to a re-refiner who could clean it up and sell it as lubes (to someone else!)
Never heard of a rotor gear failure, but cats fail daily.
Used to work for an oil refinery that used very expensive platinum/rhodium catalysts to hydro-crack oils, and wanted to maximize their life - the pumps, gearboxes and compressors used all kinds of expensive and exotic lubes, and oil changes were frequent (they ran 24/7 for two or three years straight.)
The plant had a huge tank to hold all this used oil, and it would have been much easier to just thow it all back in with the 'crude' but they had done the numbers - that tiny percentage of metallic additives would cost them big-time in catalyst life.
No, they paid a company to truck it away to a re-refiner who could clean it up and sell it as lubes (to someone else!)