rreign

I have a small diagnostics handheld that I bought from Autozone awhile back and I just put my new pulleys on and decided to run a check with it. There are a few things I dont quite understand though. Here is the readouts I dont know

Short Term Fuel Trim__0.0%

Long Term Fuel Trim__0.8%

Short Term Fuel Trim 3 -100.6%

LongTerm Fuel Trim 4 - 100.6%

Fuel System 1 OPEN 1

Relative Throttle Position 4.3%

Command Throttle Actuator Control 6.6%

Accelerator Pedal Position B 32.5% , D 31.7% , E 20.7%

I have already tried searching for some of these and have not gotten the info I want. Are these NORMAL numbers? I got a CEL but it is for an EVAP Emissions Leak (very small) so I was just wondering. Any help would be great.

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

Did you do the 20 brake tap after turning the ignition to the run position ensuring that the oil pressure gauge did a sweep to show it reset the eccentric shaft position sensor?

G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY

iTrader: (8)

and 99% your small evap leak is your gas cap.. clear the code after you re tighten it. The rest of the stuff i have no idea but it would probably mean that you didnt reset all the sensors and the system is off.... kinda like timing is off because now its spinning faster than it was before.

rreign

I never would have thought of the gas cap or anything like that! I did the reset and deleted the code, everything is running smooth and perfect again. Thanks guys

TrochoidMagic

first 4 are the car's learned fuel curve... without guidelines, its a shot in the dark to explain it.

relative throttle position... where its currently sitting in idle and a service manual will tell you whats an acceptable range. but, no low idle so no problems.

and again, the rest are for the sensors on the gas pedals and such... and if you aren't having any cel's on, its good. and having a service manual will help you see what parameters it should be in.

if ur car is running fine without problems in those area, you needn't fuss with it.
as they are in acceptable range if anything else. =)

TrochoidMagic

for a drive-by-wire system, if you see something abnormal, like

-Relative Throttle Position 20%

and its coupled with really high idle...like a stuck gas pedal (like one of a cable throttle linkage) then its a clear analizes of a failed/stuck/jammed/ etc throttle plate.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Perfect.

Equally perfect.

Doesn't apply to the RX-8.

Doesn't apply to the RX-8.

You must have just started the car. This will switch to "closed" after a few seconds to a minute depending on the temperature.

This is the actual throttle position.

This is the percentage of throttle duty cycle that is being used to create the position above.

This is where your accelerator pedal position sensors are.

rreign

Well I had gotten some help on what to do about the CEL and stuff (which wasnt the point of this thread). but thanks man, you're the first person to explain those things to me (the actual point of the thread) i appreciate it.